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On September 30, 6 of us closed out the CHS-1 (Conditioning for Hiking Series) season with the Mountaineers by visiting Otter Falls/Lipsy Lake, Big Creek Falls, and Snoqualmie Falls/Snoqualmie Lake. The original plan had been to visit Kendall Katwalk and Ridge Lake, but given smoky conditions and the wind/plume direction, despite the previous day's rains, I changed destination the evening before.
And it was a very good call.
We had no smoke until noon when I caught a whiff while wading in the lake eating my lunch. The rest of the afternoon we had very slight haze, the smell of smoke was intermittent, but not too bad (especially since we were going downhill after that).
But I'm getting ahead of myself.
Be aware of the "dips" for drainage around mile 7-ish past Mailbox, and be prepared for the poor, deeply rutted gravel road for roughly 1-2 miles around Garfield Ledges. Both get me every time if I'm not paying attention.
The portapotty is open and stocked, and a NW Forest Pass is required rather than a Discovery Pass (which is useful at other spots along the Middle Fork of the Snoqualmie.)
We started hiking at 7 a.m. under partly cloudy skies, pretty much mid 50's all day with some sunbreaks mid-day which made for some spectacular photos of fall foliage and streaming rays in the forest.
I shared a detailed trip report from another trip on 9/9: https://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/trip_report-2025-09-10.101241785125 so I'll just make note of what was different.
Right now fiery red splotches high up near the cliff bases are spectacular; no berries to speak of. We had 15 bird species including Pacific wren, juncos, robins, several woodpeckers, steller's jays, chickadees, kinglets, and the best of all was a northern pygmy-owl calling in the distance. I kept hoping we'd see deer or other large mammals, but other than hearing a pika and seeing what looked like a squirrel with an injured paw (poor guy froze on the trail like a deer in headlights - we wanted to help but left him to fend for himself) we didn't have any other animal encounters.
What fun: it's MUSHROOM season. SO. MANY. DIFFERENT. KINDS. Go and enjoy the multitude of fungus among us.
The stream crossings leading to Otter and Big Creek are completely dry for now, but I know how much things can change once rains return in fall. Otter Falls is running again and there's some foamy froth in Lipsy Lake.
With Monday's (recent) rain, the trail is a touch muddy in places, and maidenhair ferns are abundant on the steeper climb to Snoqualmie Lake. At the highest stream crossing the lower log remains a viable option - three of us took the high wet rocks, the other three of us used the tree as a handhold to cross the low log. Whatever works for each hiker. Most of my group used trekking poles for the decent; I brought one but I never pulled it out.
The sinkhole I saw on June 3 in the upper boulder field has been completely filled; impaling sticks by the red cedar ruins have been removed; and we shored up a few toppled cairns on the last boulder field. This time I took the very first left that looked more like a stream bed (it is) and had no problem picking our way up and across to the high trail.
The toilet at Snoqualmie Lake (just past the campsite near the lake) is in good condition. We had sunbreaks and a little haze at the lake where we spent 45 minutes enjoying our success before heading back down. The lake level continues to be low, and we saw zero trash, zero other hikers except two backpackers heading out around mile 4. I LOVE shoulder season hiking.
Around 3 it started to cloud over, trapping some smoke (forecast was for rain starting at 5) but really we had ideal hiking conditions clear up until 5:15, just after our graduation ceremony, when it started to spit rain. It's like the universe was just waiting for us to finish up what's been an absolutely amazing season for hiking for me this year. So grateful for the mountains and trails of the Pacific Northwest and this opportunity to share the beauty with those who also want to enjoy.
#HiketheState
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The gravel road in front of Garfield Ledges is quite deeply rutted, just before the bridge and beyond and to the parking lot for Otter/Big Creek, where we were first visitors to the trailhead for the day. Take your time so you don't wreck your car. Restroom is open and stocked. NW Forest Pass (NOT Discovery Pass) is needed here.
7 of us from the Mountaineers CHS-1 (Conditioning for Hiking Series 1.5-2 mph) cohort did a graduation hike Tuesday to Otter Falls/Lipsy Lake, Big Creek Falls, and Snoqualmie Lake from the Middle Fork side. We left the parking lot at 7 a.m. under cloudy cool temperatures with a threat of rain, but by 5 when we returned to the cars, the sun was out making for some neat late-afternoon photos.
AllTrails had us at 17 miles/2400' gain with average moving pace 2.1 mph (7:45 moving time). We enjoyed 20 minutes at Lipsy/Otter Falls to refuel for the next four miles, 45 minutes at Snoqualmie Lake as our halfway point, and took a number of photo opps including at the "unnamed falls" both ways up the steeper gain. We only saw one other person all day.
