Looking to escape the clouds and rain, Patches and I drove with the Labs(Chandler and Sophie) over the mountains to hike Cathedral Rock/Peggy's Pond, which "Best Hikes with Dogs" called "doggy paradise." They weren't kidding! For our four-legged companions: meadows to roll in, lakes and tarns to splash in, snowbanks to slide down, and abundant streams to keep them hydrated. For us humans: a gradual climb, easy stream crossings, beautiful wildflowers, and gorgeous alpine scenery, replete with rocky cirques, lush green valleys, and alpine lakes of the purest aquamarine blue.
Only two other cars were in the parking lot when we arrived, and there were still only 3 cars there when we left. As the Hyas Lake trail #1376 is under construction and the Daniel Creek crossing was reportedly too high to safely ford right now, we elected to skip the 14-mile Cathedral Rock-Deception Pass loop and just hike to Cathedral Rock and then on to Peggy's Pond.
Cathedral Rock trailhead #1345 starts at the bridge and climbs nearly 2300 ft to Cathedral Pass, 4.5 miles up. We saw no one on the trail until we hit Squaw Lake (2.5 miles in, at 4841 ft), where two dads who had taken their young daughters on their first overnight backpacking trip ("hot dogs and pasta for dinner") were packing up camp. The first 2 miles are a modest climb, gaining just 1000 ft. Lupine, bunchberry, and foam flowers (and mosquitoes) are in abundance early on, and you'll easily ford about half a dozen small streams. After the first 0.5 mile or so, the mosquitoes mysteriously disappeared, so the day was blessedly free of the noisy little pests.
Beyond Squaw Lake, the trail follows the ridge north, where you'll catch frequent glimpses of the Cle Elum River valley and the craggy Wenatchee Mountains on the opposite valley wall. Snow is first encountered on the trail around 5000 ft, in easily traversed patches. Around 5500 ft, you'll hit consistent snow, which doesn't require ice axes or even gaiters, but I'd recommend waterproof hiking books and not sneakers or low hiking shoes. I thought the trail was very easy to spot even through the snow.
At 4.5 miles, you'll reach Cathedral Pass (5500 ft), directly beneath the impressive spire of Cathedral Rock. Here the trail ends at a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. Go left on the PCT towards Deep Lake (the trail to the right heads to Deception Pass). In about 0.3 miles, you'll see a trail to the right, #1375, which veers off to Peggy's Pond. If you're not afraid of heights or of exposure, definitely hike to Peggy's Pond. However, the trail is more aptly termed a path, in some places no bigger then a foot across. The trail is rough and rocky and for the first half of the 0.75 miles to the pond, there are quite a few exposed sections of slippery shale where the slope falls away steeply. But the expansive view overlooking the valley floor and gorgeous teal-blue Deep Lake, and the cascading roar of a dozen waterfalls braiding together as they tumble down the mountainside, make up for the unsteady footing. And here, above 5500 ft, is where the wildflowers are peaking! Buttery arnica, fiery orange paintbrush, yellow glacier lilies, lavender and purple phlox (which fill the air with their clean and heady fragrance), and deep purple penstemon cover the rock walls with brilliant color. Thankfully, the most exposed portion of the path to Peggy's Pond is mostly free of snow. The last part is snowbound but the trail is fairly easy to pick out through breaks in the snow, esp. as red algae tends to color the footprints in the snow. You'll reach a mostly thawed out pond-let on the left side, but to find Peggy's Pond, I had to cross the unmarked snow a short ways to where I heard a stream bubbling down from an outlet above. From the outlet where the water cascades down a small boulder, climb up over the snow and you'll soon see Peggy's Pond. It's still about 95% frozen but you can appreciate how, in the summer, Cathedral Rock is mirrored in this exceedingly beautiful tarn nestled in a rocky cirque at the base of the Rock. [Patches took the photos today, not me, so I hope to upload those here soon.]
All in all, a beautiful hike with gorgeous views and brilliant wildflowers, tailor-made for our four-footed companions, and completely passable on foot even this early in the season. I've seen this trailhead parking lot full on weekends and later on in the summer, so you'd better hit it now if you want solitude and an early season hike!
Round Trip: 11 miles
Time In: 3:00
Time Out: 2:40
Elevation: 3350-5600 ft (2250 ft gain)
Map: Green Trails No. 176, Stevens Pass
Required: Northwest Forest Service Pass
Recommended: waterproof hiking boots (until the snow melts), DEET (although we really only needed it at the trailhead), hiking poles
Directions: I-90 to exit 80 (Roslyn/Salmon la Sac). Head north on S.R. 908 about 15 miles, passing through Roslyn and past Cle Elum Lake. At Salmon la Sac Campground, go right onto dusty gravelly road No. 4330 and drive 12.5 miles to a wide parking area just before Tucquala Meadows Campground. (En route, you'll have to drive through a creek which appears to be running about 12-18" deep right now.) Bathroom available at the parking area. The Hyas Lake-Deception Pass trailhead starts at a bridge over the Cle Elum River.