Just returned from three days hiking along the PCT from White Pass to Chinook Pass.

Day One:

After dropping a car at Chinook Pass, we started out from the Leech Lake parking lot at White Pass around 10 a.m. No one else was in the parking lot except for a couple fishermen out on the lake. Saw one hiker heading south at the very beginning, but after that we had the trail almost completely to ourselves, which was a bit unexpected for a sunny Friday. Maybe the fires scared people away (Miriam fire is just a couple miles south of White Pass, and the ski area has turned into a firefighter's village, but the wind kept most of the smoke away for the first day). After slowly climbing through dry, quiet woods for a few miles, we began to meander past pretty meadows and little ponds on a flat, well-maintained trail. Looks like what I imagine Alaska to look like. Stopped for lunch around Sand Lake. Bugs were an annoyance, but with spray on didn't get many bites. Once we reached Beasch lake, the meadows and lakes were neverending, lots of birds and butterflies everywhere. Twice we heard what we thought were elk or deer stomping around just off the trail, but didn't see anything. Passed several piles of bear scat as well, but again, didn't see anything. We reached Snow Lake by 3 p.m., and found a great campsite on the south side of the lake. Only passed about three people the entire hike in, but a large (and loud) group joined us later in the evening. Other than that it was a quiet night... until around 5 a.m. with what we are guessing was a bull elk woke us up with loud bellowing that went on for about half an hour. ***

Day Two:

Started out from Snow Lake around 9 a.m., enjoying more of that Northern woods-like scenery for a couple miles, although the wind had changed directions and it was getting smokier. Started leap-frogging between two groups, including the one that had been at Snow Lake the night before, and continued to do so for the rest of the day, but again, less people on the trail than expected. We dropped down into the Bumping River valley, following the river along the way, which we then crossed at the bottom. No bridge, but rocks and a well-positioned log meant we stayed dry. Hiking poles were helpful as well. After the crossing, we started climbing up the other side of the valley. This switchback section took a lot longer than expected. While the grade is gentle, some of those switchbacks seemed at least a half mile long, and it dragged on and on. Fish lake and Crag lake looked pretty down below. After passing Crag lake, we came out of the woods and started up the last couple switchbacks through meadows bursting with blueberries. Surprised we didn't see any bears. The views kept growing as we kept climbing, but unfortunately the smoke obscured most of the distant peaks. When we finally reached the top, we were hot, exhausted, and doubting our plan to make it to American Lake that night. But a gentle downward grade and views of Mount Rainier gave us energy and we kept pushing on through high meadows. Flowers are past their peak but still pretty, and spotted marmots and pika in the rock fields. Considered calling it a day at Two Lakes when we reached the junction, but decided to head on, climbing a bit more and then continuing to follow the ridge up to a high grassy basin. From here we dropped down a couple switchbacks (which had us wondering if we made a wrong turn, as they weren't indicated on our map), then finally reached the junction with American Ridge trail. Its an easy half mile or so to the lake. Almost every campsite was gone at that point, as we didn't get there until 5 p.m., but managed to find a place and settled in for the night. Despite the fair number of people, it was quiet, with the moon glowing over the high peak above. 

Day Three:

Left American lake at 8 a.m. for our last (and shortest) day. We'd done this stretch before a few years back, and although the smoke was a damper it's still a great hike on the side of a steep ridge, blueberries and pika in abundance. Was surprised again to see almost no one between American Lake and Dewey lake, and it also seemed that hardly anyone was camped at Dewey. Started the climb out of Dewey lake just after 10 a.m. It was already panning out to be a warm day, so we were definitely sweating when we reached the top, but nothing compared to those long switchbacks the day before. We kept on the PCT for the final leg of our hike, and passed by a freeway of people doing the loop to Tipsoo lake. Didn't see any other backpackers. Stayed left after reaching the highway to cross the bridge and head to the upper parking lot, and reached the car by noon. 

All in all, this is a great hike, trail is perfectly maintained, scenery is beautiful, bugs and crowds weren't bad either. While WTA strongly recommends going south to north as we did, I think it would be perfectly fine to go the opposite direction. Yes, you'd go through the prettiest part on your first day, but you'd also be going down the switchbacks, which is always nice. Also would recommend waiting for the smoke to clear out for better views of Rainier and the other peaks in the area. 

***EDIT: after posting I looked up some videos of elk sounds just to confirm that's what we heard... and it sounded nothing like it. Looked up some videos of bears barking for comparison... and it was an exact match. Not sure what a bear was barking for at 5 a.m. for such a long time, but glad we thought it was an elk at the time!

Great hike! Did it in three days, staying the first night at snow lake, which was a great spot for a swim! Second night at two lakes, stunning view and lots of fish jumping. Day three was hiking out, starting hailing at Duey lake and rain/hailed all the way out. Had dinner the first night with a solo through hiker named Two Miles, nice kid was enjoying the trail magic he had found. 

Barely any snow throughout the entirety of the trail. It was dry and in perfect shape for hiking. The mosquitoes were thick, even with spray and a head net its annoying enough that taking a break isn't much of an option (unless you quickly set up your tent for a hide-out).

It's an easy, relatively flat trail. Perfect for beginners, or getting warmed up for more elevation. Not quite as "scenic" as advertised, the north end is decent, but the rest is just OK.