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Departed the Lily Basin Horse trailhead on Thursday about 1:20pm. The trail is is in excellent condition. There is one large downed tree about 2 miles in but is easily navigated around (or hopped over for the more limber). Quite a few Huckleberries along this portion of the trail. You're in the shade for most of the way until about the 4.5 mile mark. As mentioned in the Trail Description the washout at about the 5 mile mark is pretty much the only place where you need to watch your step (especially with a pack on). On the plus side it's a good place to get water if you're running short. When you start heading down at the Angry Mountain Trail junction the trail is a bit loose and sandy for the first 50-80 ft.
There are good camping spots at both ends of the lake although the ones at the North end (the wider end) are generally more desirable (more room to spread out). There were a huge number of wild blueberries heading down to the creek just East of the North end camp sites. The bugs at Heart Lake were mostly flies. A little annoying at times but not too bad. Hardly any mosquitos. We saw a heard of mountain goats up around Johnson Peak Saturday early evening.
We did a day hike to Hawkeye Point and Goat Lake. No trail issues and great views. Goat Lake is like a small village. Was hard to tell how many people were actually camped there since a lot of them were on day hikes but I'd have to guess it was over 50. It is really scenic but if you're looking for a bit of solitude it's not the place to go. At Heart Lake there was only one group of 2 at the lake when we arrived on Thursday. On Saturday there were probably about 7 groups at the North end and around 3 at the South end. As with most popular areas they start to fill up on the weekends. Looked like just about everyone was departing Sunday morning.
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We did a 4 day hike in via the Lily Basin trail and out to Packwood Lake. I had been on the Lily Basin trail maybe 8 years ago. At that time a recent washout had left few exposed boot tracks up a pumice slope from a stream about 6 miles from trailhead. We turned back there. This time there were good tracks up that rise. The second day, after traveling up and around the Lily Basin cirque, we went over the ridge to the south side. The flowers were spectacular to a little past Goat Lake. That area is marred by many extemporaneous trails. Some signing to denote the main trail and closing of others would help recovery. Despite that, the lake basin is great. Flowers were past their prime in Snowgrass Flats.
The 3rd day we ascended that basin and followed the Crest Trail. Once you cross the ridge you face a, maybe 1/2 mile, traverse of the north face of the Goat Rocks. It's a sketchy footpath through pumice and an old snow patch on a steep hillside. It's far riskier than the subsequent "Knife Ridge". That's very up and down, but with a good trail. We went left the Crest Tail on the Coyote Trail where it branches from the crest trail. It's well signed, but we missed the trail takeoff at 1st.
From Packwood Saddle we decided to descend to the lake on the Upper Lake Creek Trail. It looked like a long time since this trail has been maintained. There were many downed logs over it from the Saddle to the Lake-they required a lot of detours and climb over and unders. There were several good campsites where the trail 1st approached the river.
Once at the lake on the final day, the trail was in good condition all the way to the car. We passed lots of lovely lakeside campsites.
A few flies and rare mosquitos.
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Hiked 12 miles round trip (we decided not to descend down to Heart Lake). There were about half dozen vehicles on the road near the trailhead when we arrived at 10am. Saw 4 groups of backpackers. Trail was a bit overgrown but no big deal. Absolutely beautiful wildflowers — too many varieties to count! The hillsides were blanketed with Indian paintbrush. A few spots of the trail had loose rock and a steep drop off. Lily Basin was absolutely gorgeous. Enjoyed some of the best berries I ever tasted!!
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I did the loop on the Goat Ridge trail to Lily Basin to Snowgrass flats, with some small detours. The road in is washboarded in parts and has some small-ish potholes, but any car can do it.
The Goat Ridge trail up to the Lily Basin trail is essentially snow free, except for two small patches that are easy to cross on the north side of the Goat Ridge lookout. Lily Basin is also essentially snow free from that junction to Hawkeye point, but there's a literal 6 foot wall of snow on the ridge after that. It's easy to get to the first "peak" of Hawkeye point, but to get to the second part you'll need to cross a decent amount of snow with exposure.
My plan was to camp at Heart Lake, so I found a way up the wall of snow, but the other side was even worse. Essentially all of the Lily Basin trail was snow covered, but it looked snow free near the lake itself. If you're trying to do this, prepare to spend at least a mile sidehilling across snow fields and bring better snow equipment than the one trekking pole I had.
Since Heart Lake was out, I went to Goat Lake. There were lots of options for camping at the top of Jordan Basin, but they all looked very exposed to the wind. A lot of the trail from Goat Ridge to Goat Lake was snow covered, but there was a well worn path across them and they all felt solid. Goat Lake itself is completely snow covered, with 4 campsites snow free. A few of the sites could have multiple tents, and it looked like a few more sites would be snow free soon.
From Goat Lake to Snowgrass flats there was less snow but the bridges were much sketchier. A few of them are probably melted out already, the rest should be viewed with extreme skepticism. It looked like there were plenty of camp sites along here.
There's nothing much to report about the trails at lower elevation and in the trees. There were bugs, but not too bad, and a few trees down but also not too bad. The trails were otherwise in good condition.
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Attempted to make our way to this trail head Saturday and had to turn around 2.5 miles up the 10 mile unpaved FR48. Unsure if it experienced a particularly brutal winter, but the road is in awful shape-- probably one of the worst I've ever driven on. Would only attempt to go up if you have a very high clearance vehicle (my CR-V did not cut it).