We went from Icicle Creek TH to the Chatter Creek TH (with a lucky hitch-hike back to our car)
Icicle Creek trail is in good condition and no challenge. We encountered a party of 2 close to the TH. Gradual uphill starts on the Frosty-Wildhorse trail. Stream crossing was no problem. It gets brushy in the upper basin- not tunneling through brush over your head brushy, but mildly annoying. A few bugs at the turnoff to Lake Margaret. The views became increasingly amazing as we ascended from Frosty Pass through Mary's pass on the Icicle Creek trail. Wowza! We didn't stop at Mary Lake either because we hadn't left the TH until nearly 1pm and we wanted to make sure we made camp before dark.
We continued along to upper Florence lake for the night. The "trail" to the lake seems to make more sense from the other direction, or from the Pass (where the main trail doesn't seem to intersect?) Maybe we missed something, at any rate it's open and no problem to descend until you hit the lake trail. After ~12+ miles without seeing anyone we were surprised to see the one decent campsite near the lake occupied. Two other solo men and a USFS ranger showed up soon after us. Our day 4500 gain, 12+ miles, 6 hours.
It rained all night despite the weather forecast 0% chance of rain. It kept drizzling and we stayed in the sleeping bag rather than hike through possible wet brush. The good news is that there isn't brush for miles but we didn't know it at the time. We started hiking at nearly 11am. The views are really sublime on this trail. Snowgrass mountain hid in the cloud layer as we headed uphill from Ladies Pass on the shoulder of Cape Horn. We didn't climb the short scramble to the summit- at one of the switchbacks there is a way trail to a spot large enough to put your backpacks if you want to. Looks like the scramble heads up from there.
Lake Edna was lovely. Set in a circle of green grass within a barren rocky basin. We had a snack and pumped more water before heading downhill. Lots of amazing campsite options along the trail here, both before and after the Chatter Creek Junction. A bonus, you can avoid trampling lovely Edna- you need to camp 200 feet away anyway and there aren't many options right at the lake.
Lots of ups and downs along the Chatter Creek trail through a high basin with rocks, larches and mossy moist meadows. There are a couple of nice campsites here too. We ascended to the shoulder of Grindstone Mountain and enjoyed the views.
From here it is all downhill. It's fairly steep and scrambly. I'd rather go uphill here and perhaps will next time. But I can see why the other TR's of this route go up the other way, certainly less taxing and you split the gain up better. I prefer suffering and getting it over faster ;) Our knees were a little sore 4,000 elevation loss later.
We really enjoyed this loop. Highly scenic, saw less than 10 humans in 2 days. Must recommend!
We recorded about 21 miles, 6000+ gain for the trip.