Labor Day Weekend! We had three days to play with, and figured it was as good excuse as any to make the extra trek out to the Olympics. We stopped at the Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles, third in line at 7:15 am (they open at 8:00 am), and we got our permit to camp at 13.3, the last campsite before camping in the quota area and the only one nearby that is large enough for more than 1 tent. The ranger informed us that nobody else was planning on camping there, printed out our permit for the site for the next two nights, and wished us luck!
The Hoh River trail starts out fairly gradual, but there are quite a few ups and downs, so don't let the mostly flat elevation profile trick you. Everything is incredibly green - moss covering trunks and draping from branches, fields of ferns and clover ground cover...It's beautiful, and was very refreshing to be exploring something so lush and damp after the summer we've had here in the Pacific Northwest! There are glimpses of the Hoh River occasionally through the lush undergrowth, and once you reach 5 Mile Island, you can pick a secluded spot on the shore for a nice lunch break. This was a popular idea amongst everyone backpacking in further along the trail. As we sat and ate our lunch, we watched some clouds rolling in over the ridge, bringing with them the promise of rain we had seen in the weather forecast.
The scenery changes quite a bit on this trail. At one point we were walking through a field of birches! It was beautiful, and we quickly arrived at the Olympus Guard Station about 9 miles in. The volunteer ranger was chatting to everyone passing through. He asked where we were planning on staying, and we mentioned camping at 13.3. He said nobody had gone through yet today with that destination, so we were good to go! We thanked him and continued on the trail, anxious to get to camp and set up our tents before the rains came. The trail started to noticeably gain elevation, and the mileage was quickly tiring our legs at this point; distances seemed much further than they were. We were so happy to finally reach the High Ho bridge around 13 miles, and our campsite just beyond it. Just past the bridge about 0.1 miles is the 13.3 campsite. 13.2 is also marked although very small, and 13.1 is easily missed if you're not trying really hard to find the small trail into the campsite.
The next day we hit the trail around 10 am. It begins climbing IMMEDIATELY, and doesn't really stop until you get to the glacier. The clouds hanging around all morning were trying to burn off, and we got some occasional glimpses of blue sky, but it stayed cool and cloudy most of the day. On the hike up, you have views of Mt. Olympus and the White Glacier. We were lucky enough to have a few cloud breaks to see it. There are quite a few sections of the trail that are extremely narrow, with an incredibly steep drop down several hundred feet (or more). It pays to pay attention here and watch your feet, because a trip would be deadly.
There is a permanent trail washout past Elk Lake, with a fixed ladder and rope to help you get down the steep and crumbly slope. It's a bit intimidating at first, especially approaching the ladder, but once you get the hang of going down backward it's fine. We spaced out so we wouldn't be on top of one another climbing down. The ladder moves as people step on it, as does the rope when people use it. Just past the ladder climb and before Glacier Meadows there are a couple downed trees from the recent storm. It's pretty easy to climb over them. Besides this, the trail is in decent shape!
After Glacier Meadows camp, you quickly reach a meadow and small tarn fed by melting glacial water. The scramble begins here. However, what appears to be the top of the big field of boulders actually is! So the tough climb doesn't last long before you reach the crest and have your first views of the glacier. Everyone said their own variety of expletive when first laying eyes on it.
We enjoyed lunch, hanging out on the lateral moraine for about an hour, watching the clouds blow through and occasionally getting better glimpses of the mountain. We'd have stayed longer if it hadn't been so cold! The trip back was much quicker and easier (including the ladder climb), and we were happy to get back early enough to cook and eat dinner in the daylight this time!
It rained on us again overnight, although it wasn't quite the downpour we'd had the night before. Luckily it had stopped when we got up around 7 am, as we wanted to be on the trail early. We were hiking by 8:30, and making good pace - about 3 miles per hour. We didn't stop for lunch until just past 5 Mile Island. By this point we were all nearly in tears from our feet hurting so badly. 38 miles is a long way to trek in just 3 days! We tried to keep our mind off the pain by talking about ice cream and favorite meals, musicals and childhood sports...you name it. We got to know one another pretty well on this trip!
When we finally saw the sign for the Hall of Mosses trail, I almost wept with joy. We dumped our packs at the car, changed clothes in the visitor center bathrooms, and enjoyed a cold beer at the car before hitting the road. Based on a write-up I'd seen in the WTA magazine awhile back, plus a recommendation from some hiking friends we met at the WIC, we decided to stop in Port Angeles at the Next Door Gastropub. HIGHLY recommended! They have a great beer selection and the burgers and fries (all varieties that we tried) were amazing. Don't miss it if you're in the area.
For more pictures and details of the trip, check out my blog linked below! And always my instagram for more pictures of my adventures!