101
Roadwalker
 
This is actually a delayed trail report on a hike taken 8/26. The directions to the trailhead require some slight modification. The trail books list the Packwood Lumber Co. and a motel as markers to find FS48. The Packwood Lumber Co. no longer exists (site is obvious);and, the dominent word on the motel sign is LODGE. FS48 is neither signposted nor marked. FS48 is a decent road excepting a short (50ft) section just past an old gravel pit which is rough. Beyond this point the road gets even better. This trail is popular with Oregonians, 7 out of 9 cars at the trailhead had Oregon plates. The trail is initially a forested ridgeline walk with thining trees and improving views until gaining a stupendous pamorama of Packwood Lake and THE MTN. Progressing further views of Johnson Peak develop and the trail passes through an alpine meadow beneath a striking cliffband. At this point I fell and broke my leg. Nevertheless I would do this one again.
LVHDLM
 
7-9 September 2001. Backpacked from ""Berry Patch"" trailhead at end of F. S. 2150 to a campsite on the Lily Basin Trail in the area named ""Alpine"" on maps. The trail is in fine shape; signs are adequate; signs of horse travel are abundant. In the afternoon of Day 1 we hiked via the Pacific C Crest Trail to the top of Old Snowy; a good use trail leads the very few hundred yards from the PCT proper to the top. A weatherbeaten board sign with no discernible words marks the junction, but it is obvious. A couple of patches of snow still cover the PCT, but they present no problem at all to a hiker. Hikers ought to note that an older version of the PCT can still be followed across a steeper snowfield; this is the trail that is still shown on most published maps. It doesn't climb as high, but it offers more treacherous footing, and should probably be avoided. From Old Snowy we proceeded directly to Ives Peak. The route is fairly obvious; some tread or signs that people have passed that way are evident. At first, dropping off the summit of Old Snowy, we had to descend on loose, but not steep, talus around a cliff buttress, but we were then able to regain the crest of the connecting ridge where the going is quite good for a while. In general it is well to stay on the crest or on the west side of it, but one prominent gendarme about halfway along the ridge is best passed on the left (east) side. A south-side ledge, then an easy scramble up to the left leads to the top of Ives. No particular route-finding skills are required to descend; the west slope of Ives is open talus presenting no problems. On Day 2 we hiked up Curtis Gilbert using the first route described in Beckey's Cascade Alpine Guide. This route DOES require some route-finding skill or luck; in any case it is somewhat unpleasant (loose rock). The description refers to crossing the Cispus-Klickitat Divide and then taking a loose-rock gully up to the left; this is correct, although there are several gullies and it is not entirely clear whether only one, or perhaps all of them, work. Halfway up it is necessary to traverse to the right (ESE) between lower and higher bands of cliffs, at approximately 7400' or a little above. Some useful cairns are in place along this traverse. The route eventually tops out onto a summit plateau at about 7600', after which the way is clear. It would seem inadvisable for a party unfamiliar with the route to descend it, and in fact considerable caution would be necessary to descend it under the most favorable conditions. Owing to rockfall hazard, a party larger than four probably ought to elect a different route, and this route probably ought not to attempted if another party is ahead. Helmets recommended. Beckey's Guide describes a ""variation"" of this route,which is in fact a completely independent summit route. (The last fifty feet to the top are a short scramble, the same by all routes.) We returned via this route, and found it long but delightful. Descending, one simply follows the ""Klickton Divide"", an airy crest separating the Klickitat from the Tieton drainings. The divide is sometimes broad, sometimes narrow, but always feasible; it is possible to make quite good time on it. The northeast slope holds a glacier (Meade), much reduced from the map's showing and from most published photographs. The southwest slope is for about two miles an unbroken cliff crowned with innumerable spires. Choosing a route with care, one can eventually drop down into the Klickitat basin, beyond this cliff. However, perhaps surprisingly, Beckey's route description in correct in that there exists an unmapped trail extending from the Klickton Divide about three miles WNWward to the PCT near Cispus Pass. Although it fades at times in meadows, especially wet ones, the trail generally affords a good tread and easy, rapid travel. A significant section of it is marked with blazes of orange paint on rocks and trees. This trail can be found on the descent of the Klickton Divide in a meadow at about 6600', not far from where the USGS map shows a monument labeled ""121"". After a steep descent of a couple of hundred feet on short switchbacks, it follows a bench at about 6400', then gradually descends to a level near or below 6000', which it maintains most of the way, staying mostly in meadows, occasionally open woods, below cliffs and talus fans. At the head of the Klickitat basin it may seem to head away from Cispus Pass; here simply head uphill WNW through meadows to meet the PCT at or near the pass. A party attempting to use this route for both the ascent and descent of Curtis Gilbert is advised to make camp in Cispus Basin or near Cispus Pass. It is not difficult, but it is long. A further note: all described routes up Curtis Gilbert enter the Yakima Reservation. The aforementioned abandoned and unmapped trail probably lies within the reservation for about three miles. (The boundary seems to be unmarked and unsigned.) My guess is that very few hikers in this area obtain permission to be there, but entering the reservation without a permit is, of course, not a recommended practice. The upper Klickitat is wild and lovely, affording solitude not to be found during good weather on the west slope (Gifford Pinchot National Forest) of the Goat Rocks. A suggestion: if a hiker should decide to traverse this region without permission, he/she ought at least to follow leave-no-trace principles scrupulously, and above all to avoid camping in it. A further note: in addition to the abandoned trail, the PCT itself traverses the uppermost slopes of the Klickitat Basin (Yakima land). Day 3 was a hike out along the Lily Basin and Goat Ridge trails, with a side trip to the excellent viewpoint of Hawkeye Point. The trails were all in fine condition. Although the official trails we used were all in good shape, we found that maps, especially the USGS maps do not depict them correctly. This is especially the case in the area between Snowgrass Flat and the Pacific Crest Trail. The U. S. F. S. map (Goat Rocks Wilderness Area) is perhaps the most accurate, but even it has one or two misplacements. Most likely the trails have been relocated since the mapping surveys were completed.
deeppurpleman
Beware of: trail conditions
 
