Left the family at home to do a little ""research"" in the North Cascades--one of the perks of being the editor of a local hiking magazine published by a non-profit trails association. Arrived at the Hannegan trailhead early morning on Friday before the 4th of July weekend and only 3 cars were to be seen at the trailhead. The views just keep getting better and better as the trail ascends to Hannegan Pass--Mount Ruth with its massive cap of white snow, Mount Sefrit and scores of other peaks high above the Ruth Creek drainage. Trail is in good shape and mud-free. Heaps of wildflowers along the way--columbine, tiger lily, and salmonberry among them. Quite a few nettles, too--long pants are a good idea for the first couple miles. Hannegan Pass is snow free--and starting to get buggy. Plus, views from the pass itself are a bit lackluster, so decided to head up Hannegan Peak. Hung my food, stashed my heavy pack (bears have been very active in this area, according to the rangers) and bounded up the peak. The faint trail is steep but in good shape and almost completely snow free to the summit. On top, absolutely massive views of some of the craggiest, gnarly, glaciated peaks of the North Cascades. Beyond the pass, the route does a few ups and downs, enters North Cascades National Park (no dogs past here, remember) before skirting the edge of a circular basin prior to Egg Lake and Silesia camps. There are still some relatively good-sized snow patches prior to Egg Lake, so it wouldn't be a bad idea to have an ice ax handy or at least some trekking poles for insurance. Arrived at Egg Lake weary but happy to be in such fabulous country. Had the tiny camp above the crystaline blue lake all to myself. (Crowd control is helped by the fact that the Park Service requires first-come-first-served reservations from the ranger station at Glacier for all overnights in the area). Next day, hoofed it up to the lookout on Copper Ridge (it's a heck of a climb, and hard to believe the elevation is only about 6,200 feet). Be sure to stop in and say hi to Tony, the park service ranger stationed there for the season (not a bad job, considering the views from his summer home). The trail down from the lookout to Copper Lake is about 50 percent under snow cover, but the route on the ridge is fairly easy to spot (just make sure to catch the switchback behind you if you find you've come to what looks like trail's end overlooking Copper Lake). Along the way, spotted a ptarmigan hen with her brood of 10 chicks. She did a valiant job of trying to scare/distract me from her little ones and I gave her a wide berth to avoid stressing her out too much (I can definitely sympathize with the harried and overworked parent!). There are three fine camps at the lake, and when I arrived in late afternoon, the low clouds were lifting the curtain on views to the glaciers of Whatcom Peak. At first light the next morning, skies were clear as glass, and the monstrous, rugged peaks of the North Cascades were out in their finest: Mount Redoubt, Bear Mountain, and Whatcom Peak and the Pickets all being their sublime selves in the distance. Thick shag of western hemlock forest carpets the valley below all the way to the Canadian border and beyond. One note if you're planning to do the return loop down to the Chilliwack River from Copper Lake--ran into a party coming up from there and they reported the trail was extremely brushy and didn't recommend it. But if you're not immune to some bushwhacking, you might give it a try. The cable car further down trail is out of commission, but the ford is apparently doable (but try to do it in the morning, when snowmelt is at its lowest). Skipping the full loop myself, I broke camp after a quick breakfast and savored suberb peak-spotting back at the lookout: Shuksan, Baker, the fang of Slesse, more of the Pickets in the distance. The views are some of the most magnificent I've seen anywhere in the world. Made a relatively quick hike of the 12 or so miles back to the trailhead, arriving back to the car about 2:30. On the return, saw lots of folks out for the day, and the weather was indeed fabulous. Back at the trailhead, the number of cars had blossomed to about two dozen. If it's solitude you're after, definitely go midweek. But even if you only have the weekend free, don't let that deter you from one of the most magnificent trails in the state.