UNION CREEK 6-26-04 Solitude in the wilderness on the east side of Chinook Pass. The Union Creek trail offers forest, river, spectacular waterfalls, a scattering of flowers and a lack of people. We met at snowy Chinook Pass, it was cold and two feet of snow covered about 70% of the ground. After driving 9 miles east down hiway 410 to our trailhead the sun was out and the temperature was approaching 70. We started up at 10AM and took our first detour just after the bridge, left onto the lower waterfall viewing spur trail. (There are two falls complexes, the lower falls at about 1/2 mile, #1 are on Main Union Creek, the upper falls at about 2 miles, #2 are on North Fork Union Creek just before it joins main.) A little scramble here and use of the hands was necessary for the best view. #1 is a big falls in three steps. The water volume will convince you that this is a small river not a creek. Retracing our steps we then started up the steep switch backs that climb above the falls. From the very top there is an airy view point looking down at #1 and the river valley below. We were getting warm, the sun poked thru the gaps in the forest and it was an open east side forest with a thinner canopy than we have on the west side of the Cascades. For the next mile and 1/2 we ascended on a very gentle grade with a light sprinkling of forest flowers and occasional views of the river below and the peaks to the west. Then we rounded a bend and saw the lower portion of #2 thundering into a gorge below us. The trail approaches the top part of the visible falls and crosses the stream on a 1973 log bridge. At this point we entered a very beautiful shady glade beween the falls. Such a wonderful place to cool off ! Fifty yards to our right the upper part of # 2 thundered at a 90 degree angle to the lower part. Our glade was a mini campsite just right for the four of us to enjoy the sun sparkled falls while we sat streamside by the mosses and ferns enjoying a restful snack. Onward and upward the next mile and 1/2 gained 600 feet at a moderate grade, but it also went down and up, down and up. Flowers improved in quality as we climbed. We passed thru an old fire from about 80 years ago that the large trees survived. Many very large old Douglas fir here too. The last 1/2 mile descended 200 feet to our real lunch destination at a wonderful riverside campground. It's hard to get into because of many downed trees. All downed trees on the trail have been cut however. The river forms a U shape around the campsite (3 fire rings, very old). It was a sylvan setting, just us, the river gurgling, and frogs hopping next door amidst the Marsh Marigolds. Almost no insects. We started back at 2:30 and had another long stop at the #2 glade, so beautiful. Then down to the top of #1 and a detour on the upper spur trail that drops like a rock down into the spray zone about 2/3 the way down the falls. These were the best views of all. The viewing area also had one of the best flower displays of the day. Back up, and then we headed for the trailhead. Flower score for the day: 22 varieties. Notable were the 10's of thousands of Vanilla Leaf. Also good were Queens Cup, False Solomons Seal, and Wild Rose. Columbine and Orange Paintbrush were rare but good. The Marsh Marigolds with the frogs were excellent. The only other animals for the day were a couple of chipmunks and a few birds. Oh, and an Elk high on Chinook Pass. We finished off our trip with ice cream at Wapito Woolies in Greenwater. Union creek drains two mountain valleys on the east side of the Pacific Crest trail, just opposite Norse Peak and the Crystal Mountain ski area. The trail is well built and maintained. Statistics for the day: 9 miles, 1600 vertical ft. Zero other people on the trail, TOTAL SOLITUDE. Robert Michelson

Decided to check out the waterfalls on the Union Creek trail. Arrived at the trailhead about 0800. The outhouse was out of toilet paper so I guess it pays to always bring your own in case you need it. The first set of falls is close to the trailhead just after you cross a wood bridge across the creek. The trail climbs up one side of the falls and allows good views of the falls. Some side trails allow better access to the falls than the main trail. The trail then climbs steeply to the top of the falls and continues through the forest. Some of this area appears to have been hit by a fire sometime in the near past. Some charred tree trunks attest to this. The trail then continues up to the second set of falls. A neat little bridge crosses the creek right at the brink of one set of falls. A short branch trail right after the bridge leads to another neat fall. The main trail then leads up and follows the creek up the valley. At about four miles, the trail drops down near the creek. I scrambled over some trees and found a campsite next to the creek and had lunch. Unfortunately the mosquitos didn't allow me to enjoy the serenity too much so I cut lunch short and headed back. Didn't see too many people on this trail. If you are near Chinook Pass and want to see a couple of nice waterfalls you might want to try this trail.

