Overall, fantastic trip to a lovely pair of lakes with lots of grouse sightings and gorgeous Gladys Divide views.

Day 1 - It was sunny and clear skies when we started hiking. On recreation.gov it looked like there would be a couple other groups at camp but not too crowded, yay! I have heard how popular this trail is in the summer. We got an early start for the best choice of camps and left on a Thursday about 9:30 from the parking lot. Within the first mile we saw two couples on the Staircase Rapids Loop and one solo backpacker higher up on the Flapjack Lakes spur trail. The first four miles to the junction was easy with two good flowing water sources between miles 3 and 4 approaching the junction. Fill up here if you're low on water. The next source is located about half a mile up at the last switchback before you turn and head north for a long traverse across the hillside. There was a nice log to sit and rest on and a path to the water. The stretch headed north had a couple blowdowns that were mentioned and more boardwalk than I expected. No water access to Madeline Creek but the bridge there made for some nice views and cooler temperatures. Once you turn east the trail quality decreases and the blowdowns were more challenging to navigate. Some sections required careful foot placement because there was little to no compacted tread left or you were hiking along a very narrow path through a washout. Next good water source is at Donahue Creek just shy of the junction with Black & White Lakes. There's a nice campsite below the junction.

We took a right at the junction to head towards Flapjack Lakes and what seemed like more than half a mile up even steeper, rockier, and rooty trail conditions. About halfway up from the junction there's a lot of waterfalls to rest and recover beside; some have better access to water than others. We arrived at the lakes after hiking about 5 hours and tackling the five or so blowdowns we encountered. We took a left at the sign announcing the lakes and camped at the first camp on the right along the upper lake. We explored the other camps and found that the next best camp was at the far end of the lower lake and has a view towards the peaks. We ultimately decided we would rather be closer to the toilet. Two other groups arrived later in the afternoon and into the evening. After dinner we walked out on the strip of land in between the upper and lower lake as far as the outlet of the upper lake that feeds the lower lake. We were in PJs and opted not to cross the loose logs that straddled the outlet and would come back the next day. On our way back to camp we saw one mama grouse with a baby. They were camouflaged so good that my hiking partner didn’t see them.

Day 2 - We day tripped up to Gladys Divide and about halfway up to Mount Gladys. The trail to Gladys Divide could use some improvement but the view was worth it. There are three or four blowdowns, some places that there's no tread just loose dirt, and the first quarter mile or so the blueberry bushes are getting close to overgrowing the trail. The obstacles weren't terrible, just more than expected for a mile and a half trail. We saw some cool geologic features in the massive boulders, a few wildflowers lingering, and another grouse roosting in a bush along the trail that was flushed out when we passed. At the divide we spied a boot path to the left and followed it to see if we could get some views looking down on Flapjack Lakes. We hiked as far as a pair or tarns on the right. The views were beautiful. We turned around because we didn't have lunch packed with us and we had only planned to hike to the divide so we felt it was better to come back later for a summit when we were better prepared for a longer trip.

Back at camp we ate lunch as the winds started picking up and the smoke started blowing in. We had originally planned to hike to Black & White Lakes as an afternoon trip but since we spent more time at the divide, we decided to pass on the pair of lakes and take a nap instead. After waking up, we did a short day hike around the lower Flapjack Lake so we could check out the group camp site. On our loop we saw our fourth grouse near the group camp. Avoid the group site if you have more than three 2-person tents. There's certainly not enough space for a large group but there is a bear wire. No toilet nearby the group camp. We continued to follow the trail around the lake which looked like it doesn't get a lot of regular use. There was a couple of blowdowns, nothing too difficult. We walked out to admire the views of the surrounding peasks on the peninsula. No camping is permitted on the peninsula. However, it was clear that previous backpackers had camped here before. Large rocks were partially buried in the middle of what appeared to be several former camp spots, presumably to discourage people from setting up tents in this beautiful setting. I can see why this area would be very appealing to camp. If you're interested in swimming, the peninsula would be good access. At the lower lake outlet there were a jumble of logs to cross and the flow was minimal. The campsite at the far end of the lower lake with good views does have a bear wire but no toilet close by that we saw.

