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Copyright © Craig Romano/The Mountaineers Books Upper South Fork Skokomish River
Venture up a valley as wild as any in the adjacent national park. Marvel at the sheer height, girth, and biomass of some of the biggest trees you'll ever lay eyes on. Watch in awe as the churning, tumbling Upper South Fork Skokomish crashes and squeezes through a narrow box canyon. And while the Upper South Fork lacks federal wilderness protection, this area is nothing but pure Olympic wilderness.
From the large parking area the Upper South Fork Skokomish River Trail heads north and the Lower South Fork Trail takes off south. Though the lower trail is not a bad option, make sure you're on the Upper South Fork path. Start by hiking 0.5 mile on a grassy old roadbed to a small clearing that once served as the trailhead. Once on bonafide trail enter a world dominated by a turbulent river and towering conifers. In 0.75 mile you'll emerge on a narrow shelf, river thundering but nowhere in view. Carefully creep to the edge of the trail and peer straight down. Directly below you the South Fork careens through a tight chasm, its booming waters occasionally interrupted by the high-pitched call of a rapids-loving dipper. At 1.2 miles cross Rule Creek on a big log bridge. Shortly afterward span the South Fork on another big log bridge. Climbing above the tumultuous waterway, weave through a procession of old-growth giants that'll leave your neck sore from constantly cocking it upward. Why this area lacks wilderness protection is, as you can now attest, not for lack of qualifying criteria. During the free-for-all logging frenzy of the 1970s and '80s, Big Timber had their axes trained on these beauties. When you return home, log a request to your senators about giving these arboreal elders some much deserved respect by permanently protecting them. Cross numerous side streams (plan on wet feet in early season) before recrossing the South Fork at 2.25 miles. As of 2009 the washed-out bridge here has not been replaced. Use extreme caution fording if you choose to continue. The gravel bars here make for a good lounging area. Continue up the valley through mossy glens and tranquil flats, and right alongside the ever-impressive river. At about 3.25 miles the trail pulls away from the river and begins climbing. The tread gets rockier and brushier. At 4 miles you'll come to Startup Creek. A good spot to turn around-beyond, the trail deteriorates to not much more than a way path on its rugged journey to Sundown Pass in Olympic National Park. Enjoy lunch by the tumbling waterway before heading back.
Driving Directions:
From Shelton travel north on US 101 for 7 miles turning left (west) at milepost 340 onto Skokomish Valley Road (signed "Skokomish Recreation Area"). Follow this good paved road for 5.5 miles, bearing right at a V intersection onto Forest Road 23. In 1 mile the pavement ends; in another 1.5 miles it resumes; and in another mile enter Olympic National Forest. Continue for 6 miles on FR 23 to a signed junction. Bear left on now-unpaved FR 23, proceeding 4.4 miles. Turn right onto FR 2361 and follow it for 5 miles to its end at the trailhead. Recent Trip Reports
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Day hike
Issues:
Bridge out
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I lucked out big time. Planned for bad weather but got perfect temp but cloudy day, really a great d...
I lucked out big time. Planned for bad weather but got perfect temp but cloudy day, really a great day for an Olympic hike. The trail was great, good shape. The bridge that has been out for a while is still out, there is a large log to cross on but very slippery. All the crossings, even the one that didn't have water, were extremely, insanely slippery. Way more than I expected and I figured they were pretty slick so be very careful, more then you would think. Most of the bridges are the worst, just hang on and take it slow when using them. Really beautiful old grow and there was no one on it although it might be busier on the weekends. When looking for the trail head, go to the back of the parking lot. Elevation didn't feel like much at all. Have fun out there!
Upper South Fork Skokomish River
— Sep 17, 2010
— Chris
Day hike
Issues:
Bridge out | Overgrown
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Great hike with some big trees. Don't miss the giant Western Red Cedar that split in half and fell ...
Great hike with some big trees. Don't miss the giant Western Red Cedar that split in half and fell across the Skokomish. This is at the first Pack Animal Sign that is seen on the trail near the 2mi point. Don't go past this pack animal sign :-) Really cool hike.
Upper South Fork Skokomish River
— Aug 19, 2010
— Moby
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
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On a "marine layer" day, The Boy, The English Teacher and I set out to explore the upper South Fork ...
On a "marine layer" day, The Boy, The English Teacher and I set out to explore the upper South Fork Skokomish Trail. By the time we reached the trailhead, clouds had burned off and we had perfect sunny upper-60's hiking weather. With only a few hours available, we wandered up trail 873.1 to the Upper SF Skokomish crossing (2.2 miles) and spent an hour lunching and playing near what is more like a creek at this point in the year. The Boy and The Teacher used old logs to build a bridge to a large rock near shore, but wading turned out to be the best solution (once the toes went completely numb). I did a little casting in an effort to present my usual offering to the stream rocks (one spinner per trip is my limit), but I shook loose the only rock I snagged, and thus broke even on the day. This high up, where the SF is fairly small, there is a lot more fishin' than catchin'. This is a beautiful lunch spot, where one could spend an entire lazy afternoon. But eventually, our schedule (and the need for the traditional post-hike ice cream) called.
