Departed Renton at 0800 on Tuesday morning. Weather in Seattle/Tacoma was warm and sunny. Stopped off in Port Orchard for last minutes supplies. Arrived at Staircase Ranger Station at 1100, elevation approx. 800 feet. Gave ourselves a ""warm and fuzzy"" when we shelled out the cash for the a yearly Nat. Park Pass.
Flapjack Lakes listed at 3,850 ft. elevation so a 3000 ft. gain overall. Bumped into one other couple from Rhode Island also making hike to Flapjacks. Then we loaded up our packs (40+ lbs. for me and about 25 lbs. for the wife) and set out. There was light rain early on. The first four miles up to NF Skok/Flapjack Lakes junction is well covered as is the majority of the remaining 4 miles. Weather changed rapidly from drizzle to sunshine to broken clouds and back again. First four miles to Flapjack Lakes junction are pretty damp with the occasional mudholes, nothing that can't be easily handled by good hiking boots. Staircase Rapids loops still closed as the bridge remains washed out. Made the 4.0 miles to the trail junction in about 1.5 hours.
After the junction the trail gets much steeper and rockier. Last 3 miles or so of the trail is very well marked with orange/pink ribbons. Beautiful photo opps at both Madeline Creek and Donahue Creek. I personally think the falls on Donahue Creek rival those at Sol Duc any day. Thankfully, Donahue Creek/Flapjacks will never see the same kind of foot traffic. One small washout on the trail just below the junction to Black and White Lakes but the crossing is easy to see and manage.
Arrived at the lakes at about 1630 hours Tuesday night. Set up camp next to Upper Flapjack Lake. Very cold overcast conditions, I'm guessing probably 35-38 degrees overnight. Mt. Cruiser and Mt. Lincoln continually popping in and out of the clouds. No snow at Flapjack Lakes. Snow visible on lower slopes of Mt. Lincoln and Mt. Cruiser. Deer were out in force throughout the campsites. No ranger to be seen this outing. Did manage to spot one black bear in the avalanche meadow on the far side of Upper Flapjack Lake. Pit toilets are not well marked and were somewhat difficult to locate. Aforementioned couple arrived a couple of hours later and camped well away. We felt like we had the entire upper lake to ourselves. I, great backcountry adventurer that I am..., had a brain fart and forgot to clean my five year old MSR water pump. This made for a very long process with a half functioning pump. The thought of Potable Aqua tablets made me shudder and I pumped all the more furiously. Word to the wise, read the owners manual and you will save yourself the embarassment. My incredible display of backcountry knowledge made my wife laugh hysterically.
Agree with the previous report on this trail, ""trail past Black and White Lakes junction was very rocky and eroded - needs maintenance!"" Thankfully, upper section of the trail is off-limits to stock and rightfully so. Lower section of the trail was a mess! Early morning Wednesday we beat feet back to the Staircase ranger station. Appox 3.5 hours back. Past the NF Skok/Flapjack junction, we saw only 3 groups of 2 and all of them day hikers, 3000' of elevation gain and loss.