This was an awesome hike! We had great company and thoroughly enjoyed this overnight hike. You start by driving around Lake Cushman and parking in Staircase campgrounds just up from the Northwest corner of the Lake. We started this Hike late, around 5pm. Our plan was to camp @ Big Log Camp. With a light drizzle accompanying us almost the entire hike into Big Log, and making a few stops for photo ops and goofing off- we made camp in about 2hrs and 30mins. Much to our surprise, they have placed a privy at the entrance to the camp site. The ladies we were hiking with very much appreciated it. The campsite also boasts another amenity- Steel cable bear wire. MUCH better than figuring out how/ where to hang your food line. We camped next to an awesome family from Vancouver who provided us with some dry kindling for our wet fire pit. We were able to start a fire without having to forage too long for dry materials. If you read this, thank you very much- we greatly appreciated it. Mice were the only issue at the campsite, other than that the roaring river will put you right to sleep. We awoke to a sunny and rain-less day. We slowly packed up, made some flapjacks and hiked out. I will say, this is my first hike in the Olympic National Park. I will also say that it will probably be my last for awhile. Figuring out where to park, and what permits you need for hiking AND parking was an absolute nightmare! I called multiple places ahead of time seeking information on which permits were required/ needed. I was told that I could get all I need from the ranger station @ the Staircase park entrance. Well... the one at the entrance was closed. As well as the one at the parking/ camping area. We walked around the building and found a few Park rangers sitting in the back. Clearly off duty. One attempted to answer our questions (which we found out the next day he answered completely wrong...) We ended up paying way more than we needed too, and left unfortunately feeling quite frustrated with the situation... But I digress, this hike was BEAUTIFUL regardless of the rain and permit issues. I highly recommend it, and at some point I will return to hike into flapjack Lakes.

Flapjack lakes is snow-free all the way up. Mud from the wood bridges over the swampy terrain to Madeline creek. One or two blowdowns right before the top, and a few more on the west side of the perimeter of the lakes, but nothing to be worried about. Rained saturday afternoon and sunday morning + mid-day; anywhere from barely there mist to light drizzle. Only one other group up there during the night, and saw only 2 groups hiking down as I was going up. Walk-in permits should still be easy to get, but call the main office in Port Angeles to reserve; they cant do it at the staircase ranger station.

Went out for a solo three-day, two-night trip from Staircase in the Olympics. Day one, started on Monday to head up to Flapjack Lakes from Staircase campground. Pretty uneventful getting up there- no snow on trail, few bugs, trail in good condition, lakes thawed 100%. Saw five people total for the day; one pair camped at the lake. Stayed at the far west site so as to have the best view of the sawtooth range over lower lake. Lots of big flies and bees buzzing all over the flowers. Felt like I had my personal escorts, but they never bit. Some fish were visibly eating what I suspect was larva rising from the floor, for which the wooly bugger variety (lacking from my kit), may have been well-suited. Day two, hiked up the 1200 ft to Gladys Divide. Some snow maybe just for the last 1/2 mile. No post holing, generally nice conditions. After return to camp at lower Flapjack, packed up, and descended to take the fork toward Black and White Lakes. There was a fairly substantial blowdown 1/4 mile once in on the "primitive trail". Then it was a steep thigh-burner up the next 1100ft or so to get to the lake; one or two places with mild exposure on narrow trail canted toward long dropoffs below. Patches of snow above maybe 4100 ft. Saw two black bears 1/2 mile from the lakes. No huckleberries. Lake was partially thawed. Day three, ascended above B/W to the small peak listed at 4950ft NNE of lakes. Walked on snow and took some animal paths with a little scramble to get up there. Thought I'd be able to see Smith Lake but couldn't find it, though could just be the trees at the "summit" blocking my view. Then descended, packed camp, and took the primitive trail down to Big Log Camp. The walk on the ridge down from 4200 to 3600ft was glorious and felt very remote. Then the switchbacks and in-forest trail was just a fast exit. Not too many vistas along the way. Condition of the waytrail was could be worse; I never got lost. Some shrubs overgrown and crowding the trail, and one large blowdown about 1/2 mile from junction with the main trail. Lunched at Big Log Camp next to a gushing river, then cruised the last five miles on out. Hard work yes, but for a 2.5 hr drive from Seattle, in early June, the payoff was wonderful. I wonder when the last time anyone was at Smith Lake?

We knew this was going to be a very long day hike, so we started early, out of the house by seven, arriving at Staircase by nine o'clock. As always, the beginning of the Skokomish Trail was gentle and lovely as we ascended gradually upstream, passing through ancient cedars and western hemlocks and then through the still visible tree skeletons from the 1985 burn. After four miles, we paused for calories before heading up the Flapjack Lakes trail. This trail begins with a few switchbacks and LOSE (lots of salal everywhere). After about a mile and a half, the trail crosses the roaring Madeline Creek on a nice sturdy bridge, and then continues up another mile or so until it nears a second roaring waterway, Donahue Creek. The trail gets steeper at this point, following Donahue Creek higher and higher, eventually passing some very impressive waterfalls. After this, the trail gets even rougher and steeper for the last mile before finally reaching the lakes at 8 miles, and over three thousand feet of elevation gain. The two lakes are beautiful with a little isthmus between them which made a great lunch spot for us. We saw no snow, but lots of flowers on the way: trillium, queen's cup, bunch berry, and avalanche lilies. The way back down was pleasant but long, and we got back to the car by six o'clock, sixteen miles and nine hours on the trail.

Trail is completely snow free to Flapjack lakes with only a few patches around the lake. The trail to Gladys divide has some patches but I made it to about 4700 feet before hitting solid snow.