The log bridge (with railing!) across Rule Creek is in fine shape. The subsequent (nearly immediate) crossing of the SF at the "slump" area provides some choices. The nearest spanning log is sturdy enough, but barked and possibly a little shaky for some. Following the stock crossing signs takes you downstream to a wide spanning "tree chunk", which is easier to cross than it is to get to, but a good choice for those worried about traction. The log bridge at the Upper Crossing (where we stopped) is wide and sturdy, with helpful steps chopped into either side. Nice camps lie nearby hidden in the trees just before you get to the Crossing, camps we hiked right by on the way in. Nice day, nice stroll; 4.4 miles r.t., maybe 300 feet gain, counting the minor ups and downs along the way. Overnight
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Blowdowns | Bridge out | Snow on trail | Bugs
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Needing to escape from life on a hot weekend, I went with a friend up to Lake Sundown for a night....
Needing to escape from life on a hot weekend, I went with a friend up to Lake Sundown for a night. We didn't escape the heat (ugh), but didn't see any other people from one hour into the hike until a couple hours before finishing, so it was nice to be alone in the mountains.
The trail is generally in good shape, although there are some trees across it throughout. The first bridge across the S. Fork Skokomish is completely gone, but there's a bit of a trail from the horse crossing sign to a large tree across the river. Or you can rock-hop, or wade. Crossing Startup Creek is a wade or clamber across a boulder and tree. Around 3000', just below the first meadow, a large tree is down, laying straight down the trail - it's easiest to climb up on it and walk along the trunk for 50 or 100', then walk alongside it until the trail emerges from beneath it. The meadows are nice - if you're careful you can cross them without getting wet, as they are starting to dry up, and there are lots of elephants' heads blooming, and frogs hopping and such. Even a few shooting stars remaining. And a pond full of pollywogs. At the largest meadow, just cross to the very farthest point to pick up the trail again. The last mile to the pass is kind of unpleasantly steep, especially in the heat. There are a couple snow patches before the pass, but nothing difficult, and nice ponds and streams and meadows. Dropping down from the pass to the Six Ridge Trail, there are a couple blowdowns, a lot of elk tracks, and some moderately steep, but suncupped, snow patches. These require a little care. There are a few more snow patches on Six Ridge Trail to Lake Sundown, but again, not difficult, just wet and sloppy (when I was there). No snow at the lake at all. The outlet stream requires knee-deep wading to get to the campsites. Quite pretty at the lake, and the wet meadows at the head of the lake are fantastic - tons of flowers of many sorts, a bear ( both in the evening and in the morning), about 20 elk (lots of young ones), and a nice swimming beach with evening sun. There are lots of fish in the lake as well. Not much blooming down low - foamflowers, salal, lots of nice twinflower; still some vanilla leaf and starflowers as well. As you climb, you get a lot more - prime summer dark woods flowers - 3 species of wintergreen blooming in one 30' stretch, pinedrops, pinesap, Corallorhiza, rattlesnake plantain, Clintonia, false lily of the valley etc. Higher still there is tall larkspur, buttercups, shooting stars, elephants' heads, the first few wood lilies, various Epilobia, bog orchids, a few Trillia still, yellow violets, pale violet violets up high, phlox, meadowrue, LOTS of white Erythronium lilies, a couple yellow ones (not open yet), blueberries, Mertensia, a white waterleaf, a few lupines, columbine, more false bugbane than I think I've ever seen, and pink heather. All in all, a very nice hike, although a bit steep in places for a hot day. Bugs were annoying a few places and times of day, but certainly not unbearable, and I never used repellent.
Upper South Fork Skokomish River, Lower South Fork Skokomish River
— Jun 19, 2010
— Schryder
Day hike
Features:
Wildflowers blooming
Issues:
Blowdowns | Bridge out | Mud/Rockslide | Washouts
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We started out on the "Upper South Fork Skokomish River" trail. The bridge over the Skokomish is sti...
We started out on the "Upper South Fork Skokomish River" trail. The bridge over the Skokomish is still out, about a mile and a half up. We walked to that point but weren't interested in fording the river and not confident enough for the log, plus we had our dog. Trail basically in nice shape to that point.
We returned to the parking area and took the trail signed "Lower South Fork Skokomish River" towards Laney camp. This is not the "Lower South Fork Skokomish" trail from the guidebooks. That trail starts on the other side of the river. However, this is a nice little trail with many wildflowers blooming: tons of columbine, also indian paintbrush, bunchberry, thimbleberry, bleeding hearts, queens cup, bear grass(?) and several others we couldn't identify. Also tiger lily and purple columbine along the road in. Additionally, we saw a great variety of very large slugs. The trail got very faint after a mile and a half or so. There were some nice views up river from a bluff the trail went over. We only saw one other person. All in all a nice hike. |
![]() Big trees along the Upper South Fork Skokomish River Trail. Photo by Shane.
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