Yetiman rolled into my driveway at 5:15 am, hopped in my car with me and my dog Daisy, and we hit the road for Edmonds and the first ferry out at 5:50. After breakfast and a grocery stop in Kingston, we made the trail head on the Hamma Hamma river in Olympic National Forest at 8:30, and headed up the trail at 9 am.
Two parties were ahead of us, and we would meet up with three more later, a testament to the nice weather. The switchbacks for the first two miles up to the lake are annoyingly flattened, sometimes to a ridiculous extent. A crossing of Lena creek on a bridge over a dry channel is interesting, as the river can be heard cascading in the open a short way down the valley. But where it is crossed, it is completely underground, silent and invisible. The whole gully of the non-river is a wonderland of giant trees, humongous moss-covered boulders, and prehistoric-looking ferns.
I've been there twice before, but it's still a surprise when I notice we are now above the lake level, but back from the shore in the woods. About a third of the way along the lake's western shore we came to the nice open cliff area overlooking the lake, and we took a long break, from 11-ish to 12:30. The sun was shining down warmly, so we basked like lizards on the rocks. From here, we explored our way north, looking at every campsite and beach, photographing the scenic north end of the lake with its emerald waters and submerged driftwood. The giant log bridge over Lena creek was icy, but the strong handrail made crossing safe. The sun was so strong, and the north end of the lake so warm, that we took another hour-plus break. Daisy jumped in the lake, pack and all, when I wasn't watching, so I let her swim a bit after a stick, throwing it parallel to the shore to facilitate a rescue if needed. The water was bitterly cold, so I dried her off with a bandanna and played with her on land in the sun for a while, and she was fine. The sun was even hot enough to dry her pack.
By now it was almost two pm, so we headed up into the Valley of the Silent Men, following the underground course of East Fork Lena creek. The VOSM is awesome. Moss, moss, and more moss. The steep valley sides make it seem like the other side has been tilted up vertically as if on display for us. Another bridge over a dry channel is reached, with the stream underground again. It was hard to make time on this trail, as there are cool things to look at about every five feet. Giant boulders that have crashed down onto giant trees, the unearthly stillness of a steep-sided valley carpeted on every surface by sound-deadening green shag carpet, a peek at a peak up an avalanche chute, a detour down onto the river bed to bypass trail damage, all caused us to stop, marvel, or photograph. At 3:45 we reached a nice, slightly off-trail gravel beach along the now-surfaced creek. It was very cold, but we had lots of warm clothes, so we took a long rest, and consumed some banana rum, and fed pistachios to the dog. The GPS said we were at 2,400 ft and four miles from the car, by trail, not straight-line. That seems right.
At about 4:30 we headed back, with light very poor in the dark forest, and we turned on our lights before we reached the lake at 5:15. We took a short break, then made it to the view cliffs by six. The stars were bright, the lake smooth, the snowy surrounding peaks glowing white, so we stayed until we were cold, drinking some more rum, just enjoying the last of the day. The hike back from there, slightly over two miles, took just an hour and fifteen minutes, even though we stopped frequently to look at the forest with our flashlights, or just stand in the dark and listen for approaching cougars. lol.
Back at the car at 8 pm, we had planned to build a fire at a nearby campsite on the river and hang out for the evening, but our late arrival and the need to get on the last ferry at 11:10 made that impractical, so we just had dinner sitting in the car, listening to, you guessed it, Pink Floyd, among other things, like Kenny Wayne Sheppard's Ledbetter Heights. I bring Cd's that I've burned from my collection, so if they are ever stolen, I can just burn another copy. It's perfectly legal to copy your own Cd's for your own use. When we left, the road was solid frost, but not that slick. It took us an hour and a half to get back to Kingston, and we made the ferry by five whole minutes. It wasn't even close. Yetiman should have a little faith!
Things I forgot to mention: At the north end of the lake on the way in, Daisy barked at Yetiman over a stick dispute (Yetiman refused to throw it), and the bark echoed and reverberated most amusingly. I used the old foghorn voice to give a real test, and the echoes lasted at least five seconds, maybe longer. We also encountered, at the lake (the halfway point of our hike), a four-year-old child, a three-legged dog, a man who used a cane not just for hiking, and other reminders that though we had done a real hike, it wasn't exactly the Lewis and Clark expedition. Total elevation gain/loss was about 2,000 vf, eight miles hiked round trip, eleven hours on the trail, first ferry over and last ferry back, a very satisfying day.