We're up early while it's still dark to begin our drive over Stevens Pass, and four miles beyond, then west on Smithbrook Road (FR 6700) for three more somewhat bumpy miles to the trailhead. (My old Honda copes, so the road can't be too bad.) We recalled there are no facilities here, so stopped briefly at the pass on our way.
Boots on! And deet - mozzies are active here! Then we start up the switchbacks of the Smithbrook Trail, which soon levels out, traverses below large boulders and, at Union Gap, ends in a T-junction with the PCT.
My hiking buddy Marin and I turn left, heading south on the PCT toward Lake Valhalla, now only a couple of miles away. The trail is good, slightly moist in spots but not muddy, and bordered with asters and valerian. We note a couple of snow patches several feet off the trail, and enjoy a brief sighting of a grouse.
We soon reach the gap above Lake Valhalla and begin our descent. There is no breeze, so the lake surface is very still, reflecting the surroundings. At the lake, we seek out the "lunch rock," and have the lake all to ourselves. Nearby, cinquefoils and shooting stars are blooming, although less profusely than last year.
Marin observes a frog in the water near the lake shore, and actually manages to rub it beneath the chin. Likely both she and the frog hope it will transform into a prince, but it does not happen before it swims away.
We enjoy the views of Lichtenberg Mountain across the lake. This could be an idyllic spot, but mozzies and small flies are very active here, even more than at the trailhead, so after an early lunch break we resolve to continue on to Lake Janus, which we have never seen.
Janus lies along the PCT, but in the opposite direction, so first we backtrack to the junction with the Smithbrook Trail, then navigate through a blowdown area and continue north on the PCT.
The way is initially downhill - it will be uphill on our return - and it's a bit stonier than in the Valhalla direction. Some nice columbine blooming along the way. A few plops on the trail indicate the recent passage of horse packers, although we do not encounter them.
After a little uphill and a small stream crossing, we reach Lake Janus. It's larger than Lake Valhalla, and in a less dramatic setting, but the surrounding are very green and the view is very relaxing. Again, amazingly, we seem to have a lake all to ourselves.
The bugs are much less active here than at Valhalla, so we enjoy our leisurely second lunch break, and a variety of wildflowers, before heading out.
While we had both lakes to ourselves, we did encounter a number of other hikers along the PCT, including several through-hikers. (they had skipped a section in the high Sierras due to snow conditions, but planned to backtrack to do the Sierra section after they reached Canada.)
We enjoyed our two-lake hike. The two lakes are different enough to provide interesting variety, and can be reached from the same trailhead with minimal backtracking. Our total distance for the day was about 12 miles, and it's a trip we would repeat in the future.