When we reached our third (and largest) trail washout of day 1, and stared down at a tiny cairn in the bottom of a freshly-carved gorge, and noticed two sets of ropes leading into and out of the mini-chasm, I knew this trip had achieved its purpose: high adventure and solitude in the Mt. Adams Wilderness, along with a chance to see firsthand the ravages of the winter storms of 2006.
The Future Lahar Survivor and the Jive Vacationer planned a four-day backpack around most of the base of Mt. Adams for July 16-19, 2007. The original plan was to start at Cold Springs and finish at Muddy Meadows, with a day-trip to Avalanche Valley tossed in for good measure. The biggest drawback to doing this trip right now is the washout of Forest Road-23, which turned what would normally be a 24-mile car shuttle into an all-day driving nightmare on FR-25, 90, and 88 to get between Randle and Trout Lake. Luckily, the Future Lahar Survivor Spouse Shuttle Service was operating last weekend.
We spent Sunday night in Randle, then did the north trailhead car drop Monday morning and drove around to Cold Springs, and the trailhead for South Climb #183. Hitting the trail at 3:15 PM, we were surprised to see many other hikers starting up at the same time, with the majority lugging skis for an attempt at the summit. Ours was a different path, however, and after 1.3 miles of climbing on #183, we made a sharp turn west on Around-the-Mountain Trail #9.
Over the next five miles, we passed three separate washouts, each successively more difficult than the last. The first required a short scramble, the second required a bit of route-finding and a longer scramble, and the third required the use of cairn-following and ropes to descend into and ascend out of the gorge carved by the washout. Thanks to (I assume) the forest service for setting the sturdy ropes in place.
Camp for night 1 was in Horseshoe Meadow, a gorgeous spot carpeted with wildflowers (lupine, phlox, and pink paintbrush were dominant throughout the trip, and probably just shy of peak).
Day 2 saw more flat and gorgeous trail (now on the PCT #2000), with vistas onto St. Helens, Rainier, and, of course, Adams. We also encountered more washouts, but nothing difficult to cross. After not seeing any great camps at Lewis River, we decided to push on to Killen Creek for night 2. This last stretch included the only dicey section of the trip. First, the trail gets lost in one huge washout/lava field, and we were happy to have the GPS to help locate the trail on the other side. Soon after finding the trail, we found the source of the washout, and the only difficult ford of the trip: Adams Creek. The creek was flowing high, so we switched from boots to crocs and stepped gingerly through the icy milk.
Killen Creek was empty, and we happily set up camp in the nicest backcountry campsite I have ever seen. The campsite sits at the base of a waterfall, just next to Killen Creek, with a vista over the Killen Meadows and up onto the hulking mass of Mt. Adams. Sadly, the mosquitoes also seemed to love the view (and our blood) and forced us into the tents early.
Night 2 saw a steady drizzle that didn't let up the next morning, so rather than continuing to Foggy Flat and day-hiking Avalanche Valley, we decided to cut the trip short and head for the car. The combination of ceaseless rain, a mountain shrouded in clouds, and tired legs was enough to make the car seem more appealing.
We continued on the muddy PCT as it began to descend, eventually reaching an intersection with Muddy Meadows Trail #13, where we turned left and continued the slog out to the car. All the rain kept what seemed like an otherwise dusty trail at bay, and we reached the car by 11:30 AM. By 1:30 PM, we were downing corn dogs and curly fries at the Huff-and-Puff outside of Randle.
Despite a difficult shuttle, generally cloudy weather, and the worst mosquitoes I have encountered in the backcountry, this was a remarkable trip. In late summer, with good weather and no bugs, this trip would be off the charts. The going is incredibly flat for a mountainous region, the trail is mostly easy to follow and frequently beautiful, and the campsites are superb. And right now, the trail is offering a glimpse into the power of rain. Seeing tiny creeks in the bottom of gorges that they carved as much bigger deluges over the winter was truly impressive.
For more pictures, check out http://picasaweb.google.com/zitarell/MtAdamsJuly16182007