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White Pass - Pilot Ridge Loop — Aug. 14, 2020

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Beware of: bugs, road conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming
  • Ripe berries
 

Overall, this hike is absolutely spectacular and you should go do it.  The combination of endless wildflower fields and mountain views basically the entire time once you've climbed is simply breathtaking.  However, the bugs were a huge bummer and unfortunately detracted from the experience.  

We decided to go clockwise after reading several reviews on here and other websites.  The last day was going to be the hottest, and we were concerned about descending from white pass in the sun (while the descent from pilot ridge is mostly shaded).  There was also concern about whether we could get a spot to camp at White Pass on Saturday night as opposed to Friday night with all the Glacier Peak climbers etc.  Lastly, the Pilot Ridge climb just looked steeper on the map.    

The 5 miles until Mackinaw Shelter is a very pleasant, fairly flat warm-up.  The climb was pretty brutal, mainly because of the bugs.  As soon as we would stop to rest, we would be swarmed by black flies who cared very little about bug repellant.  I can't remember exactly, but less than half of the climb is in the woods, which is actually great if you care about having instant gratification from the hard work.  We got to White Pass around 4pm (we left the parking lot around 10:30) and it was already pretty crowded.  There were probably 20-25 tents at nightfall, but plenty of spots to camp as long as you're not picky.  The mosquitoes were supremely annoying.  

We were actually on the fence as to whether to continue or turn back because of the bugs, but once we got to the top of White Pass and looked down at the beautiful valley to the east, we decided we had to keep going. We were glad we did, because following the PCT for the next 3 miles or so had to be the most gorgeous stretch of hiking I've ever done.  Endless fields of wildflowers of various colors, Glacier Peak views, the valleys down below...just breathtaking.  We stopped in our tracks several times just to take it all in. 

The Blue Lake high route is pretty treacherous...narrow, steep, consisting of loose rocks on dry dirt for much of the way both up and down.  Recommend a hiking pole or two for balance going down.  Blue Lake was fairly crowded when we got there around 5pm (leaving White Pass around 11:30), but we got a great spot by the stream that runs between the two lakes.  FYI the toilet at Blue Lake is almost full, so don't count on that as an option.    

Pilot Ridge was similarly awesome, with the flowers, the valleys, and views of Sloan Peak.  The descent from Pilot Ridge was not awesome.  It was interminable and steep.  It seemed way longer than our climb up to White Pass, but maybe that was psychological.  I had read that there is no water between Blue Lake and the River, but actually, around 1/3 of the way down the steep part, there is a really nice stream that served as a great spot to refill our water.  It didn't look like it would dry up anytime soon, either. 

FYI, crossing the North Fork Sauk River involves crossing a fairly large log without rails (the log w/rails is the one over Red Creek), and then scooting across a smaller log on your bum.  Or at least, that's what I was comfortable with.  That water looked cold.  

So, it was awesome, but very buggy.  Bathe in DEET before you go.  You might smell like it forever, but at least you'll get to fully enjoy this hike, which is truly phenomenal.   

White Pass - Pilot Ridge Loop — Aug. 12, 2020

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
4 photos
Beware of: bugs
  • Wildflowers blooming

12 people found this report helpful

 

WOW! This is one of the most beautiful loops I've ever done! Going clockwise, you start out on the gentle North Fork Sauk River trail, which has some of the biggest trees I've ever seen! It feels like you are in the rainforest. On our first day, it was overcast, and once we were about 2 miles from White Pass, a freezing wind started and stayed until the next day. It was probably in the low 40s, and the wind blew all night, but kept bugs away. In the morning, the clouds lifted and we were able to see all the peaks behind the camp. Our second day was all ridges and the views just never stopped! Water is very scarce so best to fill up before leaving White Pass. We decided to take the Blue Lakes High Route...this is a beast! The snow is mostly melted and the trail is very easy to follow. We were the first to Blue Lake and got the best site at the lake, on a hill surrounded by trees. The cold wind was still blowing, but the clouds had cleared so it was sunny and cold at the same time. Mosquitoes are BAD at the lake. The pit toilet at camp is just about full. The third day you start with a big climb, and the views are amazing.There are no water sources from Blue Lake until about 6 miles, so fill up before you leave! Those last miles with descending switchbacks were pretty tough on my knees, but I was glad to be going down instead of up! Such a beautiful hike, we are so lucky to get to enjoy this place!  

