Aug 30, 2008: La Bohn Gap The past few weeks I have been working my way westwards in the Mount Daniel-Mount Hinman region: Pea Soup Lake, then the West Foss River valley to Iron Cap Lake...now, La Bohn Lakes completes the trilogy. It is an amazing area and La Bohn Gap is a spectacular setting: craggy cliff faces, beautiful lakes and tarns, waterfalls and heather slopes dotting pristine white granite. Last year, I had looked over at La Bohn Gap as I climbed up to Tank Lakes across the valley. Clouds had been boiling through the gap and spilling over into Necklace Valley. The setting had looked spectacular, so I had vowed to return. I began the hike from the Necklace Valley trailhead at 4:00am, hiking for the first hour and a half by headlamp. The brush was laden with fat droplets of water, just begging to be released at the slightest touch. As the light brightened my spirits quailed as I saw heavy mist hanging in the narrowing valley: “Oh no! Not another rainy hike.” Well, rainy it was going to be...and then some. The first 5mi through quite pretty lush-green forest (which I enjoyed on the way back, when I could see it) were easy. Then, as I crossed the East Fork Foss River, it was a difficult next 3mi; wet roots, slick rocks and copious amounts of mud on a steep grade were all over me like a cheap suit. Finally, at the 8mi mark I reached peaceful Jade Lake, the first of the Necklace Valley lakes. I decompressed for a bit and then headed up to the beautiful basin at the head of the valley. Looming high above me was La Bohn Gap and, just like the previous time, clouds hung in the saddle. Streams and talus fields cut through the basin meadow. I picked my way through the meadow and then began to ascend steeply up the talus strewn slopes. Necklace Valley, still sleeping peacefully under dark and angry skies was soon arrayed below me with Lake Ilswoot, far off in the distance, a brilliant splash of blue. Across the valley the Tank Lakes region rekindled some fond memories though these were soon forgotten as I gawked at La Bohn Gap and the crags of La Bohn Peak. Lots more work and finally I was in the heavenly La Bohn Lakes basin. The rain abated for a bit and even a few fleeting (very fleeting) patches of blue skies appeared - it seemed that God was with me and all was right with the world. I spent 2 hours wandering around the lakes, before heading over towards Chain Lakes. Unfortunately, around this time it started to snow (quite heavily at times, though it wasn’t sticking) so that was that. I turned around, picked my way carefully down the steep descent back into Necklace Valley, and then even more carefully along the muddy and completely saturated trail back to the car. Additional Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani/sets/72157607047254400 Cumulative stats: - Distance: ~22mi - Elevation gain: 5,500ft - Hiking time: 14hrs - Total trip time: 17.5hrs Trail conditions: - Extremely muddy conditions; slick rocks and roots made for slow going. - No bugs. - Snowing, though not sticking, at La Bohn Gap; Yup, this is summer in the Northwest. - Rained for most of the hike; brush alongside the trail was completely wet, so I never took my rain-gear off.

My goal was the Tank Lakes above the Necklace Valley, but I only made it to the end of the valley due to poor planning (took longer than I thought), exhaustion, and MOSQUITOES ! The first 4+ miles of the trail is an up and down wooded trail that crosses several streams and begins to give you a taste of the bugs to come. The next 3 miles take you up one of the worst ‘trails’ I’ve been on. Roots, rocks, wet, overgrown, bugs, and straight up with no switchbacks. When the trail sort of levels out at the entrance to the Necklace Valley, the major bug attack starts. The trail then goes by 3 lakes and then ends with up options for La Bohn lakes or Tank Lakes. The lakes and the valley are beautiful, but the boggy areas and the wetness of the valley are a great breeding ground for mosquitoes. I met a man and his son who were on the way out after spending the previous day and night ‘hiding in our tent’. At the end of the valley, I could see the 1000 feet I needed to travel to the tank lakes and decided to just camp in the valley. The next morning I awoke to a howling wind that made breakfast a wonderful experience without inhaling bugs. The sunrise was spectacular and the weather warm. On the trail out, I passed 5 groups headed up – all saying they were going to the tank lakes. I didn’t say anything. I will return later in the fall when the weather turns colder and perhaps the bugs will have had their fill for the year.

