The Whitechuck Bench trail is slated for repair/reroute this summer, and will once again be 6 miles long, terminating at the Whitechuck Road. Currently, you can walk about a mile and a half before hitting the trail-stopping washout, where it’s a nice drop to the river to bask on large rocks in the sun, when the river is low enough to do so. From Darrington, take the Mtn Loop Hwy toward Barlow Pass. Turn right at the Whitechuck Boat Launch (sign on left) and cross the bridge over the Sauk River. Continue up the road a couple of switchbacks and past the gravel pit area. See the Whitechuck Bench trail sign on the right. This trail starts in a recently logged area, but within 5 minutes, you’re in old second growth forest – My guess is that this forest was logged about 70-80 years ago, so the trees are big here. There are quite a few large cedars, and hemlock & Douglas fir are battling it out to see who among them wins the battle of succession. There are a few silver firs here, too. The forest floor is a blanket of moss, Oregon grape, and false lily of the valley – more lilies on this trail than I have seen anywhere else. Groves of alder are dotted here and there as well. The trail is close to the edge of the slope, there are some open views of the Whitechuck River, and a chanced at dollops of sunshine. There is evidence of recent bear or cat activity here – lots of scratched snags, freshly dug holes in the trail tread, snuffled up chunks of moss, and there was one very old alder snag that was recently upturned – I assumed by a critter looking for chocolate truffles. Or slugs. I walked to pretty Black Oak creek. This particular creek is interesting because it has a thick border of mid-sized alders lining each side of it, more than any other creek would typically have. I don’t know when this flood even took place, but it must’ve been big – Black Oak doesn’t seem to have reached that flood stage since. I have an old, old map that shows a trail leading up the side of the creek, but to investigate means bashing through salmon berry and devils club. I hung out there awhile, and headed back. I wanted to sit in the sun at the edge of the cliffy spot where the road switchbacks down toward the Boat Ramp. Nice place to have lunch, and views of Whitechuck, Mt Pugh, and the Whitechuck Valley are very, very nice indeed. Next I went to Beaver Lk trail directly across from the Boat Launch (turn right off Mtn Loop instead of left to the Boat Launch). This trail never disappoints when you’re looking for skunk cabbage (at the appropriate time of year, of course). The last time I was on this trail, my buddy Jim Kuresman and I met Phyllis Reed, biologist with MBSNF, who pointed out the old railroad pilings near the trails’ beginning, used as a bridge to cross over the Sauk River. This trail is lined with bleeding heart and yellow violet– for almost a full mile (and beyond, if you feel like negotiating the washouts). Acres of wetlands are home to thousands upon thousands of swamp lanterns (skunk cabbage). None of these flowers are at their height yet. I’d give it about a week for the bleeding heart. Maybe a bit longer for the height of the swamp lantern show. O yeah - and the trail is also lined with nettles. Locals hit this trail to picked nettles for whatever they use them for. I think greens – apparently if you boil ‘em, they’re tasty, but they don’t hurt you when they’re slidin’ down your gullet, or after they plunk into your gut. The trail now officially ends at about a mile, where it was washed out in 2003 (or 06 – I’m getting my disasters mixed up). The FS has tried to survey a re-route, but you see, there’s this rocky cliff in the way…. The 2 washouts are get-aroundable with just a bit of hassle (“hassle” being a relative term) - but if you have little kids, the current end of the trail is good enough – with the washouts, there are now impressive views on this trail where there were no views before.

We read about this trail on Craig Romano's Hike of the Week Website.A new bridge over the White Chuck River on FR22 has made this hike now accessible. 9 miles from Darrington turn left off the Mountain Loop HWY onto FR 22. The TH is .8 miles from the HWY. The forest service and volunteers have cleared 2 miles of this trail. We had time to hike only a little over 1 mile before having to turn around because of approaching darkness. Elevation gain is 160 feet if you go the entire 2 miles as you end at river level. Our walk was mainly flat as we were just beginning to start down when we had to turn around. There were blossoming salmonberry flowers at our turnaround point. There were many mushrooms along the trail--esp turkey tail which literally covered many logs. There were several small trees across the trail, but all were easily stepped over. We plan to return another day to complete the trail. Thank you to all who helped to rebuild the first 2 miles! :)!

