We hiked the Loowit trail in 3 days from August 23-25. We started at Climbers Bivouac and went counter-clockwise.

Night 1, instead of camping by the Toutle River, we camped near the intersection of the sheep canyon and toutle trails. It added a bit of distance to our day 2, but the campsite is wonderful - shaded by tall trees, and cooled by creeks on both sides, with a ton of blueberries.

Night 2 we camped by pumice butte.

The weather was hot (probably low 80s) with only occasional clouds, and we had a bit of a struggle to stay hydrated (and regretted not bringing rehydration salts). The hike was gorgeous, and I would do it again, but probably only in cooler weather. I would also lean towards doing it in the other direction - as is, our last day finished with a steep climb to get back up to the ptarmigan trail when we were already quite tired and ready to be done.

We encountered water at:

• Sheep canyon
• Toutle River
• Loowit creek (very silty)
• A creek about halfway between the loowit falls trail and the intersection with the windy trail (marked as a spring on the green trails map)
• A creek on the plains of abraham (we passed by late in the day, and it was very hot - your experience might vary under different snowmelt conditions)
• A trickle on the north side pumice butte, right as it goes over the cliff into the ape canyon (there was water in the evening, and it was still flowing when we left in the morning)
• Swift creek/chocolate falls (silty)

We also saw some puddles in the bed of shoestring creek, but nothing flowing (we passed by early in the day).

The trail was particularly precarious descending from windy pass to the plains of abraham, and descending down to shoestring creek - in both cases, a narrow trail descending down a steep slope made of loose material that could easily slide out from under you. At shoestring creek, the trail had actually slid out, but we managed to pick our way around the slide and down into the creekbed without mishap.

Capitalized on the cloudy weekend by hiking the typically sun-exposed Loowit. Can't recommend it enough! All the best views are right in front of you, so you don't lose much from the clouds.

Started at Blue Lake, went north on the Toutle Trail to meet up with the Loowit near the south fork of the Toutle River. Very nice forested trail with lots of ripe Thimbleberries. Descending to the Toutle on the south side is no problem; I frankly don't understand why they put in ropes, and there are many other places on the Loowit with more challenging footing. Climbing out on the north side is definitely steeper, with some small loose boulders, though the rope is still optional. Mainly, just keep an eye on people below you--I sent a rock into my friend's shin without realizing it.

The north section of the trail is arguably the most beautiful part, especially in partially cloudy conditions. Abundant ripe blueberries distracted us frequently. Crossing Loowit Creek in the afternoon was a bit of a trick--we walked south a ways from where the trail meets the creek and found a place where we could leap across it. You could also just ford it, but the water was moving pretty quickly so exercise caution if you do so. Crossing earlier in the day when the snowmelt is lower should be no problem.

After circumnavigating a large mountain goat herd, we camped on the Plains of Abraham under Big Pumice Butte, 15.5mi in. If we'd started earlier, we could've camped at the beautiful spots near the Ape Canyon Trail turnoff.

We started day two making great time, but near the southeast corner of the trail, the terrain gets more challenging (lots of nontechnical boulder-hopping) and we slowed a bit. We turned off the Loowit at Butte Camp Trail, which is a speedy, gentle descent and return to the Blue Lake Trailhead. Missed ~5mi of the Loowit, but no regrets!

We did 2 nights CW starting at snow park. First day we started late at noon. The wildflowers were the best on this day and we saw so many lupines, bear grass, and heather. We rolled into south fork Toutle river at sunset. There was a marathon happening the next day so cones were marking trail. It made it very easy to navigate through the boulder fields. Water at the camp site was silt free which was great.

Day 2 we started at 8:30 right when the first runners came through and they did not stop passing us until 4pm. It was very frustrating as they would push past us on technical and difficult terrain that only one person should pass at a time. While on a rope section several came up right through and even sent rocks down as they sped past. The blast zone was unforgiving and sunny yet gorgeous. I was expecting less water fill ups during the day and was pleasantly surprised by the spring right before windy ridge. We camped at the plains of Abraham and we had great views of Adam’s and Hood. This campsite is beautiful don’t miss out on the starts or the sunrise over the valley. Absolutely stunning. Water was down to a trickle in the morning so do fill up in the evening with the snow melt.

Day 3 we set out at 8:30 and went up and down the last several ravines before heading through the many huckleberry patches. They are just getting super ripe and we ate them by the handful. We went down June lake to check it out then took pine Martin trail back through to the snow park lot. We were on the road by 3pm.

Very mentally and physically challenging trail but so glad I made it happen it was beautiful at every turn and had lots of diverse terrain. Please stay protected from the sun as the blast zone is hot and unforgiving. 2/4 of us got sunburnt and I am very glad I wore long sleeves and a hat the entire time.

I did the Loowit Trail in 3 nights, 4 days, clockwise beginning from Climber’s Bivouac.

Day 1: Climber’s to Toutle South Fork camp.

Day 2: Cross the blast zone, camped at the single campsite near a nice creek right at the foot of Windy Pass

Day 3: Plains of Abraham and those sketchy gullies to June Lake.

Day 4: June Lake back out to Climbers Bivouac.

Absolutely stunning. Some moments really made me question my life choices but overall highly recommended.

I felt the most beaten up the first night. The first big boulder field, a couple of rough going gullies, one of which required ropes, and a steep descent to the Toutle River camp left me quite ready to filter a bit of water from the Toutle River and then call it a day.

Crossing the blast zone was not as bad as anticipated, with the exception of Windy Pass which had me composing farewell messages to loved ones in my head.

