Team Cairn was up early on Mt. St. Helens last weekend to test and map out coverage points for Verizon, especially since cell coverage is affected by weather and we were expecting a storm. Decided to first try climbers bivouac parking lot and it was still closed 2 miles before so drove over to Marblemount which is snow free, there was only 3 other parties gearing up to climb. The trail is clear and well marked with Cairns and signs up to the worm flows where the tree line ends. After crossing the creek and climbing up on the ridge we encountered about a foot of fresh snow climbing through clouds, light snow, and occasional hail, with some cloud breaks. There are sections of the ridge higher up below the solar panel radio tower that are icy under the snow with exposure on the east side so be careful. Higher up we had to break trail in fresh snow and when the clouds cleared it warmed up quick with decent views but as soon as clouds came back we were in snow/cold. No one ahead of us made it to the summit and most turned around below 6500 feet where the snow track was completely filled in. We made it to ~7000 feet breaking trail, before calling it a day due to weather and increased avalanche risk. There was one party that passed us on the way down that might have summited as when the clouds cleared we saw them about 400 feet from summit. For more (including images and coverage data) check out our blog post . http://blog.cairnme.com/post/116303084794/mt-st-helens-cell-coverage

With the weather changing day to day as spring begins, it's difficult to provide a good idea on what to expect climbing this route. We read all the trip reports, checked the weather conditions daily and packed for just about every contingency, since it seems that all types of conditions have presented themselves on the mountain over the past few weeks. A couple of general comments: For anyone taking the time and effort to do this climb, leave early enough so that you can climb to the true summit, and also so that you can enjoy some time at the top, if you're lucky enough to have the weather that we did. We were surprised at how many people (approximately 20 for the day), just stopped at the rim before heading back down. Sure, after climbing almost 5,500 feet and being on the trail for five hours, it's tempting to stop, but the views are so much better for those willing to take the extra half hour to head west towards the true summit, or even heading east to the false summit. Only one other pair did this, while the remainder of the groups grouped together right at the rim. Snow covered the ground very soon after leaving the parking lot, but the blue-diamond marked path is easy to follow. Leaving the forest after two miles, and heading through the meadow/rocky area, the trail is pretty well marked with flags, wood poles and cairns. No water running in Swift Creek or Chocolate Falls demonstrates just how dry this year has been. There were a couple of routes up through the lava flows, which seemed to meet up just as the deeper snow presented itself right about where the cloud line ended and the clear skies began. Looking up, the sky couldn't be more blue and the snow couldn't be more white. With the fresh snow falling all week, the only blemishes on the mountain were a couple of track routes up. The majority of people heading up were using skis, and seemed to have an easier time than us, and the very few others, just climbing. The snow was fresh and deep, consistently coming up to shin level. The extra effort from going up in such deep snow necessitated plenty of short stops to catch a breath, but with the views as they were, we weren't complaining. We did not use crampons or micro-spikes at all. It took about 5 hours to reach the crater rim, and another half hour or so to get close to the summit. In another stroke of luck, there was very little wind at the summit, although it was still between 5 and 10 degrees. We used most of our layers at some point during the day, as we went from hot to cold, and cold to hot several times. The five liters of water that we brought for the two of us was just enough, and today was a good lesson in the counter-intuitive reality that you often sweat more when climbing in the snow and colder weather than in the summer. We were able to spend about an hour at the summit before heading down. The majority of our fellow climbers on the mountain skied or snow-boarded down, and were down the upper part of the mountain quickly. The sun slightly iced up a few ares of the slopes, but for the most part, the snow remained deep, and we were only able to glissade in a few spots. Most of the descent consisted of big steps down through the deep snow. As we got to the lava field, we looked back up the mountain and the pristine snow was now covered in boot tracks, ski tracks and board tracks - quite a difference from the smooth slopes of only a few hours ago. The sun, and I presume the warmer ground of being an active volcano, melted an incredible amount of snow over the course of the day. So much so, that coming out the last 2 1/2 miles was totally different from the hike up. The snow completely melted, the ground dried out, and the scenery and path were totally different. It was as if we were coming down a completely different route. We got to the car at about 5:30, for a 10 hour total hike, with an hour spent on top. After reading some of the recent trail reports, we feel very lucky to have experienced Mount St. Helens on a day of fresh snow and clear skies. Most of the people that we me,t camped at the parking lot or stayed nearby the night before (we stayed in Longview, which is about an hour and 10 minute drive from the trailhead). For those with the expertise and desire to climb the mountain in winter conditions (while it's not a technical climb, it's still pretty good elevation gain for one day, and being prepared to use crampons and an ice axe in case conditions warrant are a must), it is certainly worth the trip. While registering for our permits, I noticed that almost every weekend in spring, summer, and fall, and many of the weekdays are already fully booked, which is 500 people per day. To experience this natural treasure with so few people around is truly a rewarding experience.

We left the trailhead around 07:00. The trail was dry and in good condition. There was some snow and mud once you cross Trail #216 and get on the rocky ridgeline. Above that ridgeline were snow fields. We encountered firm, cruchy snow. About 7000' or so, the snow was more wind blown and icy. Two friends made it up with microspikes. One used poles and two of us had ice axes. I made it most of the way with just mountaineering boots but put on crampons when things got icier toward the top. There was a white-out and high winds in the last 1000' but they cleared before we made the crater rim. Views were lovely. The wind was moderate at the top. It did actually get below freezing above 7000'. The snow was somewhat slushy heading down. I would not recommend starting late. In the afternoon, the "path" through the snow was wet and chewed up by descending climbers. I would recommend mountaineering boots, crampons, and ice axes but it can be done with less. Bring layers.

We showed up Tuesday the 24th with no issues. We were able to self-issue permits at the Marble Mountain Sno-Park and even find a campsite there. We slept in our tent through a downpour all night and started at 0845 Wednesday morning in a foggy drizzle and heavy winds. The first couple of miles were easy; shallow incline, muddy but simple trail. After the first couple of miles things got steeper and the snow was more consistent so we put on microspikes/crampons which did the trick. Unfortunately, the recent rain had turned the snow into slush and the spikes could only help so much. Once we broke through the treeline we could barely see 200 ft ahead due to the low clouds making the summit impossible to see. I had to get out a compass to ensure we were headed North. Snow had fallen between the rocks but not covered them. The snow here was slushy as well. There wasn't enough snow to cover the rocks and use snowshoes, which we had brought, but there was enough to fill in the gaps making footing impossible. With this amount of slushy snow, we couldn't tell where we could step, leading to multiple post-holes, rolled ankles, and wipe-outs. The combination of slushy snow, low visibility, and risk of injury prompted us to turn around halfway up. We are two experienced, well-equipped mountaineers and knew better to turn around.I would advise anyone to wait until the weather is clear and trail is passable. Heavy clouds means rescue helicopters may not be able to fly. It was still worth a shot and we'll be back soon.

Started at 4:30am - returned at 1:30pm. Beautiful weather, Snow above 5500-6000 feet, about the weather station location, maybe a little below. Snow was pretty soft even in early morning, by mid day it was sloppy, but glissading was still viable. Trail is easily identifiable, micro-spikes or crampons needed at the upper portion (last 1500 feet elevation or so and for walking the crater rim to summit.