Finally had a chance to try-out White Chuck Bench. I love these kinds of trails in the "off-season," when daylight is short and the high country is all icy and forbidding. Besides, Mina's not getting any younger, and these days a hike like this is about right for the ol' girl. As prior reports state, some nice improvements have been made in the first couple of km (why are there KM markers here? Somebody from anywhere else in the world involved?)... beyond that the trail gradually degrades into brambles that may or may not be worth your time to penetrate. We gave up at about 2.5km or so, at an opening where you could see the River. Too cloudy to see much else. History note: at least twice the trail follows an old logging-railroad bed (probably 1920s vintage). You can tell it's a railroad not a road because it's cut into a V - roads just follow the contours, but railroads had to maintain a minimum curve radius and their routes would cut-off sharp bends in the terrain. Another thing I was considering is the possibility this was the original trail up the White Chuck before the logging road was punched-in on the other side of the river. That road has a symbolic, notorious reputation... and now that it's washed-out I'm hoping the Forest Service will leave it that way, since really it should never have been built in the first place. For background, read "Wilderness Alps: Conservation and Conflict in the North Cascades" by Harvey Manning, available at www.northcascades.org

After being cheated out of a chance to go hiking in November due to the awful weather I made my way out for a low mountain hike in the clear cold weather we are now having. I chose the White Chuck Bench because its low (listed at 1600ft.) and easy to get too. South of Darrington and paved most of the way, the only dirt I hit was the last mile or so after the White Chuck boat launch. The road was frozen solid from the cold nights but in great shape for a dirt road anyway. After going up a hill past a gravel pit I quickly found the trail sign on the right and parking on the left. When I got out of my truck I could see White Chuck Mtn. and another mountain peaking through the trees. The trail was flat at the start and easy to follow. Frosty and covered in leaves it went back about a 1/4 mile before turing left at a ledge where you could first hear the river. Along the way I saw frosted ferns and other signs of the cold weather. Soon after I found a spot were you could see the river still far below. Following the ledge the trail eventually dropped down an easy grade over a mile in and came to a footbridge crossing a creek around 1 1/2 miles? I came across occasional debris from the early winter storms but as of now its all things that can be stepped over. After crossing the creek I found a couple spots to stop and look at the river and its very frosty valley that was not receiving much sun at all. The bank was steep and I could not get down to the river proper. There was a long section that was squishy and would have been a muddy mess had it been warmer. I wandered another 1/2 mile or so past the footbridge but the trail got harder and harder to find. There are some ribbons to lead the way but eventually the trail got to brushy to follow easily. I stopped when I found a possible spot to finally get down on the river but opted not to for fear of losing the trail on the way back. After a quick rest I turned around and headed back. I stopped at one of the river overlooks on the way back in a patch of sun and enjoyed the moment in a cold breeze before making my way back to the parking lot. I spent a little over 2 hours on the trail in all. A nice way to spend some time outside as winter comes on. This trail would make a great walk in the woods for a family or others looking for an easy stroll outdoors.

Lost Creek Ridge #646 -- Lake Byrne -- White Chuck #643 -- PCT #2000 -- White Pass -- North Fork Sauk #649 Loop A farewell to summer. The crux of this spectacular loop is the White Chuck River crossing. If you have good log-crossing skills, you will not find this difficult and don't let it deter you, although the consequences of a fall could be serious. It's an easy shinny if you don't want to walk it. Might be more exciting at high water! Don't fall, OK? My 21 lb. Welsh corgi accompanied me with minimal help. Maps: Green Trails Sloan Peak and Glacier Peak; USGS 7.5' Sloan Peak, Glacier Peak West, and Glacier Peak East (optional). The 7.5' maps might be useful if much of the Lost Creek Ridge trail is under snow, otherwise it's easy to follow. DAY 1 9/26/09 Stashed pack at Lost Creek Ridge #646. Parked at N Fork Sauk #649 and biked back. 8:10 start Lost Creek Ridge. If you like working out on a Stairmaster, you will love this long, steady, steep, smooth, soft grade all the way to Round Lake pass, a great warmup workout (just going as far as Round Lake will be rewarding enough for many). Don't expect it to last. Past Round Lake, it gets rougher and slower with a lot of up-and-down. A level ridge walk? Not! Count the contours it crosses. Some north-side spots might be arguably ice-axe terrain if hard snow. Berries were a significant hindrance, no joke, garbanzo-sized blueberries and huckleberries as thick as I've seen them. Resistance is futile; they WILL slow you down. Some windfall, not a problem. 