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Mount Baker — Jun. 24, 2023

North Cascades > Mount Baker Area
3 photos
Beware of: snow conditions

7 people found this report helpful

 

Completed two-day climb to the summit of Mount Baker via Easton Glacier.
Short summary:

  • Road to the trailhead is snow-free
  • Trailhead is snow-free
  • Had to mark 0.25 miles from the trailhead - a lot of cars (and people) due to wash-out road to Heliotrope Ridge trail
  • Snow starts at 4,400 ft
  • In Saturday - hiked from the trailhead to the camp at 5,900 ft.
  • Big pool of clear water close to the camp - no need to melt any snow
  • Alpine start at 04:00 AM on Sunday. Four rope teams, 13 of us total.
  • Few crevasses have started opening up - easy to go around or just step over;
  • Summited just after 9 AM
  • Blue skies, beautiful views!

Mount Baker — Jun. 11, 2023

North Cascades > Mount Baker Area
Beware of: road, snow & trail conditions

1 person found this report helpful

 

Attempted Mount Baker from south route up the Easton Glacier.  Was originally planning for June 10 Saturday but delayed to Sunday due to light/rain snow.  Day of climb was clear and warm. 

We camped at Easton Glacier Trailhead with little sleep. The trailhead up was dirt road had some snow immediately before parking but was passable with Toyota Corolla should be no problem for any 4wd. We had a rope team of 4 left at 1 am from Easton Glacier Trailhead.  Stream crossing after about a mile 1:45 am was minor difficulty especially in the dark but crossable with care.  Boot track deviated from GPS track .5 mile from railroad grade and made short cut across a snowfield.  Reached railroad grade at 3 am. This can be intimidating in the dark, care should be taken as a fall could be serious due to exposure.  Reached Easton Glacier at 4:45 am, roped up and observed other rope team head lamps on the mountain above. Weather cleared for sunrise at about 5:45 am. Glacier condition was good with some small cravasses forming. Followed boot path which avoided most of these hazards. We reached Roman Wall at about 8am. There was alot of traffic on the Roman Wall everyone coming down was gracious and stepped to the side for the uphill climbers. Summited at about 9:45am. 

We made great time down plunge stepping. Snow was much softer however boot path still seamed firm for travel.  Skipped much of the railroad grade on the way down in favor of a path on the adjacent snowfield. The stream crossing was much easier in the daylight.  We completed climb at about 2:30 PM. Total trip time was about 13.5 hours.

Conditions were generally favorable most difficult part was stream crossing and roman wall at the end.  There was 20 to 25 rope teams and about 20 skiers on the mountain so lots of traffic which made route finding easy. Estimate extra water as we had 3+ Liters each and finished it all by the time we returned to the stream crossing.  Glacier in good shape but cravasses will only grow in the next few weeks with this warm weather.

Mount Baker — Jun. 11, 2023

North Cascades > Mount Baker Area
4 photos
Beware of: road, snow & trail conditions

12 people found this report helpful

 

Mount Baker summit via Easton Glacier and Railroad Grade/ Park Butte trail. Parking lot is accessible now to all cars. Our team of 4 started out at the Park Butte trailhead at 1:00 AM and headed toward RR grade and Easton. There was some snow in places along the trail and one difficult stream crossing. It wasn't until we were on the way down that we saw a small bridge across the stream (so if you're hiking in the dark, go about 20 yards uphill to make your life easier). 

Reached the top of RR grade and the start of the Easton glacier at sunrise. The temps were fairly warm so the snow was a little slushy even early in the morning. Roped up here and slowly made our way toward the roman wall where we saw most of the 2-day teams heading down. Crevasses along the route are opening so make sure you're prepared. 

We reached the summit at about 9:30 AM and began the descent about 30 minutes later. The snow was very soft on the way down which made for boot skiing and plunge stepping all the way back to the RR grade. Made it back to the car at 2:30 PM. All in all a great day and a lot of type 2 fun. 

Mount Baker — May. 28, 2023

North Cascades > Mount Baker Area
4 photos + video
Beware of: road, snow & trail conditions

6 people found this report helpful

 

What an adventure! We climbed up the Railroad Grade to 6200', set up camp, set our alarms for 11:45pm, began up Easton Glacier just after midnight and arrived at the summit for a beautiful sunrise at 6 am. The final push up the Roman Wall is breathtaking, in more ways than one.

This was our first go at mountaineering, and fortunately we had two seasoned veterans two guide us. The total preparation of gathering the necessary gear and training was over a month from when we penciled the summit date on the calendar. After we were invited, we set out to Cable Line trails, Mt. Si, Mailbox, Camp Muir, etc. etc. throughout the week and the weekends with heavy packs to prepare. The thing I wish we had prepared for better is the stiffness of mountaineering boots and the fitting of the crampons. Other than that, we were ready!

