Five friends and I took three days to climb Mount Olympus via the Blue Glacier. We camped at the trailhead on Thursday night (plenty of campsites available at the Hoh River Trailhead without a reservation), and then hiked to Glacier Meadows the next day to establish our base camp. The campsites are great and close to a water source. They are also conveniently equipped with bear wire, so bear canisters are not necessary.
The next morning we woke up around 5:45AM and started the climb in earnest at 7:00AM. While crossing the Blue Glacier, we identified many small crevasses, so if attempting this route, proceed with caution. We took a long break at Snow Dome to fuel up and assess the route. We saw several relatively fresh boot tracks heading in different directions. Based on our review of the climbing guide for Mount Olympus, we followed the boot tracks that traversed left from Snow Dome and around the back side of the false summit.
Once we reached the summit block, we took ropes and crampons off and took only light packs with us, leaving heavier gear at the base of the summit. There is a nice ramp to follow to a corner that we all felt was quite exposed. A climber in our party set up a belay station at this corner to protect climbers from a potential fall. Once past this corner, the way to the summit is a slightly exposed scramble. It took us roughly 7 hours from the camp to summit.
After signing the summit register, we rappelled back down to the rocky ramp to return to our gear. There is an anchor already in place to do this. We were making excellent time on the descent back to camp; however, thick fog caused some issues while crossing the glacier. Low visibility caused us to lose sight of our boot path. It took about an hour of fumbling around to find the ridgeline where we descended onto the glacier that morning. Wands would have definitely come in handy here. Fortunately, we didn't wander too far of course and the ridgeline came into view momentarily which was enough for us to navigate back to it. We were back at our campsite after 13.5 hours.
A few things to note:
(1) Immediately before reaching the Glacier Meadows campsite, there is a major washout. A ladder has been set up to navigate through it. It is challenging both going down and up the ladder so watch your footing.
(2) If you are attempting this climb in three days, pack as light as you can. Trust me, your feet will thank you. It was a grueling few days, but definitely doable. That said, even if attempting this climb in three days, pack enough food for four.
(3) Wear approach shoes and bring mountaineering boots. Again, your feet will thank you.
(4) Consider placing wands to help you navigate back to the trail after the climb. The fog can really disorient you and throw you off course. A GPS tracker would also be helpful.
This was an amazing and challenging climb! We all made it back safe and sound and in time to see the Fourth of July fireworks.