"We should go tomorrow," my hiking buddy Marin suggested, the day before our hike. It was a trip we had enjoyed the year before and had been intending to repeat. But I had noted recent Valhalla trip reports referring to hordes of mosquitoes and flies. "Perhaps this is not the best time," I suggested. But Marin was reassuring, "It won't be a problem, tomorrow will be a good day." As so often, her intuition was right on.
Our early morning drive took us four miles beyond Stevens Pass, left on Smithbrook Road, and three bumpy miles to the trailhead. There were a few mozzies, but not a horde, and definitely fewer than last year. We applied some deet, and they were not a major problem. It helped that there was a breeze, and the air seemed cool.
We switchbacked a mile up to Union Gap to connect with the PCT. A woodpecker tapped out a loud greeting as we headed south toward Lake Valhalla, and along the way several grouse appeared. We enjoyed the patches of perfumey lupine in the bright sun. Trail conditions were excellent: a bit moist but without significant mud, and even an occasional patch of hard snow for us to crunch our boots on.
We soon topped the pass and headed down, appreciating the expanding views of Lake Valhalla below. A few intermittent wisps of cloud flowed around the peak of Lichtenberg Mountain, exposing it periodically. It was 9:30 AM, quiet at the lake, and we seemed to have it all to ourselves. We spent some time on the lunch rock and on the sandy beach, enjoying the dramatic views across the lake, and watching the ripples on the water. We noted a few wildflowers: marsh marigold and shooting star, valerian, purple and white heather, columbine, and the first of the cinquefoils. Again, there were a few mozzies, but far fewer than we recalled last year. And flies were not a problem at all.
Soon it was time to continue back toward Lake Janus. Other hikers were beginning to arrive at Valhalla, and as we backtracked to Union Gap we encountered additional hikers along the way. We headed north on the PCT, at first downhill, then across a somewhat overgrown boulder field, then uphill, followed by a pretty stream crossing. Eventually there were hints of Lake Janus through the trees.
Janus and Valhalla are very different. While Valhalla is in a stony, dramatic setting, Janus is larger and surrounded with rounded forested mountains. The shoreline is a very bright green and the overall visual effect is quite relaxing.
We spent some time at Janus. There were a few other folks around, fishers and campers, but the lakeshore did not feel crowded.
Our trek back to Union Gap seemed much warmer, and it is more uphill than down. The final drop down to the Smithbrook trailhead went quickly. The warm parking lot has no shade, so we changed out of our hiking boots and exited quickly.
We stopped in Gold Bar for an early dinner at La Hacienda. The restaurant has moved a block east since last year, but remains a good place for a Mexican themed meal.