581
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Beware of: snow conditions

14 people found this report helpful

 

Turned around at ~7500ft. Adding this trip report because 1) there aren't many in general for the November shoulder season, and 2) I lost a pair of rain pants at ~7500ft.

Six hours drive from Seattle in traffic. The gate to the main lot of Marble Mtn Sno-Park (elev ~2600') is closed, but the overflow lot is open and snow-free. As a party of three, we camped there in light to moderate rain, and had the whole place to ourselves save two cars that had arrived later in the night.

Having studied but never hiked this route before, and beginning in the dark with fog and iffy viz, it was helpful for route finding to see a few retroreflectors that are prominently placed on the route near Chocolate Falls. 

The route is totally snow-free until you reach the uppermost slopes. Footing below the snowline, above treeline is variable; depending on where exactly you choose to walk and how high up you are, you cross boulders, very loose scree, some kind of volcanic sand, mud, before you get to the snow. On the way down, highly recommend gaiters unless you want to stop frequently to shake pebbles out of your boots, and beware that it is easy to dislodge large rocks onto anyone that might be below.

Patches of snow off-route appear starting 5500' or so, larger snowfields begin a little above 6000', but rock ridges remain snow-free until 6800' or so, at which point the snow is still navigable without traction, and/or crossing between rock ribs across small gullies containing ~2-5in of snow presents no problems. The rocks on the ridge begin to be plastered with ice on their downward side around 7200', and the rocks end around 7400', giving way to mandatory snowfield travel. The snow surface there, at ~9:45am, was somewhat soft, but slippery enough and steep enough to present a hazard. I began carrying my ice axe in hand around 7200', and decided to put on crampons at 7400'. My two partners put on microspikes here and appeared to be able to make upward progress.

We made it just a little ways up this snowfield to ~7500', just below the junction with Monitor Ridge, before deciding to turn around in the face of steadily worsening conditions including the return of poor visibility (route finding would be a concern for us), higher winds, precip (we were all some degree of wet despite our gear), and issues with a borrowed pair of crampons (mea culpa - always be familiar with your gear before you go out). 

Shortly after turning around, maybe 7400', my helmet became detached from my pack, and rolled down the snow gully and out of sight. Fortuitously it arced and ended up back on route a ways below. However I had my pair of trusty black REI GoreTex rain pants balled up inside it (which I had taken off earlier, had gotten too warm despite some continued sleet falling), and these vanished somewhere in the gully. You are unlikely to find them, but if you do, email me at mwstubna@hotmail.com.

We did a lot of things well on this hike, had excess water, extra layers, stayed together, managed the elevation gain and rain lower down just fine, we just made the judgment that the combination of worsening conditions and traction issues made it potentially hazardous to continue. On descent, we enjoyed a longer break at the weather station (?) at ~5700' - I had my MSR mini stove in my day pack, and REALLY enjoyed being able to make hot instant coffee. There may be a reason why so few people seem to attempt the route this time of year - be prepared, be safe, and enjoy the adventure.

Beware of: snow conditions

4 people found this report helpful

 

Climbed during a heatwave. Temps on the mountain were manageable, but I burned through water faster than usual.

Most parties were putting on spikes or crampons at the weather station. The snow was softened by the heat, but nobody postholed. There are some gnarly snowbridges hidden under the surface, so beware.

We had almost zero wind at the rim, and were able to spend a while relaxing and eating lunch. Lots of rock/snowfall can be heard from the crater. 

Most parties found glissading to be a struggle due to the snow conditions, and had to push themselves along continuously or become stuck. A piece of plastic tarp or the like is definitely recommended.

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kjpark
WTA Member
25

11 people found this report helpful

 

Road not too bad on way to parking lot but some potholes that you need to keep an eye out for.

Started from trailhead at 5 AM.  Trail and ridge melted out up to weather station. Some hikers using trail runners for this section and stashing them at weather station. 

From weather station, stayed on snow up to the rim.  Decent steps all the way up.  Snow was soft but firm going up.  Did not hike to true summit. Orange wands at rim warning hikers to stay away from cornice.  Snow very slushy on way down.  Couple glissade routes that were slow but fun.

Took 8 hours C2C. Gear included crampons, ice axe, 2.5 L of fluids.   

Elwedritsche
WTA Member
20

3 people found this report helpful

 

Ridges melted out. Followed boulder ridge above chocolate falls, then traversed onto snow sometime after.  Used existing booth path. Enjoyed glissades on descent around 10am. Not too fast, not too slow. Just perfect! We stuck closely to Wormflow climbing route, as we heard about the cracks on Swift Glacier. Can be seen from below, and a few flags had been placed as well. 

4 photos
Beware of: snow conditions

12 people found this report helpful

 

We had great conditions and weather for the Worm Flows route. Temps were in the 60s, little to no wind, and almost not a cloud in the sky. It took about an hour to get to Chocolate Falls, which for all practical purposes is when you are of the trees and into the open. For the next couple thousand feet or so of elevation gain, you are mostly on rock trail. After that, there is some ability to choose based on your preference on rock vs snow. The snow was amazing - lots of good steps and not too hard to kick new steps. We had no need for crampons, although there are some icy sections we went on a warm day, so certainly bring them along with some good boots. No need at all for snowshoes. Poles were very helpful. The steep section up to the false summit could benefit from an ice ax. There were a few skiers, but most were hucking up their skis and ski boots while wearing their hiking/mountaineering boots on the ascent. No one was skinning that we saw.

When you get to the top, you can walk about 4 minutes to a small chossy area to the climbers left and see the giant crack in the cornice. You can also see Rainier and Baker from here. Stay back – 1800’ drop! There was an absolutely amazing volunteer up there from St Helens Institute by the name of Andy. He walked with us over there, gave us a geology lesson on the area, and was a sincerely amazing person. The highlight of the day and not to be missed, thanks to Andy, is from where you top out, if you go climbers right about 2 minutes, you will get to chossy rock landing, and from there you can safely see the crater rim, Spirit Lake, Rainier, Goat Rocks, Baker, Adams, and pretty much everything. It was unreal. So go climbers left for some views, but really climbers right is where it is at!

On the way down, there are some moderately icy spots, but not bad. Nothing at all to warrant traction devices for us. Also some hollow spots and cracks. Just watch your step. Great glissade shoots, but some have large rocks/boulders jotting into them now so keep an eye open. You can take the snow all the way down to the skiers right side of the Worm Flows Ridge to within about maybe 500 vert ft above Chocolate Falls, and gain the ridge to the main trail on Worm Flows easily. This is much easier descending than descending the chossy rock trail. On the descent, we almost entire stuck to snow up to this point. The skiers effectively did this from the summit as well and from my recollection, they said it was good sking. Although I did not ski, I am a backcountry skier and can see how this would be a great ski, but given that you aren't going to skin any of it up, it certainly is a lot more effort to haul up all that gear just for the descent.

Time -
- Car-to-summit took about 6h 15min including breaks about every hour.
- We spend about an hour on the top.
- 3 hours down to car
- Total time was just short of 10 hours

The official trail conditions are here - https://www.mshinstitute.org/explore/climbing-permits/current-conditions.html. Andy is the one who filled them out post-the-day we were up there.

I did find a Nalgene bottle at the bottom of a glissade chute around 7,000 ft. If you were there and lost one, let me know what the slogan was on it and if you want it mailed to you.


Thanks Andy the volunteer for being such a cool dude!

Enjoy!

Conditions: Muddy, Snow, Icy
Parking: Permit required, Entry fee, Free, Large lot
Difficulty: Hard