Hit the trail at 9:15 on a Thursday morning. Found a parking spot in the parking lot and we saw the remitments of the window smashing break-ins from Tuesday. Glass all over the parking lot but we took our chances. My friend hung paper towels and left a note on the Kia that was still in the parking lot – so sorry that happened to you if you are reading this!

Bugs were not too bad but were annoying at Tank Lakes. We had mosquito nets and were fine for the most part. Way less bugs at Jade Lake. 

The trailhead states that it is 7 miles to Jade Lake but it is really 9 miles. The first 6 miles are fairly flat / rolling hills. Gained about 500 feet in elevation. Once you cross the river around mile 6 the climb really starts. Go to your right instead of going straight up the first boulder field. There is a more direct route there with more cairns. You will have to climb over a freshly cut tree. It is pretty much a straight climb up to Jade from there that levels off a bit as you get closer to Jade. We got to Jade at around 15:15 and took a half hour break or so then started the final push to Tank Lakes. The next mile or so was easy through the meadow / by the cabin then you come across the next boulder field.

The cairns were accurately placed, and we followed them up and had no problems with directions on the way up. Once you cross the first boulder field with the much bigger boulders you come into a tiny little meadow area where you can look up and either go more to the left / straight and the route is less steep and you climb over three or four “hills” until you reach Tank Lakes. Or you can also go to your right and climb steeply up and find yourself above the boulder “hills” and you will find social trails to take you to Tank Lakes. Beautiful views of Baker if you choose the route to the right. We went up going more to the left and came down using the steeper route to the right. We struggled getting down since we didn’t go down the way we went up. I would stick with the same way each time to save you time / energy.

We got to Tank Lakes at 18:15 so all in all it took us 9 hours to get up. I had problems with my pack and was going quite slow. We definitely took our time getting up with lots of breaks, but I would leave more time than you think you need for the last 2.5 miles that is literally walking on precarious rocks / boulders. Takes a lot of mental and physical energy but so worth it! There were at least five other groups there already on Thursday when we arrived, but we found a nice campsite after some searching. There is lots of room around the lakes although lower Tank lake definitely looks more like a pond. I found the lakes a bit underwhelming. The views of Chimney Rock, Overcoat Peak, and Chief Mountain were definitely more breathtaking.

We went swimming Friday morning and saw some people diving in. The lake was quite cold but not unbearable and felt so good on our sore muscles. We headed out to camp at Emerald or Jade lake around 1 PM after enjoying our morning. We ran into quite a few groups (maybe 8 or 10?) coming down. It took us 3 hours and 30 minutes to make it 3.5 miles down to Jade given the boulder situation and not going back the same way we came. The spot at Emerald was taken so we went down to Jade and luckily got the very nice spot on the south side of the lake. There were fresh bear and cougar prints around Jade lake. Two other groups ended up coming in after 8 PM and camped “illegally” right on the water which was upsetting to see but I get that it was late / they needed somewhere to camp for the night safely. Got woken up at 1:45 AM too by two guys yelling on the trail coming in or going out… Definitely a busy trail…

Took us 6 hours to hike out Saturday morning with a lunch break along the river. We ran into ~15 different parties or so and most people had overnight packs on.

The trip clocked in at 24.7 miles and 5,406 feet of elevation gained in total.

We did an overnight at Tank Lakes. Left the Necklace Valley trailhead Thursday and returned Friday. Plenty of parking at the trailhead, we hit the trail at 8:30am.  

The first 5 miles were a good warm-up for what came later. Trail was in good condition, overgrown in spots. After crossing the log bridge the climbing started. From here to the "gem" lakes it's steep, rooty & rocky, but we enjoyed cool temps and few bugs. Except for the hornet that stung me on the shoulder. I heard it, felt it, and ran. Between Emerald and Opal Lakes we threw our schedule out the window. The blueberries were so sweet and tasty, not tart at all. We enjoyed picking as many as we could eat.

At the end of the Necklace Valley trail, we headed to the Tank Lakes. Went up through the boulder fields and returned on a route to the meadow. More than one way to the upper talus & scree. Above tree line we stayed generally higher on the ridge, but saw hikers on less steep routes following the creek. When we crested the saddle and saw the south lake, plateau and mountains, we were elated. It was a long haul with > 5k feet of elevation gain.

Lot's of good campsites available. We made camp on a granite slab, Summit Chief and Chimney Rock overhead. Spent the evening exploring the plateau. It's a large area of pristine alpine beauty. Away from the lake we traveled cross country among gorgeous benches of heather and wildflowers. We tried to minimize our impact as there are no trails. Had dinner and a beautiful starry night.

In the morning had coffee then went to North Tank Lake and up toward Otter Point (did not climb it). North Tank looked like glass. Broke camp and headed back. On the way down we studied the waterfall route to Hinman and the La Bohn Gap. It looked fearsome.

At the trailhead a car we saw earlier with a broken window was still there. We thought maybe the driver did the La Bohn traverse? It may have been there for several days. Hopefully nothing serious.

I arrived at the East Fork Foss River Trailhead shortly after 7:00 a.m. planning to backpack to Tank Lakes. I found that 8 out of the 9 cars in the lot had been broken into and looted. I drove back down to find cell phone coverage and called 911 to inform the sheriff's office. I was told nothing could or would be done unless someone who was an actual victim called in. I also notified my wife that I would be doing just a day hike instead of an overnight trip. This would require taking my full pack because I didn't want to leave any gear in the car. There was also plenty of shattered glass from previous break-ins and, oddly, a freshly cut alder tree that had been made to fall over the entrance to the lot, then dragged clear. I surmised that this was done by the thieves to block anyone from entering while they went from car to car. I left my car unlocked and the glove box open. A few cars parked along the road had not apparently been robbed.