4 photos
Beware of: bugs, trail conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming
  • Ripe berries

8 people found this report helpful

 

I headed out on a day hike on the North Fork Sauk River trail, unsure of how far I would go. Starting at 10:30am, the first 6-7 miles on the North Fork trail are very nice old-growth forest walking with some gradual elevation gain. There is a large tree to climb over on the trail at one spot. And keep a watch out for bears, I passed one I could have reached out and poked, right off the trail on my way back out to my car at dusk, between the Pilot Ridge trail junction and the trailhead.

After the nice forest walking, it turned into a grueling climb in the sun up the switchbacks to get to the PCT. The climb itself wouldn't have been too bad, but if you stop to take a break in the shade, the black flies and bugs swarm like crazy. Bring lots of bug protection, possibly a headnet, if you're up here in the next couple weeks. The trail is also quite rocky here with some muddy sections as some streams run down the trail. There are some good views looking back at Whitehorse mountain, and the sun exposure does lend to some beautiful meadows.

Once I got up to the PCT, if was nice to be walking on a more graded trail with wonderful meadows and views. So many wildflowers are out right now! I turned south on the PCT, hoping to get a view of Glacier Peak at White Pass. Once I got there, I realized it was still blocked by a ridge in front of me. So I looked at my map and decided to climb White mountain from the pass to get a view. I left my day pack at the bottom and hiked the little boot path going up the ridgeline. You see great views to the south going up, and then suddenly cresting the top of White Mtn, there was Glacier Peak!! Well worth the extra climb. Lots of marmots running around, and a number of backpackers coming up the North Fork Sauk trail to camp at White Pass. 

I turned around at that point and after a small break at the pass, at 6pm I hightailed it back to my car. Ended up making it out without needing my headlamp, back to the trailhead a little after 9pm. I hiked a lot more than I thought I would, 22 miles total and over 7000 ft elevation, but the drive to see more just kept me exploring :)

White Pass - Pilot Ridge Loop — Aug. 10, 2020

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
4 photos
  • Wildflowers blooming
  • Ripe berries

15 people found this report helpful

 

Did this loop as a two-night trip headed clockwise Aug 7-9. 

Day1: North Fork Sauk River TH to White Pass:10.2 miles, 4000 ft gain  

Day2: White Pass to Blue Lake: 11.5 miles, 2000 ft gain 

Day3: Blue lake to TH via Pilot Ridge: 11.0 miles, 1700 ft gain 

Road conditionsThe forest road isn't too rough of a drive. Potholes and washboard are prevalent but not threatening. It is narrow, though-- and the road is often shared with vans and other large vehicles. We saw almost no one on the road heading in on Friday so the traffic heading out on a Sunday afternoon was quite a shock. We followed a Prius out so I'd say most cars would be just fine. It should be noted, though, that my GPS from WTA directions had me take a right at the fork in the road with the North Sauk Campground-- obey the sign there and turn left instead. This is the last true turn before the TH. Maybe I was the only one to experience this per spotty cell service and GPS out there, but I thought I'd give the heads up if others experience it, too.  Parking was not an issue, even with a full parking lot. Lots of room to park around the campground. 