The evening rolled in as the winds continued. The gusts must have been close to 30 mph. We were able to light our stove and filter water in between gusts which came every few minutes. There was so much dirt, dust, and ash flying in the air that we had to cover our eyes, mouths, and our food so it didn't get into them. We retired for the night around 8pm with the winds still gusting. The wind continued through the night and into the morning blowing in lots of smoky air. My hiking partner heard a tree come down near the inlet of the upper lake at night and after that couldn’t fall asleep. What a night!

Day 3 - In the morning we got up around 6:30 with the winds still gusting away. The quantity of dirt, dust, and ash inside our tents, on our sleeping bags, and in our footwear was mind boggling. And this was with our tent flies zipped up completely. We packed up our tents and made breakfast in between the gusts then hit the trail around 8am. Once we were out of the lake basin the wind gusts subsided thankfully. Watch where you put your trekking poles near the sides of the trail near the junction with Black & White Lakes. There's a hornet's nest in the ground. I got stung a couple times on the way down. Other than that, it was an uneventful hike back to the trailhead. Lots of backpackers headed up to Flapjack Lakes for the night in the heat and smoke. We arrived back at the trailhead around 1:30pm to a completely packed parking lot.

3-day backpacking loop: hiked in to Big Log camp on the North Fork Skokomish trail (5.5 mi) on the first day; did a big loop to Black and White Lakes, Flapjack Lakes, Gladys Divide, and Mount Gladys on the second day; and hiked out on the third day, with the final bit along the Staircase Rapids trail.

The gravel portion of the road is in excellent shape at the moment. Watch out for other cars, and pull over if someone wants to pass. Road is paved again when you enter the National Park.

North Fork Skok trail starts above the parking lot and is nice and wide (old road bed) for the first few miles. The main trail to Flapjack Lakes branches off near Spike Camp, but we kept going another mile or so to Big Log camp where I had a spot reserved on recreation.gov for two nights.  The main 2 spots were taken but we found a private mostly-flat spot a few minutes more upstream.

I brought a saw to work on the Black and White Lakes Primitive trail, but found it in better shape than expected.  It gains 3000' in 2 miles so is fairly steep, but is easy to follow and never crazy-steep.  Not in the WTA database for some reason.  Good swimming at B&W Lakes.  From there we continued to Flapjack Lakes and up to Gladys Pass - had to go over/under a couple of logs, nothing too bad.  Lots of good huckleberries on this section, with some alpine blueberries higher up.  Gladys divide is scenic with rugged Cruiser on the right and a vast wilderness beyond.  Spotted a bear way down on the other side. Trail continues to the top of Mount Gladys which has even better views.  This portion is not very well defined in a few spots.

From Flapjack lakes we descended the main trail to avoid the steepness of the primitive trail. Past Madeleine Creek I dropped 400' cross-country through the forest back to the Skok to shave a few miles off the return to Big Log and get dinner started; some veggie belays required but nothing too heinous.

The walk out on the third day was uneventful; encountered many people after crossing the big bridge over the river but found a nice private lunch spot along the river.

hike is a long, hard slog.  both lakes were fogged in when we arrived and 10 minutes later the fog lifted enough to see the far side.  very few bugs. no wildflowers 

Summary: I highly recommend this as a two-night destination with a day trip to Gladys Divide, or as part of a longer loop in the area. Just be aware that while the first 3.7 miles along the river is easy, the four miles from the river to the lakes is a tough 25% average grade uphill. I would not recommend as a day hike unless you are in great shape. Campsites are attractive, and the lakes are beautiful and cool. There were mosquitoes, but treated clothing and a bit of picardin spray on exposed skin was sufficient to keep them off. Horseflies were an annoyance when in the water, but stay immersed and you are fine. Enjoy!

