This was an overnight, lasso-shaped loop of Chain Lakes and Ptarmigan Ridge. Somehow we had never been to either. Set out around 11 a.m. Aug. 13 from Bagley Lakes trailhead, where early mountain views — Tomyhoi! Larrabee! Goat! — soon shift focus to Shuksan, then Baker. The giant parking lot was less than half full on a mostly sunny Saturday. Yet the beaten trail itself was crowded with kids, dogs, elderly folks, and big groups. Once we crossed Herman Saddle the people diminished, but we never felt even close to alone. The Chain Lakes below were bugged by flies but dreamlike in beauty, especially Iceberg: teenagers jumping off tall rocks into the water; one older guy fishing from an inflatable boat; bizarre craggy cliffs all around. And more views of Baker around the corner at Mazama Lake. At a gentle pace, refueling on water once, we hit the junction to Ptarmigan Ridge around 2 p.m.
The ridge trail opens with descending switchbacks, a short sturdy steep snowfield or two, then an ascent along surreal moon-like volcanic rock and more exhausting uphill snowfields. The trail flattens out, ringed with meadow grass and blooming purple lupine. Many people camped in those first 1 ½ miles, where there’s snow for water, the campsites are broken in, and the views of the North Cascades are already amazing. We wanted to see where the trail led, though. So we marched another 2 ½ miles or so, over rock and intermittent snow, to something resembling solitude at Camp Kiser, as Baker grew bigger, and grander, and more majestic. We pitched a tent beside an illegal campfire ring, behind trees that sheltered the wind, a good distance from everyone else on the plateau. Right by our camp we had a trickle of a snowmelt stream, deep enough to pump water, when needed. Around 5 p.m. we took off for the Portals, and while most maps say there’s no trail, it’s well-established. All along that ridgeline are camps with amazing views, and while water is scarce, there’s lots of snow to melt. (But not much to cross.) No one camped above the first ridge — and I wonder why, because the highest sites have the best views. We hit the trail terminus around 6:30 p.m., hung out for a bit, and climbed back hungry for dinner. We barely stayed up for leftover Perseid meteors.
Woke up to sun rising behind Mount Redoubt, and after packing up, we decided to tackle the Coleman Pinnacle. We took a direct, steep, sketchy route from the plateau — I don’t know if there’s another — leaving behind all but one pack with water and a camera. The scramble is a little dicey, with loose boulders and certain death below, but we made it. The top was the highlight of the hike. Lowlight was the trek back down. Halfway back to the junction, another group pointed out a mountain goat along the ridgeline, very close, that we’d been oblivious to. Rest of the hike out was hot, and the Artist Point parking lot was packed. Wild Goose trail hugged the highway, and crossed busy parking lots (twice) and the busy road (once). Finished the loop for a total of, let’s say, 20 miles. Overall, great hike.