It's 4:30 AM in Seattle. A hot day is predicted, so I'm up earlier than usual. Blue Towel and I load our gear into the Honda, and we are off while it's still dark. We find our way to Buckley, then south through Wilkeson, past Carbonado, across the one-lane bridge over Carbon River and onto the Mowich Lake road. To the lake it's seventeen more miles, all unpaved and dusty.
At the lake, a dozen cars are in the lot, apparently folks tent-camped in the designated area. The lake is pretty, but the camping area itself looks rather stony and dusty, and not particularly appealing. At 7:30 AM campers are just getting up, and we are out on the trail ahead of most of them. A few bugs are in the air, but they aren't biting yet.
Perversely, the trail begins with some downhill before leveling out. At Eagle Cliff, we take the short (1 min) side trip down to the viewpoint, and enjoy a great view of the mountain in early morning light.
Further along, we bypass the side trail to Spray Falls for now, choosing instead to climb the switchbacks up to Spray Park while it's still cool (relatively.) We will revisit the falls on our way down, when there likely will be more melt water flowing anyway.
We reach the lower end of the park and the bugs become unfriendly, so corrective measures are needed. There are flowers here, even an occasional early gentian, but no avalanche lilies. We expected that. As we gain elevation, the mix of flowers changes. Soon, we are surrounded by a profuse growth of lupine, interspersed with magenta paintbrush, bistort, and others. The incredible, sweet aroma fills the air.
Soon, we begin to see a few remaining avalanche lilies, in sheltered locations, and there are other flowers, a mix of different colors. While I pause to take photos, Blue Towel goes on ahead. She notes two marmots close to the trail, but they are spooked by another hiker before I arrive, so I miss them.
We continue on until we are well above Spray Park. The main route goes on to Carbon River and Mystic Lake, but here it disappears temporarily under a short snow bank. This is as far as we intended to go today, but we note the unofficial, long-established, trail heading upslope directly toward the mountain. We recall taking it several years ago and we take now, up into alpine tundra, where we find dwarf lupine and a few very hardy orange paintbrush.
Somewhere below Flett Glacier (now snowfield?) we find a stopping spot to enjoy the views up to the mountain and down to Spray Park, where we note a few other hikers arriving now.
Temperatures are rising and it's time to head back down, very slowly, to savor the flowers as we go. Another marmot appears for us, and we note some bear scat (not fresh,) but there's no sign of the bear.
On the way, we take the side trail to the falls (it's only five minutes, and well worth it.) A lot of water is coming down, and the setting is very picturesque.
We continue back toward the parking lot. It's quite warm now, and there is that uphill section to look forward to...
A very satisfying day, with a good mix of wildflowers, and great views of the mountain.