Having been tasked with taking Cedar far away from 4th of July fireworks, I chose a 4-day traverse through high lakes of the Chiwaukum Mountains. As it is still early season in the high country, I knew we were taking a chance on trail and snow conditions, but decided to give it a look anyway. We left the Icicle Creek trailhead Saturday mid-morning in sunny conditions and hiked 5 miles upstream to the junction with the Frosty Creek trail. The Icicle Creek trail is in great shape, many wildflowers, including Pink Pyrolas in prime condition. (navigation note: the junction with the Frosty Creek trail is just past the bridge across Icicle Creek, about 1/2 mile upstream from where my USGS topo places it).
The Frosty Creek trail is another story, all of my notes on trail obstacles (except snowfields) refer to the Frosty Creek trail. It starts out well enough, until it reaches Doughgod Creek which is still running high and requires caution; shin-deep wading and careful foot placement, would have been dicey without trekking poles. Cedar, of course had no problem, and laughed at me from the other side while I cautiously proceeded. A half mile or so farther on (about 3500') the real fun begins, blowdowns, more blowdowns, blowdowns on top of blowdowns! It will take an extensive logging operation to clear this trail, not sure when or if that might happen. There were also several sections of trail which were overgrown by vegetation, not too hard to follow for now, but maybe a different story by mid-summer. The obstacles continued until we reached the bench at about 5000'. We considered camping there, but decided to continue on to Lake Margaret. We camped at the north end of the lake, there is also at least one other spot near the outflow. I was impressed that 2 more groups of backpackers arrived after us, both having successfully completed the Frosty Creek obstacle course. There were a few mosquitoes at Lake Margaret, but none at the higher lakes.
In the morning we proceeded up to Frosty Pass and on to Lake Mary where we ate lunch. Beyond Lake Mary we encountered the first of several snowfields, this one on the north facing slope leading to the pass between Lake Mary and Upper Florence Lake. The snow was soft, perfect for step-kicking, and we proceeded over the pass where we first encountered the strong winds which continued until we were well down the Chatter Creek trail. All of the snow that we encountered was soft and did not freeze overnight. I carried micro-spikes but did not use them. I was glad to have the trekking poles however. On one of the later snowfields I noticed crampon tracks. In my opinion, crampons and soft snow are a dangerous combination, but they seemed to have worked OK in this case.
The Upper Florence Lake basin was windy, but mostly snow-free. We found a reasonably sheltered spot at the south-east end of the lake and spent the night there. Cedar was ecstatic to encounter marmots for the first time this season. She was also especially pleased that some previous visitors had left used toilet paper out for her to sniff (and probably rolled in if left to her own devices). We were hoping for sunset/sunrise/starry night, but were out of luck as clouds moved in in the afternoon and brought some light showers overnight.
The next morning we woke up to less wind, but white-out conditions that persisted until early afternoon. When the weather appeared to be lifting, we packed up and headed for ladies Pass, intending to camp in Spanish Camp Basin. The weather did not completely clear, and at Ladies Pass waves of clouds and showers were passing through. We hemmed and hawed for a time about crossing Cape Horn to Lake Edna in the changing weather conditions. We knew that the steepest snow slopes of the route would be on the north side of Cape Horn and again on the ascent to the pass to Chatter Creek. Eventually we chose a break in the showers and went for it. Again, the snow was soft and step-kicking was easy, at least for a 170 lb human wearing leather boots, not so much for a 50 lb dog! I belayed Cedar with a length of webbing tied to her pack harness, a good decision, as she slid part way up and would have had a long ride of several hundred feet. We safely made it over Cape Horn and down to Lake Edna, a windswept and thoroughly uninviting place on this particular afternoon. We passed by without stopping and continued down to Spanish Camp Basin to look for a spot to spend the night. There was still considerable snow cover in the basin, periodically obscuring the trail. Fortunately the weather had lifted enough so that we could see the pass to Chatter Creek and keep ourselves oriented. Eventually we reached the base of the pass without encountering any camp sites that we liked. Considering the weather at the moment to be acceptable, but the next day's an unknown, we decided to cut bait and cross the pass. I put Cedar back on belay (she didn't slip again) and over we went. Interestingly, there had been a skier in the area within the last day or two who had left a skin track up the slope. We dropped down into the Chatter Creek Basin and chose one of the established camp sites at 5000' to set up for the night.
The next day we had an easy walk out along the Chatter Creek trail, which is in good condition, only a couple of blow downs. I imposed several stops for flower pictures, always an annoyance for Cedar, who likes to keep the show rolling. There were numerous tiger lilies, bluebells, columbine, blue and white shooting stars, and many others.
Overall another successful outing in another beautiful area. Under better weather conditions there are outstanding views of the Stuart Range and the Central Cascades. Right now, however, this trip is best for those with experience in snow travel and route finding. I can't recommend the Frosty Creek trail as an access to the high country, but Chatter Creek is in good condition, and the Chain Lakes and Wildhorse trails are other options that may be in better condition.
As far as our main agenda: no fireworks were heard, clearly Cedar's best Fourth of July ever!