Ptarmigan Ridge at Mt. Baker 7/23/05
50 degrees with a strong west wind most of the day, is this summer ? In the North Cascades near this volcanic peak the answer is frequently yes. It actually was pleasant hiking weather all day. The clouds gradually broke up throughout the morning revealing more and more of the surrounding mountains, glaciers and valleys. By mid afternoon visibility was 40 miles with everything in full view except the top of Mt. Baker. We did get a brief glimpse of the summit during lunch at Camp Kiser.
Ptarmigan Ridge is on the east side of Baker and is at different times a very popular or remote trail depending on weather and snowpack. In 1999 and other heavy snow years it's a snowshoe trip all summer long. Even in light snow years (1992,1998,2001,2005) it still has some permanent summer snowfields to cross. Normally I wouldn't hike it till late Aug. or Sept. but in this snow starved year July was just fine. The trailhead is at Artists Point, a wonderfully scenic spot in it's own right. This is where the Mt. Baker hiway (SR542) finally ends, on a high alpine ridge line, with mountains and valleys all around. The views from the parking lot include Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan the two tallest and most beautiful mountains in the North Cascades. Four trails start from this spot and they are all very very good. Ptarmigan Ridge is the best one. It heads due west straight at Mt. Baker and stays well above tree line the whole way.
We started at 9:40 and had the trail to ourselves most of the trip. After the first mile and a half the first snow patches appeared. At 2 miles we met a family that was camping on the ridge and just finishing breakfast. At the 3.5 mile mark, just as we started onto our longest snow crossing, we saw a herd of mountain goats about 500 ft. above us in a little ridge top meadow. They were partly obscured by swirly clouds at first and then disappeared into a high grove of mountain hemlock. At this same spot we talked to a lone snowboarder who was also camping here on the biggest snowfield in the area. Since we were the first party on the trail we had some difficulty staying on the trail route where it was snow covered. No real problems though, since our map showed us the exact bearing to take. We walked between 1/2 and 2/3 of a mile total on snow.
There are no forests or rivers to see on this hike, but mountains and glaciers all around. A beautiful little turquoise lakelet is visible about 1/2 mile south of Camp Kiser. Several waterfalls thread down cliffs below Mt. Baker's eastern glaciers. Some of the meadows and rocky areas had good wildflowers in bloom. Specially noteworthy were the yellow monkey flowers and blue lupine.
Statistics: 9.4 miles, 1400 ft. gross elevation gain 6100 ft. peak elevation (Camp Kiser) mostly in the Mt. Baker Wilderness (USFS) 141 miles from my north Seattle home.
Robert Michelson