Sunday morning Aug.1 I arrived at the Longmire WIC just after 7 AM and was fourth in line for a permit. I had no trouble securing a permit for three nights up in Cowlitz Park (XCOW). It was smoky and hazy as I drove over to Box Canyon, the mountain hardly visible.
The hike was straight forward, I have done it many times. Plenty of flowers in bloom in the higher elevation meadows along the WT. Arrived up in Cowlitz Park in early afternoon and secured one of my old camp sites (I call it the balcony) with unobstructed views of R and Indian Bar. It remained hazy/smoky all day, biting insects: flies and mosquitos were annoying, but not as bad as they were several weeks earlier when I was over in Grand Park and Curtis Ridge. Plenty of running water near by. I hiked around upper CP (where it transitions from subalpine to alpine) late in the afternoon/eve. Large pockets of lupine in peak bloom, mixed with Indian Paintbrush (C. Parviflora), Rainier louseworts, Birds Beak Louseworts, etc. All came across a heard of some 35 m. goats. It was a warm and humid night...
Next day dawned hazy/smoky and humid but proceeded to jump back onto the WT headed for Ohanapecosh Park. On the descent into Indian Bar- loads of lupine, paintbrush and pasque flowers (seed heads). In the meadows at the bottom, Sitka Valerian, Rainier louseworts, bistort and some lupine. On the ascent (north slope but with a southerly aspect)- plenty of bistort, valerian, and masses of subalpine asters. Half way up and I departed the WT and made a descent into the southern part of Oh. Park. I had explored the northern half the pervious August. The two halves are bisected by a fairly deep ravine and stream (headwaters of the Boulder Creek), which a hiker can probably cross and make the traverse; but being a solo hiker without a beacon, decided not to try this time.
Lots of flowers in the park: large patches of lupine. Travel is a bit slow as there are many ravines, of various depths, that have to be crossed. It can be slippery as well. There are some game trails but generally its make make your own way with an effort to making the least impact possible. Several waterfalls/cascades flow off the eastern wall. After reaching the deep ravine, I decided to turn around and exit the same way I had entered.
After lunch I descended the WT to Indian Bar and then proceeded up the valley floor along the Oh. River as far as I could go. I have always wanted to do this but have always been in a hurry. It was hot but took my time and wandered up the southern (left) side of the outwash plain. Crossed the creek many times just to cool off. It took about 30 minutes to get up to the narrow gorge, which by the way has some very distinct columnar jointing (very light rock: tan to creamy- definitely not basalt or andesite ?). There is no way through the gorge; tried to go high and see if there were any views of the waterfall, which is visible from my camp site in CP. Hiked up the steep creek bed (a bit of a boot path) and then a short traverse across the slope, but it dead ends at another very steep gorge, and no views of the falls. The only way to get a view is to go very high up on the slope above the multi gorges- not for the faint of heart.
Walked back down the valley on the south side- large patches of Lewis and Mountain Monkey Flowers along the water courses. Made the hot ascent back to CP. That evening took the tripod and camera and took some long exposures photos of some of the local waterfalls. There were some cumulus clouds hanging around the summit of R and to the east, the late evening lighting was hitting the edge of the clouds so took many photos as the light levels diminished. During the night it was fairly clear overhead but I still could make out plenty of smoke/hazy on the horizon.
Next day- atmospheric conditions were about the same, so nixed the idea over heading up to Little Tahoma, and as a substitute decided to head back to Oh. Park, but this time to the northern portion. Back on the WT..Indian Bar..., descend into the park by mid-morning. Massive stands of lupine, was heading for the lake in the eastern sector, which one can see from a distance. Went too high and had to loop around, but missed my landmarks and the lake, but not by much I later discovered. Nevertheless with just about every type of subalpine flower in bloom and a couple of gorgeous waterfalls, and no one around...tuff to beat. I have hiked a lot at Rainier, and Oh. Park is the best large display of flowers; makes Mazama Ridge, Berkley Park, Emerald Ridge, Spray Park, Tipsoo Lake, etc. look like the junior leagues!
It was a long hike back up to the WT and in and out of Indian Bar- but worth the effort. Another nice sunset with clouds around the peak. There were two additional parties in CP this last night- so the place is no secret but with the views and flowers- worth it.
Note: there is a very nice amphitheater shaped valley just south of the main area that most people camp in at CP. Look for Trixie Falls on a map; this is a prime peace of real-estate. There is also the small pond in upper CP and is deep enough for a dip. A nice half-day trip is to ascend the ridge and head for Little Tahoma; there are numerous snowfields up here (just south of the Oh. Glacier, spikes are not a bad idea although an ice axe is not required). This leads to a gap which gives tremendous views of R and LT. One can proceed along the edge of the Whitman Glacier and gain access to Whitman Crest.
It is possible to camp in the very large Oh. cross country zone (XOHA), higher up just off the WT (but out of sight) or lower down where it will be just you, the animals and flowers. Another option is on Sarvent Ridge (XSAR), where you will need to melt snow for water.
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