When our plans to summit Mount Adams were dashed (thanks, COVID!), we went looking for a day hike that was open, accessible, not overcrowded, but still epic. Loving Goat Rocks but not wanting to brave the snowy drive to Berry Patch or the crowds at Packwood Lake, we settled on Lily Basin.

As noted in previous trip reports, the road has a deep washout furrow on a steep uphill just past the quarry. In a full-sized 4wd truck with extra clearance we felt like we barely made it. There is also a medium-small tree down about a mile from the trailhead which we were able to limb with a knife and drive over. (Gotta start bringing a chainsaw!) Snow on the road was not a problem.

On the trail, there were patches of snow the whole way with long sections of dirt in between. There were maybe a half-dozen major blowdowns to crawl over. We donned crampons about 2/3 of the way up when the snow became regular. We brought snowshoes as well, but the snow was solid enough that we didn't use 'em.

We got decent Rainier views in various spots, but we really wanted to see Adams. After pushing hard up some snowfields around mile 4 (?) (all traces of the trail buried by now, just going straight up) we finally got into some sub-alpine high spots with amazing views of Adams, Hood, St. Helens, Rainier, and of course Johnson Peak looming large and close. The green-blue waters of Packwood Lake could be seen through the trees as well.

We got a really late start so it was getting late by then and we had to turn around. Not sure how doable the Johnson traverse section would have been with all that snow anyway.

All in all a great hike with beautiful views!

We started at Berry Patch up Goat Ridge Trail. The trail was in good shape, a climb but not technical.  It's narrow but not like a ledge so no fear of heights issues.  Much of the beginning is in the trees, but we were treated to a fantastic view of Mount Rainier (I think).  The first campsite we saw was 3 miles in but no discernable water that we saw.  There a few more sites at about 4 miles, isolated and a bit exposed, but there was a good water source in the vicinity.  We kept going as the spots were full.  

The last ascent to the peak at 6650' was kind of brutal with the overnight packs, but would have just been fun on a day hike.  The trail is good, just some "step ups" that feel a bit dicey on these old knees, and we were feeling fatigued after 3 hrs and a gain of 2300', the last little bit at a 37% grade.

It's a gradual descent along Lily Basin Trail to Goat Lake, which is amazing in it's unreal teal green/blue color.  There are campsites in this area, but they are exposed.  We knew rain was coming in during the night, and it was cooler and windy in this area.  As we moved away from the lake, the ridge blocked the wind a bit.  About a 1/4 away from the lake, campsites are allowed to have campfires.  We were concerned they would all be full, but had no trouble getting a site at 2pm.  There is water at the falls below Goat Lake and a several tricklers down from the ridge joining the main creek.  Side note, we had trouble with the campfire.  There is dead wood that was just very dense and did not burn well, and there was dead wood that was too wet.  We had good fire starter material for a 30 minute fire but couldn't keep it going.  

We took a quick trip down Lily Basin to Snowgrass and went left up to the PCT, just to set foot on the iconic trail.  

We packed out Sunday in the rain.  There is so much to explore this could easily be a two day camp trip.  Hawkeye Ridge, Old Snowy  and Knife Ridge are all great side trips to explore.  

I would note that there are a lot of side trails to campsites that sometimes obscure the main trail.  For the most part, the trail is always well marked when you have junctions with other trails.  The trail to Berry Patch is identified as the Horse Trail.  We were tired and chose wrong and ended up at Snowgrass and had to double back.  

Great place, highly recommended.  Saw goats far off, marmots and some gorgeous birds. 

CAUTION: Just past the rock quarry entrance, six miles along FR48, the road has a lateral rut across a steep slope which makes it impassable for some vehicles. (See fourth photo below.) High clearance and 4WD or AWD are strongly recommended. Horse trailers are unlikely to get through. If in doubt, stop near the quarry and walk 100 yards ahead to inspect the rutted slope. This may save you backing up on a one-lane curved road, over a blind hill.

