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My partner, our dog and I headed out for a 2-night birthday backpacking trip to spot some early season larches around the Sawtooth Lakes Loop with an additional stop to Sunrise Lake.
After reading a few recent trip reports, we decided to start and end our trip from the Foggy Dew Trailhead. We drive a low clearance car (VW Golf) and it sounded like both the Summer Blossom and Crater Creek Trailheads were going to be a bit too rough. Thankfully, Foggy Dew was in fantastic shape — short, smooth gravel road accessible by any car. There were only about 7 other cars when we pulled up around 1 pm. There is a toilet at the trailhead which was currently clean/stocked but there is a note outside saying that it is not maintained after Sept. 30 so ymmv.
TH to Sunrise Lake: The hike up Foggy Dew is consistently uphill along the river with some bright yellow colors coming through in the understory. Once we made it into Merchant’s Basin the colors reeeally started to pop, and it only got better from there! Larches are all golden starting at 7,000 feet and will probably start peaking next weekend. We hiked up to Sunrise Lake for our first night and it was aglow with golden larches.
Sunrise Lake to Cooney Lake: On day 2 we woke up at sunrise and climbed up the switchbacks to the pass above the lake. This was the worst section of trail we encountered but it was still fine. A bit narrow and rocky in places but generally easy to follow. The next stretch of trail up toward Boiling Lake was lovely and mostly above tree line, also with great fall colors throughout. I’m not very good as IDing tracks, but we did also see some pretty large, fresh paw prints on the dusty trails along this stretch.
We stopped at Boiling Lake for lunch and then headed up and over the pass to Eagle Lake. Ran into a few friendly motorbikers here (our dog was pretty spooked by them!). From here we descended allll the way down to the junction with Martin Creek and then headed right back uphill to Cooney Lake. The Cooney Lake basin was absolutely stunning and once again filled with larches. We also had the entire lake to ourselves that night!
Conney Lake to TH: It’s a quick jaunt down to the trailhead from here using the Martin Creek trail. Not too much to write home about! Trail is in great shape with good grade and all junctions are well signed. We made it down in just under 3 hours.
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Fabulous overnight backpacking trip starting at the Foggy Dew trailhead. I camped at Merchants basin and hiked to Sunrise lake the next morning. Walking through the golden larch trees was magical. Such an amazing trip.
The way up the trail, I saw one hiker (fisherman/hunter), 7 mountain bikers and 2 dirt bikers. It is a multi use trail that allows everyone to have a wonderful time.
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The Foggy Dew Creek trail is in good condition, with no blowdowns or significant stream crossings. Most is in partial shade. There are four streams along the way for easy water. From the junction at 5 miles (6,000 feet elevation) to Merchant's Basin at 6 miles (6,800 feet elevation), the trail has about half a dozen trees across the trail, all easily passed by hikers and stock. From Merchant's Basin to Sunrise Lake, there are about 10 trees across the trail, again all easily passed by hikers.
At Sunrise Lake, there were patches of deep snow (>3 feet deep). Mosquitoes were numerous and constant except during strong breezes. Many (smaller) cutthroat in the lake.
The trail from Merchant's Basin north to the ridge overlooking Cooney Lake (and Angel's Staircase) is snowfree and has no shade. Some wildflowers are present but are on the wane. The trail down to Cooney Lake has some snow patches easily crossed without traction aids. We observed three bicyclists cross them, walking their bikes. Mosquitoes at Cooney were as numerous as at Surprise Lake. Many fish in the lake. Two tents present on Saturday mid-day.
No motorbikes encountered over four-day trip. Motorbikes briefly were audible in the distance when at Cooney Lake on Saturday.
For readers in future years, snow lingered later than usual in 2022 due to the cool and wet/snowy spring.
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We hiked up Foggy Dew trail the day before a 50k trail run and benefited from them clearing it up. Thank you! 😊 We camped in stunning Merchant’s Basin 2 nights, exploring snow levels on the middle day.
Sunrise lake is snow free but the trail up to and all around it are mostly snow covered. We contoured around the top of Merchant’s Basin instead. A couple snow fields made it a bit tricky keeping to trail and have long /dangerous slides so we recommend traction and poles to get across.
Trail up to Deadman’s Pass is steep with lots of snow. We hoped to make a loop back down Navarro trail 424, but heard that a trail runner had been unable to find the junction with the Navarro Crest trail using maps and gps. (Hey “Lost Trails” this would be an excellent loop! The bottom junction with Foggy Dew is wide, well maintained and signed.)
We looped the other direction instead. The steep north slope between Merchant’s Basin and Cooney lake is full of at least hip deep snow. Glissading down was slow but possible. Cooney lake is 90% iced over with lots of snow around it , although bare spots could be camp sites in a pinch. Trail around the lake is mostly under snow. Once below the outlet the trail is mostly clear and easy to follow.
Seems like June hiking this July! 😉
5 people found this report helpful
This was a great bookend for last spring's attempt to get to Merchants Basin. That trip was abandoned after 4 miles of climbing over, under and around countless blowdowns. Many thanks to those who expended the huge effort required to open up this trail. The only impediment was a deadfall in the meadow just heading up the Sunrise Lake Trail and this was a painless walk around. (It was a large diameter snag however.)
We missed the larch in full display but their still yellow needles covering the ground gave a wonderful atmosphere to the day. Similarly the meadows of Merchants Basin had the subtle glow of late fall. The advantage of this late season hike was having the entire 15 mile trip to ourselves.
I want to give special mention to the sublime old-growth hemlock forest at the lower end of Merchants Basin. After a short steep climb out of the lower valley, the trail enters a stand of ancient hemlock and true fir. These inspiring pockets of old growth are increasingly hard to find with so many catastrophic fires in recent years. I would urge those who pass this way to take a moment and reflect on these majestic alpine elders.
This hike was notable as the only trip I have taken recently where I did not pass through any area recently touched by wildfire. Most of the Foggy Dew valley is filled dead and dying lodgepole. A conflagration waiting to happen. One wonders if land managers could find ways to reduce these fuels with off-season burns or otherwise. We are realizing that fire is natural part of the Eastern Washington landscape, but waiting for lightning to ignite fires in the heat of July carries huge costs.