After doing a WTA work party on the West Fork Foss River trail, I've wanted to check out the Foss Lakes area on a backpacking trip. After reading some trip reports, I decided exploring the "High Route" and dropping back down the East Fork through Necklace Valley would be a worthy challenge and provide an opportunity to look upon a dozen or so alpine lakes.
First, this is an absolutely spectacular trip. The views are amazing, the lakes are photogenic, and the terrain is rugged. You'll see 10+ named lakes, plus dozens of tarns, lots of peaks, and even some distant views.
Second, this is HARD. The trail up to Big Heart Lake is in great shape, but challenging. Beyond Big Heart, the "trail" is more of a way trail. From Chetwoot Lake to Necklace Valley, there is no trail at all. Following cairns (if you're lucky and on the right route) or orienteering are the only ways to find your way. You're likely to be required to scramble up at least a few tricky spots, especially if you miss a cairn. Once you're in Necklace Valley, the descent is on a poorly draining, slippery, often muddy trail to the valley floor of the East Fork. 40' contour TOPOs, compass, altimeter, and the knowledge to use them are necessary. A GPS unit would be handy, but I wouldn't want to rely on it unless the weather made by-hand location fixing impossible.
On to the report...
We started from West Fork Foss River TH on trail 1064. The 1.5 miles up to Trout Lake is in great shape and is a pretty easy jaunt on very nicely rebuilt trail. If you've read the trail description, this is where the "up" begins. Over the next 2 miles, we climbed up a steep switchbacked section to the junction with the short Malachite Lake trail. Even though it's steep, the trail is in good enough shape that it is really quite doable, even for an out-of-shape dude like me.
From the junction, it's an easy quarter mile to Copper Lake, where we refilled our water. The trail from Copper to Little Heart Lake is fairly easy and in good shape. Berries are EVERYWHERE. The trail condition remains good to Big Heart Lake, where we camped the first night amid plentiful berries and plentiful other backpackers. The bees are annoying at Copper and Big Heart, but they seem more curious than anything - I continually waved them away and they never behaved aggressively.
After a warm night at Big Heart, we continued on the now unofficial trail toward Chetwoot Lake. The trail wraps around to the backside of the ridge between Big Heart and Angeline Lakes, and you can peer over a spectacular knife edge down to Angeline before heading up. At this point, cairns (occasionally) mark a route that involves less trail and more scrambling, but remains along the same spine between the lakes. After ascending some more, you finally attain the ridge between the Chetwoot and Angeline lake basins. Descending to Little Chetwoot is a bit steep, but doable. We might have missed the route to the larger lake - it's easy to do.
Getting from Big Heart to Chetwoot took way longer than we expected it to.
We refilled our water at the outlet of Little Chetwoot, and continued across the outlet, bushwhacking up to the talus slopes to the east of Chetwoot. From there, all semblance of trail was behind us. Following the advice of numerous past trip reports and forum posts, we ascended the talus to about 5400' and then traversed all the way around northwest arm of Iron Cap Mountain (the ridge that extends almost due north from Point 6077). This stretch was pretty straightforward. From there, we following through a gap at about 5540 or so toward Iron Cap Lake, approximately 5430'. 3 younger hikers ignored the cairns pointing toward the gap and traversed north around the bump, but then doubled back. We spent the night just above the outlet stream of the silty lake with 2 of the 5 people we'd encountered doing the same loop. The 3 younger guys, even after doubling back were way ahead of us.
In the morning, we got an early start and followed the cairns ascending the north flank of Iron Cap Mountain. We reached a gully where the route was unclear - do we traverse left (looked tricky), or ascend right, so my hiking companion traversed some ledges without his pack to see what we found on the other side. There was a welcome cairn just around the corner from the ledges, so we knew we were in the right place. Ascending right would have taken us toward the summit and possibly been less steep overall, but the slot we hit at about 5600' was quite doable.
Once we rounded the corner beyond that slot, we descended THROUGH some scrub trees and back on to talus and our next waypoint, Iron Cap Pass (about 5300') was within view. We dropped to about 5360 to a false pass before continuing our traverse to an area slightly above the pass to the right (WSW). We descended to the pass and enjoyed the views and a brief break.
From Iron Cap Pass, the route finding was a bit of a challenge. Apparently there are several ways up, and we probably took one of the more challenging routes. We followed on-and-off boot paths and cairns to a thumb with a choice once again to go left or right. We each scouted one side, but elected to go left. A 40' ledged climb (handholds required!) ensued and we gained the ~5800' ridge containing Tank Lakes, Foehn Lake, and Tahl Lake. Once on top, we found the real "trail" wrapping around from the right. Oops.
We only found the south Tank lake, and never found Foehn or Tahl.
It was already after 2pm, so we continued with a grueling and hot but uneventful descent into Necklace Valley. We stopped just long enough for photos at Emerald Lake around 4pm, and a snack at Jade Lake before continuing down the very steep trail down from Necklace. We crossed the bridge over the East Fork Foss at 7PM and snacked again, and by 8PM had donned our headlamps. We finally reached the East Fork TH at 9:15 PM.