The first (and last) 6 miles of the trail is in fabulous shape, no blow downs, with mushrooms starting to poke out. The stream crossings are almost completely dry, but there is still running water at the first falls, Big Creek Falls, and Snoqualmie Falls. Otter Falls is dry. And Snoqualmie Lake, which was overflowing on June 3 when I last did this hike, is probably a good 2 feet lower than it was, with no obvious overflow through the rocks as you come into the basin near the first camp site.
Once you pass the Nordrum/Snoqualmie Lake sign, the route really climbs in two miles, with sometimes slick footing where runoff has added mud to rocks and roots. I counted at least 6 blow-downs that haven't been cleared; they are accessible, just look for the obvious tracks either uphill or down to get around them.
After you've completed most of the gain, there is a high stream crossing that caused us to pause. Some logs (if they're dry) are the obvious route (the path I chose) with poles on either side for stability, but coming down the same route, the log moved so everyone chose to carefully cross the wet rock. In either case, poles can be useful.
At the rocky slope just before you reach the basin, it becomes trickier to navigate. Keep eyes left and there's a little stream bed you can go up, or slightly beyond on drier rocks, some cairns mark the way. We chose to diagonal upward to regain the route rather than going straight across and then up. The sinkhole we found in June has been plugged with rocks so no ankle issues there, but on one slick cedar blow-down there is a jagged branch sticking out that could stab you in the shins if you're not paying attention. We slowed way down on this section, particularly coming down.
I expected to see at least one backpacker but we had the entire region to ourselves. There is a nice pit toilet just past the lakeside camp area, marked with pink ribbons. In muddy spots we saw tracks we interpreted as being left by dogs.
Many of the berries are overly ripe to the point of being spit-worthy, but we found some in the basin still worth picking. We had 12 bird species including several Pacific wrens, Swainson's thrushes, and woodpeckers, but with fall migration in full swing it's pretty quiet. No mammals beyond squirrels and I heard one pica call.
We had one swimmer and one wader at the northernmost lakeside camping spot which has a little area of sand but is mostly pretty muddy and easy to sink into. I want to go back and do the Dorothy/Bear/Deer lakes visit in the future.
The highlights of the day included 1) seeing the fog dancing across the lake surface as the sun tried to figure out when to make an appearance, and 2) great photo opportunities with my group of 7. Best of all was the smiles on their faces when I handed out graduation medallions for a summer well spent. 11 hikes including a graduation 17+ miler? Priceless.
#HiketheState
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This was a very nice weekend backpacking trip. The trail to the lake was shady pretty much the whole way. We found a large, level campsite twenty feet from the water near the NW corner of the lake. The lake itself was cool but not icy. Where we went in, the shallows were a bit muddy, but the water got deep quickly.
I hiked to the ridge overlooking Lake Dorothy on the second day, then returned to camp. There were a few blowdowns across the trail, but they weren't hard to get around.
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I arrived to the trail head parking lot at 8:45 am. The lot only had a handful of vehicles. Still enough room for a dozen more. The bathroom is open.
An 18 mile hike as a 62 year old can be tiring. This hike took me 5 hours and 45 minutes R/T. The first 6 miles are a piece of cake. Pretty much a slight up grade walk. The final 3 miles is where all the vertical elevation hides.
The lakes is stunning. The outlet creek is equally as stunning. The hike up gives you some beautiful views of a waterfall.
This is a great training hike if that's what you're looking for. The trail has a handful of downed trees. There's also short stretches overgrowth where you can't see the trail.
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Got started around 10am under low clouds and light drizzle—a welcome change after the climate changey spring we've had in the PNW. The run up the valley to Snoqualmie Lake was peaceful and cool.
Above Snoqualmie Lake, the trail opens up and gives some really nice views back down at the lake. From there, it’s about 1.5 miles and ~300 feet of gain to reach Deer and Bear Lakes. Past Bear Lake, the descent to Dorothy gets steeper with switchbacks and is pretty overgrown. Unfortunately there were no great views looking down at Dorothy as this part was densely forested.
I only made it to the southern tip of Lake Dorothy. I’d hoped to loop around for better views, but the trail was too choked in. Bug pressure was intense around all the lakes—anytime I stopped for a gel, I was instantly swarmed.
On the return, I passed several campers at Snoqualmie Lake. One group had left a still-smoldering fire—please don’t do this. Fires are prohibited, and so are off-leash dogs (saw at least a dozen). Letting dogs run off trail isn’t just against the rules—it harms wildlife. Please be respectful.
All in all, a great run with cool temps and some beautiful stretches—but I wouldn’t recommend continuing down to Dorothy.