My brother and I arrived at the trailhead at 8:30 to partly cloudy skies, and on and off sprinkles all day. The trail is in decent shape. I would estimate about twenty blow-downs, all of which you can over or under wthout much effort. Only minor water and mud on the trail, and most of that in one stretch at about 4 miles. The first five miles to the river crossing are not steep at all. The bridge is damaged, but passable. The first mile after the bridge crossing is very steep. The snow begins at the 6th mile. We turned around shortly thereafter. The sun came out for thirty minutes as we began our descent, but from about mile 4 to mile 2 we were downpoured on. The wildflowers are many. The spring foliage is spectacular, especially the last mile or two before the bridge on the way in. The loudest woodpecker on earth lives near the swamp at about 2 miles. We thought someone was pounding large nails on a wooded hillside above the trail. Mosquitos were present, but not thick. The highlight of the day (for my brother anyway) was my postholing, heading back down in about two and a half feet of snow; and then falling, head first. It must have looked pretty funny, especially my pack rolling over my head. We saw no other hikers this day. I'm glad no one else saw that.

I went hiking Sunday with my friend Craig and Daisy the Spoiled Wonder Dog, and we went up the East Fork Foss river. After stopping at the Sultan Bakery for the world's best breakfast sandwiches and pastries, we parked at the Tonga Ridge road junction due to deepening snow and walked the half-mile to the regular trailhead. There was snow on the trail the whole way, starting at maybe six inches and increasing to about three feet at the more open sections after the 2,000ft level is reached. No snowshoes were needed, since there is a semi-packed trail to follow and the snow depth is inconsistent. It was a bit of a Cascade concrete trudge, probably 50% harder than the same hike in summer. We encountered some blowdowns and brushy obstacles, and even had to go hands-and-knees under one tree, but nothing too bad. I rejoiced at the Alpine Lakes Wilderness sign, which was about two miles into the hike. We came to a section of the trail that had a stream flowing on it, so we took a 15 minute trail-repair break. We dug some rocks, sticks and leaves out of the proper stream channel and used them to dam up the water coming down the trail, to marvelous effect. On our return later, the trail was dry and the stream had resumed its natural course. The open meadowy/swampy area was pretty cool, with wispy fog rolling down the valley. We went in to the three mile point from the regular trailhead where the best views of the valley are and took an hour break to take some pictures. We got back 3 1/2 miles to the car in just two hours, a Sluggish record for snow speed. We went seven miles in six hours, with about 800 VF gross round-trip. The weather was perfect- no rain and a little sun.

With the promising weather report and the season for backpacking nearing an end, I decided to spend two nights in Necklace Valley to do a little photography. The last time I had been there was when I was 10 years old with the family. This time I was alone. There was only one other car at the trailhead when I got there. The first 5 miles was easy hiking and beautiful fall colors still in the trees and on the ground. At the river crossing the effects of the tremendous rainfall we received was evident. Several good size logs had crashed into the bridge knocking part of the railing off and creating some tricky crossing. The bridge itself is still ok, but you have to navigate the logs that lie accross it(slippery when wet). After that the fun really begins with the character building climb over the rocky, rooty, and in places muddy trail for three steep miles to the valley. Passed the only other people on their way out, leaving me the only person up there. I continued on to Foehn Lakes to camp so I had a good vantage point to do some evening and morning photography. I wandered to Tank Lakes for dinner awaiting the sunset which was amazing. Alpenglow hit the peaks to the east making for some beautiful pictures and reflections in the enless ponds within the maze of granite. Well worth the pain inflicted by the climb. I was hoping for some aurora later that evening as predicted but I guess it wasn't to be. Woke up the next morning to watch and photograph the sunrise, then started going around the west side of La Bohn gap to reach Chain and La Bohn lakes. I attained a small saddle for a view north on my way and observed the buildup of lenticular clouds, together with high winds, and dissapearing peaks. My experience told me that weather was about to go down the toilet, so I scrambled down, packed up camp and headed out a day early for fear of hiking 10 miles back in the rain. When I got back to my truck, I learned that my instincts were correct, and that rain was to settle in the area by midnight. Can't wait to go back next year, but hopefully with one other person to share some of the load.

