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My nephew and I hiked 29 miles (29.5 including the walk down Hwy 12 from Kracker barrel store to the White Pass trail head, which is clearly marked on the left side of the road as you head West on Hwy 12) to Chinook pass July 8 and 9, 2019. Having covered over half of the WA PCT in the past couple of years, I'll say the first 12 miles of this stretch were as gentle as I've seen on the WA PCT. Wide tread in lots of places and pine needles too, making for soft footfalls.
Weather was generally good, with intermittent light rain, and water sources plentiful (we got all our water from streams though there are plenty of lakes too). The first 12 miles were very buggy. Used lots of bug juice which helped while moving. Stopping for a second was to be swarmed by squadrons of mosquitos. Once past Bumping River, about 12 miles in, the bugs subside and are quite manageable. Before that we saw many people hiking with mosquito nets over their heads. About the Bumping River crossing, the bridge is out and there is a 2.5 - 3' diameter log on which my nephew easily crossed with his, then my pack. I decided a butt scoot was the better option for my nearly 60 year body, and would advise that some upper body strength is required. Also helpful to have a young, strong nephew willing to take your pack across. Other option would have been to ford the stream, which would have been wet and cold, but entirely doable as the deepest parts looked to be 18".
We camped at Crag Lake outlet where there are two serviceable tent sites that could probably both handle 2 maybe 3 two-person tents. This site is 16 miles in. One of the sites has a very nice territorial outlook. There is plenty of water close-by too.
Second day we were treated to blue skies and plenty of Mt. Rainier views. Terrain was much more inclined for the next 13 miles into Chinook with a few steep sections, especially rising up to Tipsoo Junction. Quite manageable by comparison to WA Section "J" though. We saw six elk (two young ones) toward the end of day 1.
This is a beautiful hike that could be done in 1 or 3 days depending on fitness, start time, and pack size. Highly recommended for an overnight or two.
Hope a photo was added. Tried several times and ended up losing the trip report, so added or not, this is going to have to do.
Enjoy! Yakman
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What a beautiful trail! The wildflowers were out, great temperatures, and elk in the meadows. We left the trailhead about 10 in the morning and had a beautiful hike. The only downside was the mosquitoes-they started about a mile or two into the hike and did not stop until we were almost to the Bumping Stream crossing (about 13 miles in). Any time we rested for more than a couple minutes, it was a swarm. That aside, there were multiple types of wildflower-Indian Paintbrush, Lupine, Phlox, and more blooming. A cow elk and her spring calf ran across the trail not more than 50 yards from us, definitely a highlight of the trip. Fellow hikers were friendly and there were limited signs of others-Leave No Trace is definitely being followed. There were several lakes for water, as well as smaller stream crossings for filtering water. There were several trees fallen across the trail but not hard to get around, some larger streams that were also not hard to cross. I imagine this trail would be even more amazing on horseback. There were some patches of snow, especially north of the Bumping River, but nothing hard to cross.
We camped just south of the Bumping River crossing on the hillside, as it was the only place the mosquitoes were bearable. Bumping has a downed tree as a crossing, which was a little unnerving for my hiking partner and I, but not bad with trekking poles. We filtered our water here for the day, though there were several other spots later on that we could have as well, and noticed some great camping spots. Shortly after we crossed, we saw ~35 elk in the meadow-so cool to hear and see them. We ran into more hikers this day than previously, especially as we got closer to Dewey Lakes. Dewey Lakes are beautiful and plenty of campsites here.
Other than the mosquitoes it was a great trail, would love to do it again, though probably over two nights instead of one. I would recommend bringing a lot of bug spray and netting to make it a better or more enjoyable trip. Thanks to those following the Leave No Trace, maintaining the trail, etc.!
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September 3, 2018
PCT White Pass to Chinook Pass
Did as a thru hike, left car at Chinook Pass (smaller lot on east side of foot bridge over Hwy 410) Friend dropped us off at White Pass PCT trail head. Trail is fairly gentle to Pipe Lake and clearly marked. We leap frogged with a half dozen PCT thru hikers over the next two and half days. Since it was about three hour drive from Seattle to Chinook Pass then to White Pass we hiked about half a day to Pipe Lake. (Approximately 7.5) We camped at one of three sites on the lake that had been used before. Two of the sites should not be used, too close to lake and trail. Leave no trace not being practiced by others as there were stablished fire rings at all three sites and unburied waste. We did some mitzvah bloom/waste burials but suggest a real shovel if you go as trowel was not sufficient to do needed clean up for no trace. What is it with folks who bring in grates and pots then leave them in the fire pit like someone else is going to pick up after them? We left the site we used cleaner than when we arrived. A half dozen of the thru hikers camped at Snow Lake.
One of the hikers we chatted with along the way was more familiar with mushrooms and pointed out several edible varieties on the trail but bugs had already gotten to them. None were varieties I was familiar with.
Concern: There is a nice bridge crossing Bumping River. We stopped here for lunch. There was a car garage size tent set up and behind it some tarps and pits had been dug up that contained additional shelters and tarps. Did not look like approved 48 hour cache, nor did it appear to be intended for limited occupancy. Maybe Ok and a boy scout troop coming in but made me a bit nervous. Also leave no trace not in practice.
Just after crossing log across stream we could smell fire smoke but only at that point. Think it was coming along the creek bed with the wind. As soon as we headed away from the creek air was clear. Later that day when we were fairly high and closer to ridge line, we could see a plume of smoke from a smaller forest fire below.
On day two and three we had more steep climbs and more of the ankle turning loose rock on the trail. We hiked about 12 miles on day two and three. Thru hikers were having no issues at twice our pace but they liked to take breaks, start earlier and hike later so we did leap frog a bit.
We had Crag Lake as a possible campsite for day two but trail to the lake is not marked or we missed it. Even if we had seen the trail, the required amount of down and then back up, we would not have gone to the lake. If looking for fish, suggest giving it a try, spend a couple days. We could see fish jumping from way up on the trail.
Opted for previously used camp on what I think is an unnamed lake on the map a little beyond Crag Lake. Trail was obvious off the PCT but site is across a meadow so earlier in the year would likely be wet. Again, leave no trace not in practice. Camp had fire pit, grate and bloom/waste. Also, on the ground by the grate was the metal sign that had been vandalized and removed from Fish Lake! There was space for all three small tents in one spot in the trees. At dusk as we were setting up the tents, herd of elk ran through one end of the small lake going away from the trail and camp. We listened to them crashing through the woods and bugling into the night. At the rate they travel, probably into the next county by now.
Day three had about the same amount of uphill as the previous 12 miles but the view along this mileage was the best. Completed about 12 miles to Chinook Pass and drove back to Seattle. Green map calculated section as over 30 miles, PCT data book has it as under 30. There are plenty of places to camp along the route so you could spread the mileage over more days. The last portion of day three is downhill into Chinook Pass but the grade is well designed, gradual and not an issue for the knees. In fact none of the downhill on this trail was an issue for my knees.
Blueberries were ripe along the trail, more in some areas than others. And as expected, on the trail to go with the berries, observed fair amount of bear and some coyote scat. At a couple of the rocky slide areas marmots and Pika were out in plain view. One Pika was so close to the trail it was visible inside the nest area. Seasonal streams were without water. Plenty of lakes and reliable streams so no need to pack extra water.
One mosquito bite at Dewey Lake. Companion had a couple at Pipe Lake.
Elk bugle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYzWmKlZtrU
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