Trail starts very easy for the first 5 miles, park-like at times if not a little boring even. Meandering along the East fork of the Foss River. When you get to the foot bridge at the 5 Mile mark take a rest as your trail is about to change. Just after the bridge over the Foss you hit a log that looks like it goes into a rocky area. Look close you will see some Cairns marking the trail up. From here you test your boots, thighs and ankles as you head up and up and up. The trail is ok in spots but about where the flimsy foot bridge is it gets tougher- many roots and muddy trail impede your progress. The problem with the uphill portion of this trail is the lack of switchbacks, the trade-off being that you make a faster go with each step. You eventually break out at the outfeed of Jade Lake. We were going to Ilswoot which is rather hard to find, the best way to describe getting there is go to the outfeed of Emerald Lake cross the logs and rocks piled into a foot bridge,turn right about 30 yards then left and you will see it down in a valley to the East. Beautiful and hidden is this little gem of a lake. Very few tent spots here the best being the first one you come to. Had some clouds and mist most of Saturday night, very cool evening, woke to sun and warmth (of course only-when you are leaving) Fair amount of people given the distance from the trailhead. Took us 6 hours to get up and 3-1/2 to get back, we kept a pace that appeared at times like an organized fall rather than a hike. 16.7 miles total round trip. Only wild life seen were my friends the Mosquitoes- and they are always welcome at my camp :o)

More like early spring than midsummer. Lowland forest wildflowers in full bloom. Bugs & flowers go together, remember. Unnamed heroes have removed virtually all windfall, one of them 3' [see photo, loud cheer]. Just before the log crossing the E. Fork Foss is a campsite with a few pieces of ancient machinery (Pat. 1897); see if you can figure out what they are. Trail to here is a lovely, fragrant lowland forest walk. After the crossing, the honeymoon is over and the trail gets rougher as it climbs the old glacial sidewall into the stunning hanging valley. Rocks, roots, water on trail, old puncheon turning to soil. Snow starts above 4000', just before Jade Lake; it's firm, no post-holing, and melting fast, not a serious impediment if you're OK with snow. At about 3800', the trail crosses the stream on a log bridge that is potentially dangerous at high water (i.e., now) and the handrail is just a trap; I belayed the dog although the footing is easy when it's dry [see photo]. Jade lake had some open water, but for a week or two yet you could get really wet if you slip there. Opal Lake is 1/2 open. Trail kind of hard to follow here but you don't need it, it's snow travel still. Know how to use your compass if visibility is poor. Locket Lake is nearly open. Snow conditions were firm but not too hard, ideal for ascent up the snow chute to La Bohn Lakes; steep, ice axe required, but not crampons yet. In later season, this is a much less pleasant talus slog and scramble (ascends talus, then curves left and follows the outfall). La Bohn Lakes completely frozen. One can camp on snow, or there is at least one marginal site for a tiny tent on bare bedrock for a near-zero-impact bivvy. Please avoid moving rocks; this creates permanent unsightly scars. Snow travel conditions for ascent of Hinman or skiing are ideal. Tank Lakes/Foehn Lakes area still has lots of snow, but if you don't mind this, it's a great time to be there, and maybe an easier ascent than on the talus later on. I had time to remove several small logs, rocks, brush, windfall debris, and open some drains. A couple strong parties I passed hadn't bothered. Consider: if we all form the habit of just a little do-it-yourself trail maintenance, these trails would practically take care of themselves. A 3"" locking blade with a 1.25"" serated section allowed me to clear many branches up to 2.5"". Salute to the trail crews; the Necklace Valley trail has seen some great recent work. My original plan had been the Alpine Lakes High Route from the West Fork Foss R., but I'd worried about the washed-out river crossing there at high water. Recent front-page press about poor kids needing summer work; there's plenty to be done out here. Write your senators and congress people; there are more worthwhile things than tax cuts for the super-rich.

Necklace Valley #1062 June 25 2008 We left around 12:30pm on a sunny day, about 70 degrees. At about 3 miles in, we ran into a series of fallen trees that had completely covered the path. At the 5 miles point we camped on the flattest ground we could find. Bug rating on the way in: 2/10 (one bug landing on you every 5 minutes) Dropping the gear at the 5 miles point, we hiked up toward the lakes at about 4pm. Steep climb, ran into snow cover at mile 6, just before the branch-off of the river. The trail disappeared at this point and we wandered up the riverbank until it was too dark to return and make camp. Just as you reach the first of the snow cover (at the top of the steep climb) the trail continues a little more to the right than you'd think. Look for the saw-cut logs as a marker. The trail picks up again for 200 yards, then you reach a point where a lot of wood cutting had been done. Beyond this point, the trail is unnoticeable - but looking at a map we can see that it crosses the river almost immediately. Cold night camped at 5 mile point. Headed out around 9am. Lots of bugs in the late morning. Sunny, but not much sun comes through the trees as you traverse the 5 miles back to the trailhead. Bug rating on the way out: 8/10 (one bug landing on you every 15 seconds) Enjoyable all-around, will go back when snow has melted more. Saw volunteer crews out on the way back working on the small stuff that had fallen between trailhead and mile 3. Thanks to you all.