The soft, shady five mile trail punctuated by the riffles of the East Fork Foss River lulls one into a false sense of comfort and ease that is swiftly dispelled as soon as the real approach to higher country is reached, soon after the river crossing on a well-constructed log bridge and a 100 meter talus slope marked with a few cairns. A reasonable, straight ahead trail for the next mile or so and then a brutal slog up a creek bed that is more strenuous than the Rachel Lake trail (which it somewhat resembles - tree roots, boulders, mud holes and all), by a factor of at least five. Although we admired the fortitude of Brad S. in the 9/3 trip report, this is obviously not a trek for day-trippers. It is a minimum 5 1/2 hour hike to Jade Lake. On this exquisite weekend, we saw only two souls, and the area felt very remote and lonely. We wondered whether a trail requiring this degree of effort is simply being out-competed by those more accessible. After Jade Lake we passed the Shelter Cabin (built in 1950 and still in good shape) and picked a campsite at Emerald Lake with views to La Bohn Gap and 7000' Bear's Breast Mountain at the head of the valley. ( Note: there is a well-hidden throne toilet just above the west side of the lake that we wish we had known about.) The valley itself is braided with fisherperson's paths to every possible site of water. Bug season is well past, but it was below freezing on this clear night and we could almost hear Mars pass in the night. The next day we followed the Necklace Valley trail to the terminus and ascended a rugged 300 meter talus slope to the southeast populated with firm granite blocks to the rock solid ice fields below Bear's Breast. Then more scrambling from ledge to ledge until we realized we had reached the Chain Lakes. This is magical territory of tarns and white granite. Had we explored further, we would have come across the archeological evidence of mining history, but espying the apparent route to the gap, we pushed ahead to the breakthrough views of Little Big Chief, Summit Chief and Overcoat, replete with glaciers. Almost immediately we came upon Williams Lake, surrounded by amphitheaters and fallen columns of granite like a ruined Roman city. We could have made it down a trail to Dutch Miller Gap if we had had a bit more time. This area really begs for roaming, and we regretted that we had to return from our weekend. From Emerald to Williams Lake took nearly two hours of travel and is not to be attempted in foul weather, but on this flawless day we felt truly rewarded. The route back to the trailhead was nearly as punishing as the approach and my intrepid partner took a painful spill on a wet log over a creek crossing at the bottom of the first talus slope on the way back to the flats. Watch it! In the darkening forest a pair of owls ushered us out. As tired as we were, we were amazed at our final human encounter with a 70 year old German man who was embarking on a near loop trip from Necklace Valley to Chetwoot Lake, Big Heart Lake and returning on the Foss Lakes Trail. We salute you, friend.

Great day to revisit Necklace Valley and LaBohn Gap. I had been here 3 or 4 yrs ago on a backpack, but this time was a Labor Day only stroll. However, now I know why I overnighted it the last time - this is a LONG stroll for a dayhike! Left TH # 1062 @ 7:30am, Foss R. log crossing about 10am, then huff it up the 'grind' - bring poles (and lots of water) to make it easier. Passed Jade Lk.,shelter cabin, Emerald Lk., then up to LaBohn Gap. Scramble up the scree (more like largish and sound granite) up to top of the Gap, then around the remaining small snow patch at saddle between Bears Breast Mtn. 2pm - admired view and lunch - then snooze till 3ish. Started trip back down @3:30. Back on the flats (log crossing point) at 5pm. Then the long 4.5 - 5 miles that seem like forever back down the valley. Back at TH 7:45 and that was at a good pace. Estimate 18+ miles RT for the day - I was beat! But the scenery is worth it. Trail is in good condition, if a bit dusty from the endless dry summer - those twigs just 'snap' underfoot. The section going up into Necklace Valley in shady spots was tad muddy with creek runnoff. Sunny, warm (almost hot, 80's). Bugs minimal - near the end of their season I imagine.

