We decided to escape Ski to Sea hubbub this holiday weekend (Memorial Day) and wanted a quiet and secluded place to spend a few nights in the mountains. But this time of year doesn’t usually afford many backcountry options. Surprise! We were stunned to discover that the Necklace Valley is free of snow so early in the year. We reached the trailhead around 9:30 a.m., braced for a parking lot full of cars, but only found ~8. On the hike up, we passed at least 2 parties headed down, so we knew our odds of finding a campsite were good.
Reached Jade Lake around 3 p.m. (those last 3 miles are grueling!). From Jade Lake onward, the trail is very mucky, sometimes with mud 4 in. deep. Please practice good trail etiquette and go through it, rather than widening the trail by stepping around the edges.
The lakes were completely socked in by clouds when we arrived, and stayed that way all 3 days. Although it never rained, it did “cloud” on us several times, covering the brush and our tent in a fine damp mist. On Saturday we had a brief 15 min window when the clouds lifted and we could see blue sky and the surrounding cliffs (oh my!), and on Sunday the clouds lifted (but didn’t clear) for about 1.5 hours, so we could see up valley. Otherwise gray and low clouds, so we missed much of the grandeur of this area. But it was quiet, and the lakes were lovely all on their own.
The cool damp weather kept the mosquitos subdued, but we could see them everywhere. If it had been warm and sunny, I think they would have been a serious nuisance.
Most people had set up camp near the cabin between Jade and Emerald. We saw 4-5 campsites here, and all were in use, and none very private. We hike with dogs and prefer secluded spots, so we kept looking, and had a tentative plan to find a campsite at Jewel, which we assumed would be less frequented. After crossing the inflow to Jade, we followed a trail that felt westward, and we thought we were headed toward Al/Locket/Jewel. It was only when we reached the meadows/marshes at the end of Opal Lake and saw that the trail continued up valley rather than down, that we realized we were still on the main trail and had missed the turnoff for Al/Locket/Jewel a long time ago. The low cloud cover made it impossible to see surrounding features and left us a bit disoriented.
No matter, we found a stunning campsite on a ledge between Opal and Cloudy lakes, and not a single person passed our camp during the 3 days we spent there.
On day 2, we day hiked around the valley and finally found the trail for Al and Locket. Once we found it, this trail was easy to follow around Al (where there are 2 stunning campsites), and partway around Locket (where we only saw 1 campsite), but we lost it against some cliffs halfway around Locket. We never found Jewel Lake. It’s a rare day that we give up on a destination, so point for Jewel! If anyone knows how to get there, I’d like to hear how you did it.
In the afternoon the clouds were higher, so we headed back up valley on the main trail (after a brief stop at Ilswoot for good measure), and then climbed up through the beautiful talus and boulder fields toward Foehn Lakes. Note, there’s a meadow above Opal Lake on the way up to Foehn, and there are a couple of good campsites. After the meadow, the route climbs steeply up the slope and is clearly marked by cairns. There was a lot of avalanche debris on the route, which had JUST melted out. One hard rain will wash off much of the slippery sand and debris that covers the boulders. We stopped our ascent at a saddle around 5400 feet, where we noted the sketchy route up to La Bohn lakes and decided we might not need to ever go there. Looking up the slope toward Foehn Lakes, we could see a snow field about 100 feet above, but I think you could have reached the lakes without much trouble. In 2 more weeks, the snow will be completely gone.
I’ve never been to Necklace Valley before, so there were a few things that surprised me that might be worth noting: 1. From looking at a topo map, you might expect to find campsites everywhere. This is not so. Although there are large areas that a topo map would consider flat, they are in reality very lumpy and rolling. If this area is as popular in the summer as I suspect, I’m not sure where everyone camps. You might have to get cozy with your neighbor. 2. The “official” trail isn’t signed beyond Jade Lake, and social trails split and reunite with it for miles up valley. It was hard to believe it was the main trail. 3. The trail splits west to go to Al/Locket/Jewel right by the cabin. It’s not signed.