We decided to see if Ptarmigan Ridge was open yet, so we drove up to Artist Point and parked among a dozen cars, most filled with non-hikers just happy to soak in the views of Mt. Shuksan and Baker. We put on our gaiters and grabbed our trekking poles and headed to the southwest corner of the parking lot (nearest Mt. Baker), where we had to climb up and over a rather large and imposing wall of packed snow just to get to the trail. The trail itself was about half-covered in snow; a family of four without poles were navigating it fairly well with their dog on a leash. The trail remains level till 1.2 miles, where the Galena Chain Lakes loop forks right.
We decided to venture left a bit to see if Ptarmigan Ridge was accessible, but unless you have crampons, an ice axe, and lots of confidence, we only made it 1.5 miles down the trail before encountering what we considered a fairly precarious and extensive snowfield at 5200 ft. So back to the Chain Lakes loop, which itself was about 80% covered in snow, but as there weren't many exposed drop-offs, it somehow felt much safer to be hiking there. Plus, the views of Mt. Baker--when it decided to peek out from the clouds--was excellent and the lakes were beautiful with their cerulean blue chunks of melting ice.
We descended below Table Mountain into the basin by traversing across a snow field then found the trail again easily on the opposite side. The first lake is mostly still ice-covered, and the trail is quite muddy and slick, and in some places, rocky. Iceberg Lake is nearly entirely frozen but Hayes Lake, on the opposite side of the trail, is completely thawed out. After passing between these two lakes, we had to navigate up a snow field again and it took us a few minutes to relocate the trail, which passes between Table Mountain and Mt. Herman. Then it was up Herman Pass, which was entirely snow-covered but as the snow was soft, it made kicking steps straight up the hillside a cinch. Topping the pass, our eyes were wowed by fields of fluorescent pink heather below and countless waterfalls cascading from Table Mountain to disappear into snowbanks. The switchbacks were mostly covered in crumbling snow until we got to Bagley Lakes. Many of the snow bridges are melting out; in one step, Ken post-holed up to his thigh so be cautious in crossing.
Saw a mama ptarmigan and her two chicks running on the snow before us. One marmot, but no other wildlife. Bugs were minimal except at Iceberg Lake, where a few mosquitoes were biting.
We saw only one solo hiker and a group of four doing the entire loop, which despite being 75-80% snow-covered, is nevertheless very doable with gaiters, poles, and waterproof boots. A lot of people hiked up the short distance from Heather Meadows Visitor Center and stopped at Bagley Lakes. We decided to end our day at the Visitor Center and sent Peter and Ken up Wild Goose Trail to fetch the cars, which only took them 30 additional minutes and saved us a climb. (In hindsight, since we had two cars, leaving one at the Visitor Center and one at Artist Point would have made a lot of sense.)
STATS:
Round-trip Distance: 9 miles (Chain of Lakes loop)
Elevations: 5100 ft (trailhead at Artist Point), to 4400 ft at the lakes, back up to 5600 ft at Herman Pass
Features: tons of waterfalls, beautiful lakes and heather meadows, views of Shuksan, Baker, and the No. Cascades
Cautions: crumbling snow bridges, trail mostly still snow-covered