3:35 Map edge. Saw a bear north of Camp Lake. Carried night's water from Camp Lake to high plateau between Camp & Byrne; low-impact gravel sites are available with fine views. Camp Lake has fine campsite, and there are others along this trail. I removed considerable small obstacles. The trail is in good-enough shape. I loved it. DAY 2 9/27/09 10:15 LV high camp between Camp Lk & Byrne Lk 10:45 LV Byrne Lk. Trail down the White Chuck R. is steep and rugged/rooty in places, but good-enough. About 2 dozen blowdown remain, most just stepovers, I removed many small things, not a major hindrance. A nest of larger blowdown just at the river might obscure the trail if you're going uphill, but look and you'll find it, it's not hard to follow if not under snow. Cairns at riverbank. 12:20 White Chuck R. (delayed by trail cleanup). I think Kennedy Ck. changed its course in the flood and the confluence is now upstream of where it's marked on the 1988 7.5' map. I did not reconnoitre a crossing of the White Chuck below Kennedy Ck to pick up Kennedy Ridge Tr #639, but I think it could be done. Now, at low water, there's a log crossing you might have to wade to. The logs crossing the White Chuck R. are a couple hundred yards upstream of the Lake Byrne trail, upstream of the confluence, cairned, easy to find. At least 3 possibilities. If you are comfortable with log crossings, I don't think you'll find this difficult. "Best" log is 20-30' long, 7' high, 2+' diameter, smooth, level. I belayed the corgi (who walked across with no hesitation and didn't understand the fuss), shinnied it with my pack, and walked it upright without a pack. See photos. I was across the White Chuck -- upstream of the confluence -- 30 min. after reaching the river, not hurrying at all. [Edit 2013: if you want to get to the old Guard Station site and Tr#649 to the PCT, in 2011 I found a good log across Kennedy Ck; cross White CHuck R upstream of the confluence, then cross Kennedy Ck usptream of the confluence.] 1:35 LV White Chuck R. on Trail #643 From the point of the confluence, between the two rivers (there's an old signboard there), bushwhack straight uphill for 20-40 yards and you'll hit the trail, can't miss it. I found flags and stakes for the new short repair section (not started yet). I did not cross Kennedy Ck. #643 is heavily built, in fine shape with only a little blowdown. I cleared out a lot of small stuff. As it climbed SE, I found an unexpected fork; I took the left (E), more heavily-built trail. I think this is newer. I'm guessing that the right (W) fork rejoins at the PCT somewhere S of Sitkum Ck (signed junction at PCT; I forgot to note location). 2:45 PCT South of here, a fine flat fast deep-forest walk on cruise control. 4:20 Baekos Ck 4:50 footbridge over White Chuck R, one of the best bridges. Get in Stairmaster mode again and climb up the inner headwall. A couple luscious clearings. Nice camp on PCT about 5400? just as its entering the alpine basins. 6:35 camp DAY 3 9/28/09 9:10 LV camp. You can simply ascend PCT to Red Pass (Portal Peak would be a recommended ascent). I left the PCT, traversing eastwards up the Glacier Peak Meadows, following the upper White Chuck R. This is very pristine country; be careful with your feet. There is a path much of the way. Please don't mess it up. 10:20 LV the White Chuck at 5840' and ascended E or SE to high basin at 6200, then S to ridge notch W of Pt. 6770. Note: if you don't want to scramble the ridge crest, look down south and you'll see the old sheep trail that leads to White Pass. 12:15 back to ridge from ascent of 6770. Followed crest W to White Mt. One crag was bypassed on the south. The crest is an easy scramble, no problem for the corgi. 1:45 White Mt. summit. Saw 2 people at White Pass, the only people I saw after Byrne Lk. No cellphone service at White Pass. 2:10 LV White Mt. summit. 3:00 LV White Pass 5:00 Mackinaw Shelter 7:00 Pilot Ridge Tr jct. 7:45 N Fk Sauk trailhead. North Fork Sauk #649 has seen massive improvements this year by Darrington trail crews, major new stretches and a gorgeous new log bridge over Red Creek, a work of art. I walked this in late July, and the changes since then are amazing! Thank you Darrington! They were working in that heat wave. Water was generally not an issue. I wonder how many hundreds of people clamber over blowdown obstacles that one person can simply shove out of the way fairly easily? Similarly, all those stony sections with loose ankle-turner rocks? What if every passerby removed half-a-dozen of them? 3 days of freedom in ideal weather. Flouting custom, the first raindrops fell as soon as I started the drive home. Just walking the dog.