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Point to point trip from Sunrise to Longmire 8/23 - 8/28. The day before our trip we picked up our permit (very minimal line at Longmire; managed to find parking despite part of the lot being closed for paving) and dropped off our exit car. Rangers were super helpful with water sources, bridge crossings, and berry locations.
We took the Northern Trail (Fire Creek CG) to Spray Park (Cataract Valley CG), detoured for a dip at Mowich Lake (highly recommend), then stayed on the WT til Longmire (other sites being S Mowich, N Puyallup, and Devil’s Dream). Water was not an issue thanks to rain the prior week, with the exception of the long stretch north of South Mowich. We had close to zero bugs the entire time, Devil’s Dream included. No snow or need for spikes at all. Days were not too sweltering and nights were not cold. It sprinkled a bit but nothing torrential.
Trail is overall in fantastic condition and easy to follow. We likely had fortunate timing because we passed many freshly sawn blowdowns (thank you trail crew!!) and hardly had to deal with any. River crossings were, for the most part, navigable as long as you keep your eyes out for trail signs - boot path, flag tape, cairns, etc. We did no rock hopping but also had many crossings in the mornings. A footbridge on S Mowich was the only one that truly sketched us out.
The combined ascent and mileage of some days (5000’ gains and 14 miles) completely gassed us out with the heavy packs (37 and 41 lbs). Other days were great.
Despite the challenge, the views, wildlife, solitude, and geological history of the area all made it ridiculously worth it. Absolutely stunning area - even the forested parts are all so varied and beautiful. We were continually awe-struck.
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SR165/FAIRFAX BRIDGE OVER CARBON RIVER IS NOW PERMANENTLY CLOSED.
Unfortunately WSDOT's worst fears were realized as the support columns for the bridge are actually starting to buckle, forcing a permanent closure of the bridge along SR165. Just announced today.
So no more road access to the NW side of Mount Rainier National Park until the bridge is physically replaced or the road re-routed, which could possibly take years.
More info:
https://wsdot.wa.gov/about/news/2025/103-year-old-sr-165-carbon-river-fairfax-bridge-permanently-closed
https://www.thenewstribune.com/news/local/community/puyallup-herald/ph-news/article304983576.html
https://komonews.com/news/local/fairfax-bridge-mount-rainier-national-park-permanently-closes-carbon-river-safety-concerns-inspections
https://www.king5.com/article/traffic/traffic-news/fairfax-bridge-mount-rainier-national-park-closed-safety/281-d67d2c1e-e563-4b08-93ef-bf08db16218a
Yearly traffic stats:
https://irma.nps.gov/Stats/SSRSReports/Park%20Specific%20Reports/Traffic%20Counts?Park=MORA
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As I write this, the road to Mowich Lake is closing for the winter season - Monday 10/14/2024 @ 9:00 AM, meaning you cannot drive up to this trailhead until next year (around July 2025)
Getting to the Spray Park trailhead you have to go by the Tolmie Lookout trailhead, and that parking area was packed. We pulled into the Spray Park TH shortly after 9 am Saturday and we easily found parking not far from the toilets. Saw a handful of tents and ppl camping at the campground, which was at the trailhead.
We chatted with a few hikers saying they were going the backway up to Spray Park, through Knapsack Pass. We considered going this route, but since none of us have hiked Spray Park prior, we opted to go the more traditional way. Next time though, I would love to try the "backway", which on Gaia looks to be an unmaintained trail, but from the sounds of it, is pretty well traveled, and you can make this a small loop hike.
Trail: we saw minimal ppl on trail. Which was snow free, not muddy, and easy to navigate. We stopped at Eagle Cliff, which has an amazing view of Mt Rainier, and also stopped at Spray Falls, which was worth the off shoot. We took the junction up to the saddle between Mt Pleasant and Hessong Rock. The trail up to the saddle is steep, maybe 1/2 mile 400 ft gain. We had the saddle to ourselves for a while, and ate lunch up their with a grand view of Mt Rainier. we saw some pikas.
The hike back was way faster than the hike out. We hiked out and back. My Garmin watch clocked 3 hours 40 min moving time, and about 7.5 miles 2k+ ft gain.
Beautiful hike!