I camped in the lone campsite, not on any map that I've seen, next to a gushing creek at the foot of Windy Pass, maybe a mile and a bit from Pumice Butte.

The hike from Plains of Abraham to June Lake was lovely except for the descent/ascent into/out of the Muddy River gully.

June Lake back to Climber’s Bivouac was not too bad, except for that long ascent after the big boulder field seemed to go on forEVER.

Water:

I did not see any water between Climber’s Bivouac and Toutle River South Fork.

As of Sunday, July 27 there were three water sources inside the blast zone, of which two were usable. Both were on the side close to Windy Pass. Going clockwise, pass the big silty river and the trail branch to Loowit Falls. After that the two good creeks are fairly close together, robustly flowing and looked clear. I refilled at the one with all the bushes.

Immediately at the foot of Windy Pass as you begin the Plains of Abraham there is a great little creek (next to that sweet campsite). Pumice Butte has a decent creek, and a couple of the gullies en route to June Lake are also usable.

June Lake is a great water source.

I counted 2 more usable creeks between June Lake and the Ptmarigan/Monitor Ridege Junction.

Wildlife: A few mountain goats up on the East Cone and a couple of coyotes on the Plains of Abraham. All too far away to photograph well. Hundreds of chonky chipmunks living their best lives.

Other:

There’s a great campsite on a ledge near the creek at the winter route that’s not shown on any map that I've seen.

While by the map, this hike crosses some legitimately remote backcountry, the trail seemed quite busy. On Saturday and Sunday in particular it seemed that it was not possible to stop for more than a few minutes to take a picture or enjoy a moment of Zen without a trail runner or two clattering up behind. I met day hikers every day and on every section of the trail; and of the three nights that I camped, I only camped alone on one of those. At Toutle River and June Lake there were campers straggling in until well after dark. 

The good news is that if you do have a mishap the chances of someone coming along who might help or call for help are good. But if you're looking to get remote and spend time truly alone, this is probably the wrong time of year to look for that the Loowit Trail.

Apart from all that, every day, every part of the trail ran the gamut from austere windswept plains, dramatic other-planet-like landscapes, medows overflowing with wildflowers and humming with bumblebees, and lovely fragrant forests where you wade through ferns or bushes with ripe huckleberries. The Loowit Trail was absolutely gorgeous.

It is not easy. I surely did my share of cussing (especially at that ascent from the Winter Route Junction to the Ptarmigan Junction) but very, very worth it!

Jul 24

Began hike clockwise at 3:30pm Th. Jul 24 from Climbers Bivouac. 25 lb pack 3L water + filter. Recommend at least 3L daily water; trail usage 1.75 L  + 2 cups to cook with per person. Recommend hiking poles or walking stick (saved me from slipping off a sketchy gully.)

Ascended via Ptmarmigan; crossed boulder field. Stunning! Hiked thru alpine forest to the camp right at the end of the trail before the descent to Toutle River. Spotted 3X columbian white tailed deer before ascent to camp. Campsite at top is nice - please respect the sites! Previous campers left dirty TP all over the bathroom area unburied. Constant rockfalls in the gorge woke me up at night. Felt a little spooky.

Day 2  Began hike 6:30am Jul 25 from the top of gorge camp. Descent 1.2 K feet thru meadows - delicious blueberries abundant. Toutle river camp 1x camper, many open sites. Recommend pushing thru the downhill to camp by the river rather than stopping atop the gorge at that site. Rope descent into river, filtered & cooked with river water, crossable with rockhopping, rope ascent out of river. 1.5K foot ascent to plateau and into blastzone. Very dry up there. Wild strawberries abound, taste like Dicks strawberry milkshake. Crossed blastzone - some trail runners left a whole bag of trash behind them. Dont be that guy! Respect the wilderness! Amazing views of the breach & of spirit lake and distant mountains. You can see trail extend for miles. Gully crossing aplenty. 1 glacier stream was clear - fed by waterfalls. ate lunch ar about 1pm there. 1 delicious spring @ Willow Springs - another good place to rest & refill water, very cool vs open blast zone. Next is uphill & more volcanic rocks. You will reach Windy Pass. Windy Pass is NOT safe - scree & super narrow path. One of two places I felt in danger - scree slipped under at 1 point & my stick saved my life. Do NOT rush Windy Pass. Descent via plains of abraham to pumice camp & the stream there was pleasant. Slept 7pm

Day 3 Awoke at 5:03am to howling of wolves below in the valley. NOT coyotes! Very lucky to hear this! Cooked, filtered, 1.75 mi to ape canyon trail. Many gullies on the way out of the plains towards June Lake. One notable rocky descent is sketchy - do not rush. Passed successfully, there is one stream with clear water in this segment also. Saw 11 mtn goats above in the hills. Passed June Lake trail, it gets woodsy and nice. Huckleberries & salmonberries abound. Very breathtaking waterfall as well. another 1kish uphill then you are home free back down ptarmigan and out. Returned to car at 1:30 pm.

If no poles recommend hiking boots with ankle support for rock/scree areas, critical IMO. Wide brim hat recommended if sun averse. Amazing loop and breathtaking views (and breathtaking heights if you are like me and acrophobic.) Treat the land well - seems people are NOT respecting the trail! Picked up several articles of trash in addition to the above egregious offenses. 

Total elevation is over 8k from Climbers Biv, total distance with Ptarmigan trail incl. appears to be roughly 36 miles. 10/10 would hike again