Had time for a longer day hike so I decided to do the Lily Basin Trail in the Goat Rocks Wilderness. To get to the trailhead, you take FS road 48 from Packwood. The road is in pretty good shape but there are some large potholes and there is one spot which is in pretty tough shape so be careful. This trail offers a little bit of everything plus some killer views. For some reason, the very first part of the trail has a tremendous amount of tree blowdown but only in a few spots after that. The first couple of miles is nothing special but there are some good views of Mt. Adams. The trail continues climbing and enters some older forest which is very nice. About 4 miles in, there is an awesome view of Mt. Ranier hanging over Packwood Lake. Postcard material definitely. The trail then dips briefly and climbs to the other side of the ridge to the Lily Basin side. This part of the trail is exposed and you start to slowly climb around the base of Johnson Peak. There are a few stream crossings and there's some mud on the trail. One of the stream crossings is tricky and requires some nimble scrambling. Next you continue climbing over some rocks up to the intersection with the Angry Mountain Trail. The view here is unbelievable. I found a perch on a rock and enjoyed my lunch. There was views of Ranier, Adams and St. Helens. Couldn't have asked for a better day. Saw some sort of creature scrambling over the rocks. Looked like a cat of some sort. Didn't go down to Heart Lake but I heard there was some mountain goats nearby. Good hike. Worth the effort.
Eric Pedersen
Beware of: snow, trail conditions
 
Jordan Creek trail up into the Goat Rocks was in fantastic shape. Spent the night at bluff camp on Goat Ridge with fantastic views of the clouds running up the valleys. Next day, went up to Goat Lake and then Hawkeye Point. Unbelievable flowers in Goat Creek basin and Hawkeye Point has to be the best view in all of the Goat Rocks. Watch out on Lily Basin Trail #86 between Hawkeye Pt. trail and Heart Lake. Steep snow field still across trail and multiple washouts on talus slope. Heart Lake is warm enough for swimming now and has plenty of camp spots. We took the Angry Mountain trail down and it is in OK shape with lots of blow-down.
Alan Bauer
Beware of: snow, trail conditions
 
If there could be a better place on earth, it is hard to picture it other than this area. I went with high expectations from what I've heard and read, but this trek was as good as it gets! The day had me concerned how well it would go---at 3:17am heading over Tiger Mtn on Highway 18, the one car in front of me ended up being a hay truck I had to SLOWLY follow! Ugh. The fog over Cayuse Pass was frightenly hard to drive through at 4:30am, and I almost had to stop driving. Alas, I made it in one piece, and was heading up to do this classic loop by 5:55am. Brrrr...wearing short sleeves isn't so smart hours before the sun rises over the ridge! I opted to head up the Snowgrass Flat trail first so the main elevation wouldn't be immediate, but rather 2-3 miles in. The trail to the crossing over Goat Creek was fast and already lines with flowers, the 1500 foot climb to Snowgrass steep at times but never too much of a burden, and the creek/waterfall off a switchback 2/3 the way up was grand. But what awaited me at Snowgrass was out of this world. Thus began the most amazing wildflower, high alpine stretch of trail one can imagine: alpine fir trees a mer 3-4'tall, carpeted by a solid mat of colorful wildflowers. Views in all directions, sun to my back for perfect photography, and no wind. Being up to Snowgrass Flats by 7:55am brought me perfect timing for the sun to burn off the low clouds and provide magical light throughout the basin. The hike from SNowgrass to Goat Lake took me until almost 11:00am for what was maybe 2.0-2.5 miles! ""Walk three steps, take four more photographs"" was my motto. The incredible flora party can be thanks to Mount Saint Helens dumping massive amounts of ash here in 1980, killing off a lot of stuff, but making for an amazing show that will be fun to watch change throughout the rest of my lifetime---I'm sure I'll return here every couple of years to see it unfold. Goat Lake was so beautiful, with the icebergs and 3/4 ice cover it still (and usually) supports. The reflection of Goat Ridge in what water there was made my head spin. Oh, and Mount Adams dominating the backdrop view looking over the massive Goat Creek valley to the south from here is an image you cannot draw up yourself. Oh, and that view from the approach to Goat Lake of the outlet waters of Goat Creek plunging off the top of the world from the Goat Lake basin and dropping down what must be 1500 feet to the basin below before it becomes a ""creek"" instead of one long constant series of waterfalls. Oh, and then came Jordan Basin on the route out (the only snow patches all day that are left up there are just as you leave Goat Lake to head to Jordan Basin, and they are small but hide the trail a bit). Wow! Here is where the wildlife was: elk, deer, pika, marmots, and one huge coyote roaming the talas slopes...likely hunting for the fat pika, marmots, and you just read my account of natural history putting on a play for me, the one with the front row seat! I could write a book on my day. I'll leave that for another time. Stats for the day include 1 cow elk, seven deer (all in and around Jordan Basin), many pika, four marmots, one fat coyote, a Northern Flicker family of four jumping around on a tree snag, not able to fly yet, and then 51 species of flora identified!! Much of that was in a solid carpet of color throughout 7-8 miles of this 13+ mile day. Seeing vast views of lupine, paintbrush, lousewort, pasqueflower, bistort, and aster as a solid canvas as far as the eye can see was a sight no film or painting could ever catch. But my memory has an exact replica of my day, and that's the best part of all!