The trail has a split personality: the five miles or so to the river crossing is a lovely forest hike. After that, it's a steep rugged track--no gratuitous switchbacks here! I reluctantly informed those coming down of the probable fate of their automobiles. Perhaps it would have been better to let them enjoy the hike out rather than having to ruminate on what had been lost and the feeling of helplessness and violation, but then I guess I would have wanted to be told. Oddly, on my way down, no one I passed mentioned the carnage in the lot. 

I took a quick (less than ten seconds, I estimate) dip in Jade Lake. The water is colder than expected given how shallow it is. I continued up another mile and a half or so. I regretted deciding to make this a day hike, but as I had informed my wife that I would be coming back that night, I thought I ought to keep my word in the interest of marital harmony. Also, by this time my Alltrails map had stopped functioning. The trail is easy enough to follow, though there is a web of side trails in the meadows above Emerald Lake. I had a green trails map and altimeter, but I had wanted the Alltrails map to help clarify the route up to Tank Lakes. 

I passed about fifteen others coming up. I wondered if they would just be the next night's crop of victims. Everyone was courteous about wearing a mask or making room. The only other annoyance besides the maddening trailhead lawlessness was the military jet aircraft. One pass was was so low, loud, and sudden--really a terrifying crack and roar--that I thought a large rockslide had broken loose above me. Both my dog and I crouched to await our fate. The flyovers, some low altitude, continued off and on all day. Such an amazing display of shock and awe overhead, yet impotent against the depredations of the trailhead robbers below. I know, it is "the sound of freedom," but I was already listening to the sound of freedom--the birds, the babbling brooks, the rustle of wind in leaves surrendering to autumn's advance. Surely a wilderness area should be off limits to loud, low-flying military aircraft! 

 According to the Whidbey Island Naval Airstation, 
"There are aircraft carrier-based flight training operations scheduled to occur at Ault Field and the Outlying Landing Field (OLF) in Oak Harbor and Coupeville, Wash., respectively the week of August 23 - 30, 2020.  People living in local communities should remain aware that the aforementioned operations are not the only operations out of NAS Whidbey Island, particularly at Ault Field, which is a 24-hour-a-day operational facility. There are many other training evolutions that people may hear. However, the aircraft carrier flight training operations are types of operations that involve lower altitude flight training in close vicinity to the airfield. Due to late sunsets this time of year, all night operations are pushed to later than normal times."

There's not much helpful information here, should one want to schedule a hike where one may find the solitude and serenity one expects in the wilderness. Besides a final deafening pass of the jets, it was a peaceful, though long walk back out.

There seems to be no good solution to the break-ins, except leaving your car unlocked and nothing of any value in them. It might be nice if the local law enforcement authorities could coordinate an operation with a decoy vehicle and nab some of these folks in the act, though I suppose this will never happen as undoubtedly there are bigger fish to fry on their list of priorities. 

Good luck! 

BREAK-INS AT TRAILHEAD. We had a great trip up in necklace valley and beyond for 2 nights, until we returned to the parking lot to find that our car, as well as 7 others, had their passenger windows smashed and glove boxes rummaged through. Cars parked on the road outside the lot seemed to be fine - but this could have been a coincidence. Consider leaving your glove box open and empty - or just avoiding this trailhead altogether. It was fun, but not worth the cost of replacing a window. 

Quick report for an overnight at Tank Lakes on 8.15-16

Road to trailhead was fine for all vehicles with a few potholes to avoid. The lot was already full when I got there at 6.20 a.m. on Saturday but I got a spot on the side of the road easily. There was a sign at the trailhead saying no fee required.

The first 4 miles of this hike were super mellow through the woods, changing to abrupt uphill after the river. Maybe a little brushy in spots, but not too bad. Loads of berries! We huffed up to Jade Lake in the heat, where my friend took a swim and we had lunch before carrying on.

Saw two (maybe three) bears by Emerald Lake in the bushes on the other side of the lake from where we were.

The way up to Tank past Emerald and Opal through the moraine was actually more difficult than I had expected, with no super-discernible path, lots of boulders to hop (always fun with an overnight pack on a sweltering day!) and just exposed to the sun. The trail on my map followed the ridge up, which would have probably been easier than what we did which was staying lower on the side of it for a ways before cutting up.

Tank Lake was beautiful and there were quite a few groups of people camping there although there is quite a bit of room to spread out. Mosquitoes were HORRIBLE. Maybe the worst I've had this season. I hid in my tent for a while and was also glad I brought a headnet and light rain gear to keep them off. I still got eaten though.

The next morning we made our way partially to Otter Point but ended up off route and decided to just turn back after scrambling to a spot on the ridge with a good view of the Upper Tank Lake, wandering by Foehn Lake in the process. The whole area was lovely, full of tumbled granite, lakes and tarns (mosquito breeding lands!) and just fun to wander around in.

We got off trail again in the moraine although we did follow the ridge down this time, but ended up rock hopping down the river instead and met up with the La Bohn Lakes trail which we took back to the trail we came up on.