The drive from my earlier hike in the day down by Silver Falls in eastern MRNP to Union Creek was a great visual lesson in the mountains rainshadow effect, moderating temperatures, and close inspection of the remaining snowpack. There is ample snow still under the trees in all cool valleys and gorges down to 3000' in the Deer Creek area on upward to Cayuse Pass. From Cayuse Pass southern slopes are melting out fast but any low valley or north slope will be snowed in for at good month yet. The north side of Naches Peak at Chinook Pass is buried deep still under more than six feet of snow and the bathrooms at the Chinook Pass PCT parking lot are now only starting to be exposed, with the back side of the structure completely buried still. I headed 9.3 miles east of Chinook Pass to the Union Creek Trail. Here snow was not in sight except for the highest northern slopes of American Ridge (note: American Ridge looks to be a great hike now while the crest is buried!). After my early start of hiking, I was still at the trailhead by 9:30am even after having already hiked four miles in MRNP by Silver Falls. Even still, I was amazed to find not a sole at the trailhead! I quickly hiked the 1/4 mile to the crossing of Union Creek and the waterfalls as the cloud cover (i.e. good waterfall photography light) was quickly breaking apart on this dry side of the crest. The bridge over Union Creek was a good laugh with water waves splashing up onto the bridge decking! The creek is running so high and fast that it is running right up against the bridge...luckily it is still in place. I personally liked the first spur left trail down to a viewpoint of the falls. I enjoyed the effect of having both the lower falls and the biggest falls in one view, with the upper falls towering over the lower one. I got a good soaking at the second spur trail sighting of the large upper falls as the water coming over it now is amazing! At this moment the sun came out and it simply cleared off and was sunny the rest of the day. Cool breezes, bright sun, and a lovely forest to hike through. Perfect!! I continued on the two miles to the North Fork Union Creek area, passing calypso orchids, trillium, yellow violets, and oceans of vanilla-leaf. Lupines and larkspur put in a dash of purple/blue color while Indian paintbrush brighten up the reds. The trail is steep for 1/3 mile past the falls and then becomes a lovely forest hike with gentle ups and downs as you hike along around 4000' elevation. The crossing of North Fork Union Creek is spectacular as you cross on a log with some decking on it, a wire to hold if you want (wire is WAY too low for someone my height to take advantage of), all the while seeing the creek pass under you just prior to it falling off into a deep gorge to your left! Be certain to cross the creek and take the small spur trail to the right about 100 yards to view the upper waterfall -- it was equally spectacular and soaking with the volume of flow in North Fork Union Creek! I ate some here, then hiked on up the trail another 1.5 miles or so. No snow in sight, and the ridges around me appeared to be bare as well. Even the south facing slopes up by the PCT were almost bare. With Union Creek trail sticking to the north side of the creek well up into the valley, I'd bet this is snowfree most of the way to the PCT. I turned back and enjoyed the 3.5 miles back to the trailhead to complete a good leg stretching day on the trail(s). Blowdown is scattered across the trail, maybe 15-20 total, but none that was a real problem. Hiking back I enjoyed a large flock of Evening Grosbeaks, a pair of grouse, and two chipmunks racing in circles up and down a tree over and over again. I'll surely hike this trail again...it was special, and I never saw anyone until I was almost back to the falls again after noon.

There is about 5 feet of snow at this time. After leaving the snowpark follow the road approx. 1/8 mile to the trailhead sign on the left which is mostly under the snow, but the top part of the sign is visible. The trail is pretty good to the first falls. After a short slight incline you drop down to the creek and cross a footbridge. After climbing the switchbacks you can take the trail down to the base of the first falls which goes off to the left and is pretty well marked by previous snowshoers. There is a gorgeous ice build up on the sides of the falls which illuminates a beautiful blue. Our goal was to get to the second falls about 2 miles ahead. There are large drifted in areas and some blown down trees which makes staying on the trail difficult. There is an area where a creek comes down and crosses the trail which leaves approx. a 2 foot opening to step across, or if you go up the hill just a bit there is a crossing. Needless to say we were unable to get to the second falls as it was pretty slow going and no previous trekkers had been there to ease our pain of trailbreaking. After about 2 hours going in, we turned back. If you have never been here in the winter it is truly a winter wonderland and well worth the work.

The trailhead to Union Creek Falls is located about 10 miles east of Chinook Pass on SR410. Hiking distance is about .25 mile, and I was surprised at the lack of crowds on the trail for a Memorial Day weekend. Two spurs off the main trail give one good views of the falls, the second spur taking you right up to the base of the falls. There is a lot of water in the falls at this time of year and it is truly a beautiful place.