For a gear / food / fitness test before a week in the Enchantments this September, we wanted to put in some miles and spend at least three nights out. This relatively long hike fit all our requirements, and exceeded all our expectations.
We started from Smithbrook Creek trailhead Friday morning -- one of only three cars (all Subarus, surprise!) in the parking lot -- and made the mostly-forested hike to Lake Janus in fairly short order (for us). We had a great visit with a pair of "melancholy 26-year-old men" (the incarnate answer to the question, "Who does this work, anyway?") who were busily cutting blowdowns on the PCT. The PCT is in great shape here, all the way from Union Gap to the cutoff to Pear Lake above Wenatchee Pass. We stopped for lunch at the overlook above Glasses Lake. Take note: There is no reliable water source between Lake Janus and Wenatchee Pass.
After providing great views of Glacier Peak, the trail winds its way around the west side of Grizzly Peak, with views of Lake Margaret and Grizzly Lake, before breaking out into stunning displays of lupine, bistort, and valerian -- the entire rounded summit of Grizzly is carpeted in wildflowers and blueberry (very few berries yet). Turning around, the clear, clear day offered views of Daniel, Hinman, Rainier, Stuart (and all his buddies!), Mt. Cashmere, and the unending rolling vastness of the Cascades. Coming up just over Grizzly's summit, there are straight-ahead views of the imposing Glacier.
One thing we hadn't thought about when picking this stretch of trail is the endless up-and-down. From Grizzly at about 5,600 feet, you lose around 1,400 in less than two miles down to Wenatchee Pass -- most of which you promptly gain again up to the cutoff to Pear Lake. Lots of elevation change on this hike.
The gorgeous Pear Lake has many small fish and limited campsites (we found three fairly large ones), but going in on a Friday helped ensure a spot. Best of all -- no bugs to speak of! When we were at Caroline a few weeks ago we went through an entire bottle of bug spray. Here, we used less than an ounce.
Waking up to a cool, clear morning on the shore of an alpine lake cleanses the soul, empties the mind -- and prepares you for a day of wandering! Thanks to my mom, and in memory of my grandfather, we felt it was our duty to get to Fortune Ponds to determine whether they were, in fact, ponds, or her "trip report" from 36 years ago ("don't camp there; they're all silted in") was still valid. I'm happy to report things change, and both upper and lower Fortune Pond exist today, though there is no trail to the upper pond.
We both experienced a remarkable sense of historical completeness here, knowing we represent the fourth generation of backpackers in my family to visit Fortune Ponds. We'll be back in coming years, hopefully with the fifth generation.
After an afternoon of contemplative wandering, it was back over Frozen Fingers Pass to Pear Lake. Interestingly, it seems campfires are OK at Pear, and we VERY carefully indulged on our second night. A note for those seeking alpine solitude -- Pear Lake is busy on Saturday nights (there is a much shorter way to get there -- look up the lake on the WTA hike finder for the "normal" route).
Sunday morning we briefly debated spending a third night at Pear in preference to anywhere else on earth (it's that beautiful), but decided to head back toward Lake Valhalla instead. After two nights in paradise, we'd forgotten how much *up* there is from Wenatchee Pass to Grizzly, but that only made our wildflower-strewn lunch spot the more appealing.
It's interesting what you see on a longish out-and-back hike that is different each way. On the way in we missed, for example, views of Peach Lake (Pear's difficult-to-reach sister) and a large patch of Elephant's Head between Pear and Wenatchee Pass. When you have a new appreciation for the terrain, gained from the hike out, the hike back is just as rewarding.
It was a cloudy Sunday, and I learned a valuable lesson of photography -- if the light is right, don't wait. None of the peaks we saw on the way in were as clearly visible on the way out, and Rainier was missing entirely. We appreciated the slightly cooler weather, though, as we slammed out the 13 miles to Valhalla. Initially, we were not as impressed with Valhalla as we were with Pear, though in retrospect it's because we're misanthropes and simply wanted to be alone. Valhalla on a Monday morning is as lovely as any other alpine lake, as there is an ineffable beauty in solitude itself. Valhalla is an excellent destination for families with small children, especially from Smithbrook (it's more than twice as far if you take the PCT from Stevens Pass), and I expect we'll be back to there, as well.
With the long part of our hike finished on Sunday, we had a very short hike back to the car Monday morning, and despite a leisurely morning, made it home in time to unpack and get out for the requisite post-hike burger and beer.
No PCT-focused trip can be complete without mentioning the wonderful chance meetings along the way, especially in the Stevens-to-Canada portion this time of year, when section hikers, through-hikers, and short-distance rabble like us are all sharing the trail. Other than the much-appreciated and highly entertaining trail crew, we met:
- A young through-hiking couple still going strong at a 30-mile-per-day pace who overtook us at Grizzly and will be in Canada in under a week
- A friendly, middle-aged, vaguely Iberian man coming up over Frozen Fingers Pass who assured us Fortune Ponds were no map-maker's joke
- A UW math professor and his friend's enthusiastic lab mix, who were bush-whacking down from Fortune Mountain and showed us the way to Upper Fortune Pond
- Bill and Helen Thayer of AdventureClassroom.org, an extraordinary couple (she, a 74-years-young New Zealander who keenly admired my kilt; he, a clear-eyed and spry 85!) who hike to Valhalla twice a week, and have also walked to the magnetic North Pole and across both the Gobi and Sahara deserts, among other exploits
- A pair of llama-packers day-hiking from Valhalla to Janus, and their trio of recently-shorn llamas (including Moss, who is in training and seemed certain everything might eat him)
- Best of all, we unexpectedly ran into our friends Marybeth and Jason (two of our September Enchantments group), leading a 10-day, 100-mile Sierra Club PCT trek from Stevens Pass to Stehekin. We thought they might be out there somewhere, since we knew they were headed for Stehekin, but they had no idea we were out wandering the same trails -- only that Marybeth couldn't borrow our ursacks for the weekend.
All told, we hiked about 32 miles of well-maintained trails, covered over 15,000 vertical feet, and opened our eyes and minds further to the myriad possibilities that await, simply by going out for a walk in the woods.