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Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books Lower Big Quilcene River
The Big Quilcene Trail to Marmot Pass is one of the most popular trails in the Olympic National Forest. What many hikers don't realize is that it was once twice as long. The road delivering them to the trailhead severed it in two. Good news, though, the entire trail still exists, the eastern 6 miles now known as the Lower Big Quilcene Trail. And although not in the Buckhorn Wilderness, it's still quite wild in places. Much of the route runs through a rugged canyon cloaked in primeval forest. And while past logging has eaten away at the periphery, plenty of ancient groves grace the way.
Starting at an elevation of 1400 feet, the Lower Big Quilcene River Trail climbs a mere 1200 feet in its entire 6.2-mile journey. Besides making for an easy trek, the low elevation is ideal for an early-season hike. But if you wait until early summer, you'll be rewarded with blooming rhododendrons. The trail passes by old camp and shelter sites, testaments to when there was no shorter option to Marmot Pass. A good day-hike objective is Camp Jolley, 5 miles out. But hikers not intent on putting in that many miles can cut their hike in half by opting for Bark Shanty Camp. No matter how far you venture, the Lower Big Quilcene offers one of the best low-country valley hikes in the eastern Olympics. The trail starts high above the river on an old roadbed. Walking is fast and easy on this well-groomed and well-graded path. After a slight descent in the first mile the trail enters a steep-walled canyon. After another mile the trail finally meets up with the roaring river, crossing it on a good bridge. Along the rushing waterway and through beautiful groves of towering old growth, reach Bark Shanty Camp at 2.6 miles, a great place to stare at the rapids or cut some z's under an ancient tree. The trail continues, however, recrossing the river and heading farther up the valley. Just beyond the old wooden bridge is the western terminus of the Notch Pass Trail. Continue through a series of old rapidly recovering clear-cuts , and then at 4 miles enter the forest primeval once more. Keep your boots dry crossing a series of side creeks, and at 5 miles arrive at Camp Jolley. Take a break by bubbly Jolley Creek before happily making your way back to the trailhead.
Driving Directions:
From Quilcene drive US 101 south for 1.5 miles. (From Shelton follow US 101 north for 50.5 miles.) Turn right (west) onto Penny Creek Road. After 1.5 miles bear left onto Big Quilcene River Road (Forest Road 27). Drive 3 miles, coming to a junction. Continue right on FR 27 and after 0.4 mile turn left onto FR 27-080. Follow this narrow dirt road 0.5 mile to the trailhead. Privy available. Recent Trip Reports
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Lower Big Quilcene River
— Mar 04, 2012
— Jim
Day hike
Issues:
Snow on trail | Road to trailhead inaccessible
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We actually started by climbing up the Notch Trail and came down on to then Lower Big Quil trail.(We...
We actually started by climbing up the Notch Trail and came down on to then Lower Big Quil trail.(We spotted a car not far from the lower trailhead). The bridge is under construction and is several huge glue-lam beams but the decking has not been put on yet. We crossed under the bridge on a log jam. That would have been easy except for the ice and snow on the logs. The trip out was an arduous trip on account of the deep wet snow. When we got to the trailhead we discovered a "trail Closed" sign. We were surprised because there is nothing wrong with the trail, the bridge was the issue. Incidentally, we parked a mile or so from the lower trailhead on account of snow, but it was melting rapidly by the time we got out.
Lower Big Quilcene River
— Feb 11, 2012
— QuitaCoug
Day hike
Issues:
Bridge out
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FYI: Stopped by the ranger station in Quilcene on our way to The Dosewallips Saturday morning and wa...
FYI: Stopped by the ranger station in Quilcene on our way to The Dosewallips Saturday morning and was told by the ranger that the Lower Big Quilcene Trail will be closed until April in order to install the new bridges.
Lower Big Quilcene River
— Jan 06, 2012
— Bad Water
Day hike
Issues:
Blowdowns | Water on trail
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When we got to the bridge over the Big Quil below Bark Shanty Camp we met the guy who has contracted...
When we got to the bridge over the Big Quil below Bark Shanty Camp we met the guy who has contracted to replace the three bridges on this stretch of trail. He is hoping to get the work done in February because it requires a helicopter to deliver the glue-lam stringers and the Forest Service apparently won't allow helicopters in the area between Feb 28 and August 28, but weather will decide. Right now the bridges are compromised but still passable, but at some point (he wasn't sure when) they will be blown up to make way for the new ones, so it would be a good idea to check with the Quilcene ranger station before doing this hike in the near future.
There was a big tangle of recently downed trees across the trail just above Bark Shanty, but the bridge builder had his chain saw at work on them as we were making our way around them, and the way was clear by the time we came back. The WTA crew did a great job replacing the section of washed-out trail above the second crossing of the river. There is just one downed tree between there and Camp Jolley. There was a nice dusting of new snow on the trees but nothing more than that on the trail.
Lower Big Quilcene River
— Oct 14, 2011
— gsbarnes
Day hike
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Took the kids out to Dosewallips State Park on a day off school, and hiked the Lower Big Quilcene on...
Took the kids out to Dosewallips State Park on a day off school, and hiked the Lower Big Quilcene on a Friday. Nothing too interesting to report: no hazards driving in or on the hike, although we only went a little beyond Bark Shanty, headed a little ways up the Notch Pass Trail, then turned around.
The much-mentioned bridge is fine for hikers (and mountain bikers, if they carry their bikes), but was being worked on by one guy when we were there. He was mostly measuring, not building, so who knows when it will be done. The trail beyond the bridge was washed out (last winter?), but a reroute is there and pretty easy to find.
Lower Big Quilcene River
— Aug 07, 2011
— Cheetarzan
Day hike
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Early start, one other car in the lot.
Gorgeous weather, excellent trail, very nice area.
Even the...
Early start, one other car in the lot.
Gorgeous weather, excellent trail, very nice area. Even the road was good. Wildflowers waning, no bugs. Didn't see another person until we got to Bark Shanty when two bicycles rolled in. The bridge just beyond was constructed from two large logs. One of the logs has broken so the bridge can no longer support horses. Hikers will be safe if cautious. On the way out, passed three groups of two people, one with three dogs, unleashed 50 yards ahead of their humans. None of these groups had logged in. |
![]() Big Quilcene River. Photo by Bob and Alex.
2010, 2011
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