The Lily Basin trail is somewhat of a misnomer. It starts at 4200 feet and follows a ridge to the east and southeast, eventually curving around to the southwest and a junction with the Angry Mountain trail at 6200 feet. That curve goes around Lily Basin, which is about 1500 feet below the trail to the west. 1500 feet above the trail to the east is Johnson Peak. So you don’t really even come close to the Basin.

The first part is overgrown and brushy, with numerous scratchy huckleberry bushes. The section of trail that passes below Johnson Peak has numerous seeps, which mostly just make the trail muddy. There were a couple streams large enough to filter water from, even this late in the season. At 5.1 miles, there was a single camp site near one of those streams. This section of the trail is out of the forest and therefore not brushy.

There was also an exposed bluff camp site at 6.0 miles, but no water nearby. At 6.2 miles is the signed junction with the Angry Mt. Trail. The map shows a 90 degree left turn to continue on the Lily Basin Trail toward Heart Lake. Simply continue straight until a switchback, and then you are heading southeast toward the lake, even though you can’t see it. The unmarked junction at 6.6 miles is to Heart Lake (right). You are allowed to camp within 100 feet of the lake, but even so, camps are extremely limited. Inlet streams were not flowing enough to filter water out of; they just made the ground northeast of the lake rather squishy.

Beyond the junction, the trail is in the open, and is overgrown once again. There is another bluff camp 1.0 mile past the lake trail junction, and there was enough water flowing to filter from.

I continued up to Hawkeye Point, an easy enough trail to follow up to the old lookout, and found outstanding views from there. Most startling was teal-colored Goat Lake. A little bit of scrambling northeast of the summit revealed that there was a small herd of goats lounging above Goat Lake, hidden from Hawkeye Point by a rock outcropping.

Mt. Adams was mostly unobscured. Over its flank, the top of Mt. Hood was visible. To the west, Mt. St. Helens’ jagged top was visible until clouds rolled in. And Mt. Rainier had just thin clouds across it face. The views were quite worth the effort.

We tried to get out to the Lily Basin trailhead on 8/17/19. About 4.2 miles out FR 48 there was a deep rut all the way across the road with rocks sticking out and a steep back slope. We got out and compared my Forester's ground clearance to the options for crossing it. None looked good so we turned around rather than get stuck or break the car. On the way out a raised 4x4 went taring up the road. WE're pretty sure they made it.

#senseoutweighingsenseofadventure.

Note the trail condition notes above don't make sense because we didn't hike the trail.The website made me pick something to post the road conditions.

Road Conditions: Spur to Angry Mountain Trail head has one large rut; took it slow and passed with ease in a Chevy Spark. 

Day 1 - Hike up the ridge is switchback after switchback and a steep climb. First few miles of trail is in good condition, but trail was lost several times during the second half. Look for cut logs ahead of you if you lose the trail. There is no water on Angry Mt. Trail - plan accordingly. Start before 12 if you plan to make it to Heart Lake by night.

We departed trail around 2:30 and happily stumbled into the sole campsite on Angry Mountain Trail around 6:30 as we were starting to realize making it to Heart Lake by 8 was unlikely. The meadow has no water and room for a few tents. Best practice would be to start early, pack plenty of water, and make sure you have time to reach Heart Lake in one day; the steep trail really slowed us down. Views are limited until last mile or so of trail. Those views are stunning. 

Day 2 - Easily made it to Heart Lake from campsite in 3 hours. No snow on trail or in meadow. Attempted to continue to Goat Lake for the night. Snow fields make it impossible to reach Goat Lake with leashed dogs (shown in photo). Would need snow-gear. Returned to Heart Lake. Heart Lake ecosystem is fragile; would be best to camp on ridge or on trail around lake than in meadow.

Day 3 - Made it from Heart Lake to Angry Mountain trailhead in 5.5 hours. Stopped for a beer at Packwood Brewery to celebrate beautiful views and not getting lost!

Despite this trail's limited use we still found a few pieces of trash on the trail - be good stewards and leave no trace.