What a great trip! Deep forest, open rock, blue lakes, snow, scrambling - a great mountain!
We started up the trail at 8am, moving at a fast pace on the level and easy trail knowing the hard stuff was still to come. After a brief break at the PCT junction, and some photos of Cathedral Rock, we arrived at Peggy's Pond in just shy of three hours. We climbed up onto a rocky ledge for lunch before heading to the summit.
From here we took one of the many climbers paths onto the SE ridge. Clouds were starting to spill over and obscure the east summit and I was getting a bit disheartened. We pushed on anyway, hoping to at least tag the east summit if the weather turned. Partway up we lost the route and had to get up on the ridge by scrambling over some nasty, tiring scree. On top we found the path again. Another hiker joined us for a bit before zooming off on his own.
We could now see the ridge scramble and both decided we'd rather try the snow. Previous groups had laid out some decent steps across the uppermost snowfield to just below the east peak saddle. Out came the ice axes and off we went. The snow was reasonably soft. We tread carefully, wishing we'd brought our crampons for some extra comfort. After the first stretch we hopped melted out rock islands and the used the snow to go straight up to the saddle.
Off in the distance we could see our goal - it looked so far away! A brief wrong turn here and we started up towards the east summit. We quickly realized our mistake when we saw a big party returning below us. Yumi took a direct descent down the scree, while I backtracked to the saddle and followed the boot path. Now we started across the annoying traverse to the base of the other summits. This would be much more pleasant on snow. Today it was small scree with sections of very compact sand and dirt. Someone had chopped out footholds thankfully. Partway across I could hear large rockfalls. As it turned out the solo climber had gone up the east summit, realized his mistake, and downclimbed the far side, setting off several rockslides.
Now we had one more scree slope to ascent. It was steep, and I was again wishing for snow, but not the summit was in sight. It again seemed so far away, but we were there before we knew it around 2:20. The other hiker came down as we arrived, leaving us to enjoy the summit ourselves. The scramble was fun and we posed for photos on the high point. The clouds were farther west, dammed up against the crest. Off towards the Teanaway the skies were totally blue. Amazing sights to all the different peaks and the beautiful blue lakes below.
All too soon we had to head down. We left the top at 3 and tried our best to zip along and make up some time. When we reached the scree traverse below the east summit we could see some rockfall coming down. It stopped before we reached it, but it still made for a nerve wracking crossing. We'd already decided to take the snow route again and got in a short, but fun, glissade from the saddle to the rocks below. The sun had gone behind the ridge now and the snow was beginning to freeze again. The steps were better, the large group kicking them in better, but it was still icy. We each slipped once or twice but stopped before having to arrest. I was very happy to see rock again.
This time we followed the cairns and boot path without losing it. Along the way Circle lake was glowing in the late afternoon light. I will have to visit this lake, it's so pretty. We kept pushing along, stopping for an occasional snack, and were back to Peggy's quickly. It was getting late when we made Cathedral pass so we had a snack and made our best speed down. Less than an hour later we were at the PCT junction and onto the home stretch. By now the rain had rolled in, making for slick rocks and roots, slowing us considerably. That last bit was very monotonous and we were so happy to see the car at 8pm. A twelve hour day!
Stats:
15.6 miles rt
4956 ft gain
6:20 up, 5 hrs down
Trip photos: http://www.pbase.com/billcat/mtdaniel/