Trail Conditions: By traveling clockwise about the loop from the TH you welcome yourself with a moderate 5-6 mile warm-up with a mostly flat trail and about 1000 ft gain through the trees. You'll follow the river for the majority of this section. Almost immediately after passing the remains of the Mackinaw shelter your climb begins. Views slowly start to open up as you switchback up about 3000 in 3.3 miles on an exposed trail with the occasional break of trees. Once you hit the ridgeline, you'll traverse through beautiful wildflowers until you meet with the PCT. Small streams offer an opportunity to fill water if desired, entertained by vast mountain views. As you reach White Pass, a sign to your right directs you down into the meadow where camping is permitted. We arrived early to camp at about 4 to a half a dozen tents, and, after claiming our spot, many more began to fill in. That being said, the meadow didn't feel crowded because there are many spots to camp. Streams to the right for water filtering. There is also a camp toilet to the left as you descend into the valley (the sign is broken and made it a little tricky to find). The next morning we ascended back up to the pass and made our way to Blue lake. The hike from White pass to Dishpan gap is mellow for the most part as a rolling trail. The wildflowers on the pct section of this trail are still magnificent and present most of the way to the junction for the high blue lake trail. I can't say for the mountain views because our visibility was near nothing and we could only see 20 yards ahead of us for the 9 miles or so on the PCT. I can only imagine how beautiful it must be.  There are several opportunities to filter water, including at two separate ponds. When you junction for the blue lakes at Dishpan gap, you'll be met with another junction where you'll stay to the right and begin to ascend to Blue Lake on a narrow and steep trail. Part of the ascent is on scree and slippery when wet. Soon enough, you'll reach the ridge where you might be greeted with 360 views on a clear day (or more clouds and a marmot for us). I imagine you could also see blue lake from here. You'll then descend on the opposite side of the ridge you climbed on a trail nearly as steep and an unforgiving valley were you to miss-step. There are some campsites above the lake, but if you continue to descend across them, you're welcomed into the lake basin with much room to camp. Once again, I was happy to arrive early at just before 2 to get a good camp spot. Blue lake filled in even more than white pass by the evening with likely 20 tents. Again, there is lots of room and so it does not feel too crowded. There is a camp toilet to the left after you cross the creek leaving the lake. The basin is beautiful, and, as the clouds began to burn off, the Monte Cristo range could be viewed, as well as little blue lake from above. The next morning, we followed the trail on a quick ascent along the ridgeline to the junction for johnson mountain. The trail along the ridgeline is rolling as views of Sloan Peak open up and the Monte Cristo Range slaps you in the face. <<The bees were particularly present here with the ABUNDANCE of wildlfowers-- especially lupine. I'm genuinely surprised I was never stung.I imagine they'd be bad up near white pass, too, but with our weather, they weren't out. The wind up there also probably keeps them at bay>> Your mountain views slowly start to disappear, but not before Glacier Peak comes into view to the right. After your final stretch of the ascent of about 400 ft, you begin your steep descent of switchbacks. Water is scarce between Blue lake and the North fork of the Sauk River. There are a couple streams near the fork, but that's nearly 8 miles in. Lingering Snow patches could offer something to melt in a pinch, but its best to plan to carry the most of the water you'll need for the day. There are a dozen trees down across the trail on Pilot ridge but none of them are difficult to navigate. Crossing the river at the junction for the trail to White pass is not an issue-- there is a log to the left that is very sturdy. There are some ripe wild blueberries just before you cross the river. From this junction, it is a quick two miles back to the TH. 

WildlifeMany marmots at and just before white pass, at the ridge just before blue lake, and on the stretch between blue lake and the johnson mountain junction. Several grouse, two deer, chipmunks, mice, hawks, small lizards. I assume the camps were too busy to bring the attention of larger animals. Lots of butterflies and dragonflies, too. The bugs weren't too bad but I assume that is mostly because of the weather. Found them to be worse at white pass than blue lake. A couple of day hikers we passed had said they had fished at Blue Lake, too. 

Gear: Good traction footwear is optimal. Many scree-like sections. I forgot to grab a trekking pole at home before I left and wished I hadn't. They would have been very helpful. I rarely use poles. Microspikes/ yak trax unnecessary for the few receding snow patches. All can be navigated around if desired. 

People: Everyone was respectful and did their best to social distance. Most if not all hikers wore face coverings. 

It gets colder out here at hight than you'd probably think if you're not familiar with the North Cascades. My Garmin showed a wind chill of 39 degrees F at night and it definitely felt it. Both Blue lake and White pass are at about 5600-5700 ft elevation. 

Beautiful trail best explored on clear days! I was pleasantly surprised to find the trail to not be overly crowded, even for a weekend! Will certainly be back on that PCT section for the views! Happy Hiking!

RT Stats: 32.7 miles, 7700 ft gain. excluding mileage and gain from around camp. 

White Pass - Pilot Ridge Loop — Aug. 7, 2020

North Cascades > Mountain Loop Highway
Beware of: bugs, road conditions
  • Wildflowers blooming

1 person found this report helpful

 

Other reviews here are great, I just wanted to add something about the Blue Lake High Route given mid-August conditions. Please do not apply this to June or July. I have not done it then, don't know what those conditions are like, but am sure that snow would make the high route much more difficult.

Anyways, I was expecting more exposure and difficulty on the descent to Blue Lake based on other comments I have read on this site and others. But in mid August, the route is completely snow-free and there were no scrambling moves. Poles definitely do help though. The trail is easy to follow so I wouldn't say that it requires route finding skills at this time of year. It is steep and has scree, but did not feel more challenging than the many steep sections on the descent to the Sauk on the Pilot Ridge trail, which are often wet and have rocks and roots.

And last a plug - I agree with other reviews this loop is so beautiful and Blue Lake campsite is amazing.