At the trailhead, there was still snow about a half mile from the the true trailhead, and enough cars to force us to park nearly another half mile from there. Besides a few dry patches here and there, as well as the Railroad Grade, we were walking on snow for the entirety of our trip. 

The most difficult part of the first day is finding a good place to cross a decent sized creek. Poles were very helpful here for tiptoeing across the rocks. From there, we followed some GPX routes up the snow toward the Railroad Grade. I remember thinking to myself "why is it called that?" but when you're on it, you just know why. 

There were quite a few tents set up, including some large groups around us. We overheard one group of about 12 saying they were setting their alarms for midnight, so we in turn set ours for 11:45. Turns out they were headed up to attempt Sherman rather than Baker, but I'm still glad we had a little space to go our own speed in the dark. As hard as it was, we attempted sleep at about 6:45, but of course had to wake up to take in the sunset. When the sun finally disappeared, we went back to try to catch a few more hours before the alarm went off. 

The first few hours of the climb itself was dark, cold when we were exposed to wind, but not all that difficult due to steepness. There was a wide boot path to follow, and we approached the crater rim just as the sky turned from black to blue. The sulfur smell we had heard about is a real thing, and the steam coming up from the Volcano is something I won't forget. 

The Roman Wall was just awesome, and we were glad to have put some distance between us and the steady line of headlamps just below. The solo hiker (our guides warned us this was not advised, as he had no rope team) who had passed us on the way up was already on his way back down, and it was then that I realized we were really going to make it to the summit. After the Roman Wall was over, we unclipped the rope from our harnesses and turned off our headlamps, just as the sun rose behind the summit. 

Total time from the car to camp at 6200': About 5 hours, at a leisurely pace. My backpack for typical weekend overnights is about 35 lbs, but with the crampons, helmet, rope, ice axe, harness and lockers was just over 60lbs. 

Total time from Camp to the Summit: 6 hours

Total time from the summit back to camp: 3 hours

Camp back to the car: 4 hours

Please be careful, the snow is really softening up in the sunshine, and one person from our group postholed and smashed her knee into a rock with just a few miles back to the car. It was an answer to prayer that she was able to continue despite some serious pain. 

Mount Baker — May. 27, 2023

North Cascades > Mount Baker Area
4 photos
Beware of: snow, trail conditions

15 people found this report helpful

 

Writing up a quick report to provide some updated recent beta for other climbers. My group of three did a C2C Baker summit via the Easton route on May 27.

We parked the night before at the Park Butte TH. Snow currently starts about .6 miles before the actual parking lot, so everyone is just parking along the road. We didn’t have an issue finding spots, but note this means no toilets so please plan to PACK OUT any of your waste / TP. Seriously. Don’t be a jerk and leave your used TP in the woods along the road.

Slept in our cars and headed out at 2 AM. Trail was smooth enough at first but confusion seemed to hit many groups - from later discussions with other climbers - at the river crossings. There is no bridge installed at the first crossing yet, and no good path across on rocks. Most people found a shallow enough spot and waded across, but it’s still about calf deep, so come prepared to remove your boots! My group had a track from a climbing group from last week, which actually took a different route up the right side of the river and basically into the moraine below Railroad Grade. While this track probably works well in good snow conditions, the top of the grade is melted out enough now that it did NOT work for us. We ended up having to scramble a distance on that crumbling, soft dirt and rock to get onto RR Grade and it was probably the most dangerous part of our day! So please if you’ve got that winter track from anyone - I know someone posted it on AllTrails - know it’s not the best option any longer. Take the normal Park Butte trail.

Once on RR Grade and then onto the glacier, the going is good. Crevasses beginning to open but nothing very immediate on the climbing route. The Roman Wall is in fine shape for that last push of suffering. True summit block is still snowy.

Trip down was smooth with good plunge-stepping, but, as always, quite a slog!

We took the normal trail out rather than attempt to follow our path in. It’s good a good bootpack overall, though the snow was sloppy in the afternoon hours on a warm day.

On the way out, we did notice that the first river crossing out (second on the way in) has snow bridges that are juuuuust about done. We sort of had to hold our breaths and take a jump and hope not to fall through into the river, which at least thankfully at this crossing was not deep underfoot. But know that those bridges will likely be gone in the coming days, meaning some more interesting navigation to get across. The second crossing on the way out (first on the way in, mentioned earlier in the report) took a minute to figure out but then some kind climbers on the other side pointed out the best crossing spot to my group. We were exhausted at that point and just crossed in our boots without bothering to remove them!

All in all a successful albeit long day. If you’re going up, enjoy!