I promised some folks (a dad, his 10-year-old son, and a couple more guys) we met coming down near Trout Lake that I would leave a report if we made it all the way over to Necklace Valley. We'll here's the report: For years I have dreamed about making a loop trip from Copper Lake up and over to Necklace Valley. I have taken each of my sons (Rock Sushi - 16 & Rock Hopper - 13) on annual multi-day backpacking trips since they were about 7 or 8, always one son at a time. (Hint: That way I got two trips every summer :), and fantastic one-on-one time with each on my sons, plus I got to share their gear!) This year's trip was the first time both boys and dad planned out a trip together. So when I suggested the loop trip from Copper to Necklace, they loved the idea. We took four days, Thursday to Sunday and approximately 25 miles. In 30 years of backpacking this was the most rewarding trip that I have ever taken…..Scenery, Challenge, Solitude, Route-Finding, and best of all Father-Son bonding. After unloading our packs at the Copper Lake trailhead, my 16-year-old drove my truck back to the trailhead for Necklace Valley and then walked the 2 1/2 miles back to us. (Hey, he's young and strong!) The trek up to Copper is always hot under a noon sun but the real fun starts past Copper. Easy stroll up to Little Heart Lake and then up and over a ridge to Big Heart Lake, where there are a few decent camp sites. Only one other party at Big Heart and they packed up a 16 pound rubber raft!!!! While they had fresh trout for dinner we made it an early evening in anticipation of the next days adventures. Contrary to the what the fisherman at Big Heart told us, ""the only way up to Chetwoot Lake is by boat to the end of Big Heart and then scramble over the ridge"" there is a very interesting trail up over the steep ridge down to a saddle, then up and down again to Chetwoot Lake (4905 ft). We had the entire basin to ourselves. While my 13-year fished, my other son made lunch and I studied the topos on the best cross-country route to Necklace Valley. I decided to head up to about 5400 to 5600 feet and head East around a ridge then back up and down a draw to Little Chetwoot Lake (5400 ft). Nothing to technical, just a whole lot of boulder hopping and side hilling. We were able to get some incredible views down the valley north towards Azure and Angeline Lakes. From Little Chetwoot Lake you look SE up to Iron Cap Mt and the route we chose was again gaining elevation to between 5600 and 5800 feet, traversing around the North shoulder of the mountain, hopefully finding a suitable route through the cliff bands and then traversing SE to a saddle before gaining the final elevation up a ridge to the Tank Lakes area. There were a few scattered cairns along this route but mostly just route finding. The passage through the cliff bands along the NE side of Iron Cap was both very challenging and frightening, especially with two teenage sons and a wife to answer too! Once around the extremely steep sections and heading back SE across the huge boulder fields, a couple of minor snow fields, the route was easier and there were a few well placed cairns. From the saddle, 5400 feet, there were incredible views of Mt Hinman and Mt Daniel. Unfortunately a weather system was pushing its way East directly towards us, so we took a short break and continued on. The route turns NE up a ridge, again tricky route finding, and then finally up to the desolate, granite filled basin on Tank Lakes. I initially told my sons that we would be having lunch at Tank Lakes. We left Big Heart Lake at 8:30 and did not reach Tank Lakes until 5:00! We headed through the saddle and dropped down to Foehn Lakes (5700 ft) and made camp at 6 PM. We had less than an hour and a half and the entire area was fogged in! Safely in our tents, after chocolate pudding for desert, we literally said our prayers and thanked the Lord for our safe passage. What appears on the map to be a relatively straight foward cross-country route of around 7 miles, was actually very challenging with some very difficult route finding and it took us 9 1/2 hours!. The following morning brought more mist but after a leisurely breakfast we packed up and scrambled down to the head of Necklace Valley and visited a few of the lakes that my 16 year old and I had last visited when he was 11. We found our favorite campsite at Illswoot, spent a relaxing day fishing and laying around. After a fresh trout feast for dinner, more pudding, we laid on the big granite slabs and watched the stars, satellites, shooting stars, and the Milky Way light up the night sky. Sunday morning brought more sunshine. My 13-year old had to jump off this 15-foot cliff into the lake before we headed out. His reasoning, ""Just think what a cool picture this is going to make!"" It was very cool especially after he hit the water! By promising them Mexican food in Monroe, the 8 1/2-mile trip down and out the valley to my truck only took 3 1/2 hours. It was an incredible trip with my sons and an experience that we will share for a lifetime.

I took a couple days off work for a Thursday overnight trip to the Necklace Valley (I've wanted to get up there for about 20 years, but never made the trip…). Mine was the third car in the trailhead parking lot on Wednesday. The first 5 miles of the trail are relatively flat with some ups and downs. A bit brushy in places and hungry black flies when the pace gets too slow, but a nice walk overall. Then comes 3 miles up to the valley. Whoever designed this trail (was it designed by anyone??!?) obviously thought that switchbacks are for wimps. The trail turns vertical and scrambles up the mountainside. Up through rock piles, up through stream beds where occasional boot prints in the mud give encouragement that it's still the trail, up through overgrown brush. Up, up, up. You get the idea. It took me 5 1/2 hours to make the hike up and 4 1/2 hours back down on Friday. The Necklace valley is nice. Not as wonderful as I had expected, but that might be due to my exhaustion. Finding a camping spot was a challenge (though there were only two other parties up there), but I eventually stumbled onto the big rock camp spot halfway up Emerald Lake (after walking to the top of the valley in a futile search). The mosquitoes were very bad (not horrendous - I was able to eat outside the tent) and DEET seemed to confuse them. I didn't see anyone at all during the entire hike and ramble around Necklace Valley until around 6pm in the evening. Then was lucky enough to borrow a lighter from one of the other campers (I left with the 10 essentials, ""A six pack and four other things"" - but somehow forgot to bring fire). Having hot chicken and noodles was much better than the canned chicken and Pringles(tm) that I was facing before borrowing the lighter… During the night (at around 1:30am) there was a huge icefall/rockfall somewhere. The crashing and rumbling must have continued for a full minute. An awesome way to wake up in the middle of the night. The hike down was brutal and I met a lot of adventurous souls on their way up (there were 10 cars in the trailhead lot when I finished). And 4 days later my calves are still yipping when I got on and off the bus this morning…

Easily one of my favorite hikes. 5th time: 3 times as a backpack, this was the second time as a day hike. Started out Sunday at 6am. About 12 vehicles- 3 suvs!- good to see some of them out hiking (or is it?) Had the trail to myself ( and cleared cobwebs) til just below Jade. Trail in good shape- used my hands in a few places below Jade- but I would not call it a ""pack trail"" as noted on the topo map. Just plodded along without really stopping, so the bugs seemed fine. Blueberries. Flowering Bear Grass. A slug and two snakes. Two dogs (one loud) at Jade Lake. Went on up to LaBohn Lakes via the outlet route. Too relaxed to continue on up Hinman- plus the clouds seemed to be moving in and getting darker. Gazed over at LaBohn Gap, Bear's Breast, Chain Lakes, Chimney & Overcoat. Turned around at noon. No litter anywhere along the route. As always, those last five miles allow plenty of time for introspection. Trailhead at 5pm. I was met by someone needing jumper cables (second time in my last three trips!).