Our cool spring and early summer finally gave way to a heat wave, exactly on the week I had set months in advance for this trip! Flapjack lakes are a nice place to camp and cool off in the water, but backpacking up there when it is 80 plus degrees in the shade is brutal. From the Staircase Ranger Station, the first 3.7 miles following the North Fork Skokomish river is shaded, and the trail is a wide, gentle uphill grade.  Even so, we were pretty hot by the time we reached the turn-off for Flapjack Lakes. The trail is a ways from and above the river at this point, but you cross a small creek just before the turn-off. Make sure to fill your water reserves at this creek, because the next easily accessible water is three steep uphill miles away at Donahue Creek!  From the turn-off the trail climbs steadily at an average 25% grade for the next 1.6 miles to Madeline Creek. Fortunately the trail is almost always shaded, but with the 80+ degree heat, I was hot and already getting tired. It really would have been nice to stick my head in the creek. The Madeline Creek crossing is a well built bridge across a ravine, however, so while the cascades below us beckoned with cool beauty, there was no reasonable access to the the water! Nothing for it but to steady on, and steady up at an average 24% grade for another 1.3 miles until it was possible to make a very short scramble down to Donahue Creek to cool off and refill our water supplies. If you aren't as desperate as I was to cool off there, you can continue up another 0.3 miles to the Smith Lake turn-off, which provides trail access to Donahue Creek. There is a trailside campsite there, as well, which was occupied by a group that said they had been up to Flapjack Lakes but retreated due to bugs. My worries at that point were less about bugs than simply making it to the lakes, now only 0.5 miles away but almost another 500' of elevation gain (26% average grade). My heart rate was pegging out at my max. Fortunately I was able to offload some of my pack weight to my adult daughter, who was backpacking for the first time but is an avid and strong hiker. This last part of the hike is very pretty, very steep in places, and as my daughter said, one of the longest half-miles ever. In cooler weather, I think I would have very much enjoyed the long hike up, but hot as its was it was a great relief to reach the lakes. Having reached the lakes, however, you still need to find a campsite. If you are a group, take a right and proceed two thirds of the way around (0.5 miles) the lower lake to the large and attractive designated group site, just before the trail ends at the stream that flows between the two lakes. There are a couple of smaller sites on that lower lake before the group site.  Most of the sites are along the west side of the upper (western) lake; turn left upon reaching the lakes and then stay along the path following the shore of the upper lake. The best campsite is the very last one, just before you hit a sign that says "no camping past this point."  This campsite has a full view of the lake and is next to the stream that feeds the lakes. But if that camp is already taken, there are several other nice ones to choose from, including one set of closely spaced sites that would be good for a group. I would highly recommend a two night stay at Flapjack Lakes, with a day hike up to Gladys Divide the second day. The morning hike up to Gladys Divide was very beautiful, with lots of wildflowers blooming, and a few snowbanks still remaining near the top of the divide, and great views along the way and at the top. We got back mid-day and enjoyed the hot afternoon by playing in the cool water of the lake and lazing around camp. While you certainly could do Gladys Divide in the morning and hike out that afternoon, you would miss out on the relaxation the lakes offer.  When you do hike out, it is worthwhile to take the staircase rapids loop trail cut-off 1 mile before getting back to the ranger station, which hugs the south side of the river. That trail is a bit more up and down, but gives great views of the river and provides access to the river for a cooling dip before getting back in your car.  

Family of four spent the night at Flajack, hiked to Gladys divide the next morning, and then came back down to Staircase. 

The first 4 miles is a slow incline and super easy. It gets steep fast after the Flajack turnoff. Was pretty slow going for us. Took about 4 hours and 45 minutes to get up there total from Staircase. As others have mentioned there are 4 or 5 notable blow downs on the trail. All are passable, and only one is a real PITA. 

Foubd a helpful ranger and a nice site for our two tents on the left of the two lakes. Definitely other campers but didn’t feel crowded and not noisy at all. Bugs got bad almost immediately, and didn’t let up even after sun was down. We basically wore head nets the whole time. 

Hiked up to Gladys divide in the morning. Left around 8:30 and got back around 11:15, didn’t see anyone on the trail the entire time. 

The trail up to the divide is in great shape. One small patch of snow, but felt sturdy. 

We tried to make our way up to Gladys peak, but finding the trail was pretty hard. We got up to about 5400 mostly traversing hard packed snow fields and picking up the trail here and there. Turned back after about 20 minutes, mostly because one of our group didn’t join and it was lame to leave her waiting given how buggy it was up there (yup, even at 5000 feet with a brisk breeze the mosquitoes were still biting up a storm). Views from the divide, especially the in your face vista of the Sawtooths are awesome. I expect the 360 view from the top of Glays is even more striking.

Hike down from Gladys goes fast. After quick lunch we did the Flapjack to Staircase section in about 3:30. We started seeing folks about two miles in. By the time got to the main trail there were tons of folks heading to Flapjack, Big Log, etc. definitely get your permit if heading out there.