Short version – we failed our ambitious one day loop goal on a minor technical detail of it taking almost 25 hours.
Long version started at 4 am on Saturday morning with me and two very brave companions who, apparently, don’t read my callouts carefully enough.
We started at West Foss River trailhead at 6:30 am with the first rays of sun poking through the forest. I actually found the forest walk part very entertaining. The forest there is very much alive, wet and green, nothing like dead dry trees you often see on the east slopes of Cascade Mountains. There are many wild mushrooms and berries and many animals – chipmunks, chickarees, frogs, mice and tons of pikas. And, yeah, some huge trees.
Alpine lakes (as soon as you get to them) are just amazing too. They have cleanest bluest water and it gets only cleaner and bluer with every next lake. And there are really many of them too. And finally they are huge, especially Big Heart and Angeline. Sometimes it feels like you are walking on an actual sea with mountains just poking out of water like islands. But why do alpine lakes only have female names? I’ve never seen a lake called Bob for some reason.
Without any adventures we soon reached the Big Heart Lake and the trail end. From there to the trail end of Necklace Valley trail I only had very approximate route registered on my GPS. I have drawn this route myself on a map from reading reports and following the topography. I generally tend to invent routes based on following ridges and also find that climbing up is easier than going down. So of we went on tiny overgrown boot track to the top of the ridge between Big Heart and Angeline. This is probably left by campers just searching for an optimal viewpoint for two lakes. And it is! On the top of this ridge we got to the point where we could see both huge lakes, almost as blue and pretty as the Crater Lake in Oregon.
From this ridge we dropped down all the way to where Chatwood lake outflows into Angeline Lake, almost to the Angeline Lake level. Next we scrambled back to the top on a very steep avalanche chute. We got to the land of granite, snowfields and boulders. On one of the snow fields Deep slipped and slide down a few feet into a huge hole, where the rock was poking out of the snow. Fortunately he was not hurt, but after this incident he because understandable cautious of snow. We tried to avoid snowfields and only do boulder hopping and this made us even slower, cause boulders are hard (this time of year ice is hard too, but easier to walk on).
Oh, and the mosquitos. I try not to use bug repellents as I consider myself to be their friend. As you know only female mosquitos drink blood and they only need for reproduction. Obviously I cannot refuse girls and I feel moral duty to help young mothers too. I also think people should really be proud that a wild animal like this even considers us humans for such an important role in its life as reproduction. Finally I don’t think killing mosquitos helps anyway. So I just try to bear with it. It was not easy. My body was covered with mosquitos at all times. Around the lakes, on the stones and on the glacial ice too. Some of them are stupid and would fly into my mouth and try to bite me inside too. And finally they would get into pictures all the time. I was appalled to see that mosquitos, just like humans, are eager to use completely unsustainable harvesting practices for their food. Hey, mosquitos, what gives?
Finally following the ridge we entered a huge granite circle with an Iron Cap lake inside. This place is magic and desolate. Only lots of snow and ice, deep blue water, glacier-polished granite and broken stones all around. There is no single sign of vegetation anywhere the eyes can see. And yet there were two hoary marmots looking at us from the rocks!
We dropped to the Iron Cap lake, touched the water and scrambled back up to the ridge. Boulder hopped all around Iron Cap mountain, dropped again and started on another ridge up to where Tank Lakes should be. Storm clouds where coming to the sky. It was 7 and soon became dark. Very dark, with no moon or stars. It is actually quite difficult to scramble in darkness. Well, maybe not. Some things are actually easier, cause you cannot see how exposed you are. But headlamps don’t give enough light to see where you are going too, so it is easy to get stuck under some walls you cannot climb. It took us three attempts of scrambling up and back down again before we could find a successful way up to the ridge. At the top we stopped to filter water from a small tarn. It is hard to see in the darkness and my GPS got accidentally dropped into the lake. Fortunately I didn’t loose it, but let me tell you something about my GPS. It was on a lot of adventures. It’s life is hard. On one of trips it got dropped on a rock so hard that some plastic part came off. The thing works still, but it is not waterproof anymore.
After dropping into the lake it stopped working. Here we are, in darkness, in the middle of nowhere with no map or compass, no food and no camping gear. It is quite cold too. There is a lot of snow around. To make things even better storm finally came and brought rain, heavy wind and lots of lightning. At this point we really wanted to call 911, which would be both embarrassing (considering two out of three on this hike are SAR volunteers) and impossible (because there is no cellphone reception in the wilderness). Staying in one place was also not an option, because we could freeze. I was thinking of starting a fire too, but it is quite hard to find burnable wood when it pours rain… on top of a snowfield… with only granite around.
So we wondered sometime around and around. From our last position I knew we are only .5 miles away from Tank lakes. Finally, I managed to find Tank lake in the darkness, matching its image with the what I have seen on the internet. More good luck followed and I managed to dry up my GPS a little and make it work again! With it we hopped on the boulder fields all the way down along the creek to the Opal Lake (we figured out that the creek has no choice but to lead us to it) and Necklace Valley trail end. It was around 1 am and we still had 9 miles to go to the car. Unfortunately the walk was slow. It was not difficult or tiresome, but I just felt so sleepy that my eyes would close automatically and stop registering the trail. I have no idea what happened or for how long but at some point I woke up to see three people (including myself) just sleeping dead dropped across the trail on bare earth. It could be 15 minutes only sleep, but somehow it helped a lot. With the new energy we managed to cover last two miles to the car and drive back to the city. We walked out to the trailhead a few minutes past 7 with the first light of sun poking through heavy rain, almost exactly the same as we started the trip, but almost 25 hours later.
My poor GPS registered 29.5 miles of walking, including whooping 19K feet of cumulative elevation gain from all the scrambling up and down. I proposed to go back immediately cause we have not really seen half of the lakes due to darkness, but somehow I didn’t get any enthusiastic response this time. And so we drove back.