The Necklace Valley trail may well be the Grand Dame of Alpine Lakes Trails. It is also a bit like a long life well lived, but in reverse. Although the trail can be done in a day, three is probably best(with a Friday evening start?) , given the superb roaming country in the Valley and beyond. Manning and Spring list the distance as 8 miles one way, but the Green Trails totals out at 8.7, if I recall correctly. They are not all quick miles. The trail starts out with a mellow climb on what appears to be an ancient rail grade - perhaps as old as 70 or 80 years based on the size of the trees growing on it. I in fact didn't even notice that it was a previous mechanical ROW until the return. This was confirmed by a few large cutting notches on a couple of very large stumps. After leaving the graded section the trail does rollercoaster a little bit, but is still quite nice in the total five miles to the creek crossing. Fall color was begining today in the Vine Maple just about where the trail starts to open up. It has not started in the few Birch (?) groves yet. There are 3 River camps, and at this water level you could also camp on the sand and gravel bar at the river crossing. After an easy river crossing (at this water level - probably is still bad at the peak of snow melt) the trail crosses a talus slope, beginning on a well prepared log, much like the bridge over the river. Seemingly this log path ends in the middle of a talus slope, with no further markings. Upon further inspection their is a path marked by talus and sawdust bearing slightly down canyon. The old trail is rejoined within 25 yards or so. It is here where the trail gets steep, entering, following my metaphor, the hard grind of early adulthood. Vine Maples at the upper part of this section are in full fall color. The trail flattens out for a short distance followed by a creek crossing. The toughest section of the trail begins, first rough and rambunctious as a teenager it gets worse as you go on - even getting as wet as a newborn at points - and putting you on all fours! By the time you reach the Nesby bridge you have gotten through the worst long section, though there are still a few bad patches to come, as well as a bit more distance than you might think. Jade Lake is finally reached. Day Hikers may view this as their destination, but it is really just the front door to a magnificent area. I camped at the East Shore of Emerald and promptly fell asleep. In the morning I had time for a short ramble and headed to the head of the Valley, returning via it's Eastern side and Clowdy and Ilwoot Lakes. Although the going is fairly straightforward to the lower end of Clowdy on the numerous foot paths in the Valley I did not discover a good path from Clowdy to Ilwoot. It may be possible to descend to Ilwoot over rocks, but then again your way might be blocked by cliffs. As it was I ended up bushwacking over a ridge and climbing down about 30' of pine needle covered cliff before reaching my camp. Clowdy Lake is worth visiting on the return from the upper valley, but I would recommend heading back to the main trail at the upper end of Opal, the third lake. The return can be tough on the knees. On the descent trekking poles really earn their keep, cushioning the steep descent, as well as helping you to keep your footing. Many of the roots crossing the trail are pock marked with carbide tip punch marks the resemble woodpecker holes. Oh, and yes, it is definitely worth it - and if it was ever fixed it would probably be mobbed to death. -D.L.

I would not do this trip to visit only the Necklace Valley since the trail is downright long, dull, rooty, muddy and miserable. The lakes are not the greatest and neither are the views. Access to nicer areas make this hike worthwhile, however. Tank Lakes is as nice a place as The Alpine Lakes area offers the cross country roamer. At the end of the valley just below LaBohn Gap, go right and up rocks until reaching a valley containing the Pendant Glacier. You eventually reach a pass and wonderful parkland at about 5,800 ft. similer to The Enchantments. Dozens of small lakelets and granite slabs along with views across the Middle Fork valley to the Dutch Miller Gap area make this large plateau a magic wonderland. From the head of the valley,scramble up LaBohn Gap for a climb of mighty Mt. Hinnman. The valley is an o.k. place when the bugs are gone, but I see it as a great base for exploring.