After hearing about and reading about Mt Daniel for quite a while, we decided it was time to give this one a shot, with one key variation from the standard: we wanted to do the whole thing as a one-dayer. We figured by doing it this way we could go lighter and faster, and also maybe avoid some of the ugly bug situation we had read about...
We left Seattle at 4:30 am, and arrived at the trailhead at 6:30. After breakfast and packing up, we hit the trail at about 7:15. The bridge just after the parking lot looks near total collapse, but it is still crossable. It was quiet and cool and bug-free the whole way up. The Cathedral Rock trail is in good shape, excepting for all the horse doodoo. It is quite rocky in places too, and the horses hooves have worsened the situation by chopping up the trail and knocking loose many large stones.
Just after passing the Pacific Crest Trail (which crosses this trail) you reach Cathedral Pass, and a bit after that, as you start to head down toward the lake, where the main trail makes a big switch back, continue straight on a narrow climbers trail (this is the trail to Peggys Pond). Currently there is a sign on the ground about the trail being bad for stock, but no trail name or number. This trail undulates along the ridge behind Cathedral Rock, up and down along a very narrow track, and over and through some nasty sections of rocks and shrubs, some parts also including exposure (nice drop off the trail). The trail is not well built or well maintained, but passable to all but very timid hikers. Luckily, this part was still in shade, so it wasnt too bad, but slow and wearing nonetheless.
After completing this traverse, you arrive at Peggy's Piddle, and a bit further up, at Peggy's Pond. It took us a little less than 3 hours from the trailhead, clipping right along. From the pond, a fairly obvious but unmaintained trail continues up valley into the obvious glacial moraine, and follows a stream, up and over some glacially-scrubbed slickrock. We went up right next to the stream / waterfall, but found the going easier on the way down by staying further to the side instead. The meadows around and above Peggy's Pond were wonderful - wildflowers everywhere! And there were also lots of marmots in the rocks just up from the pond, including juveniles.
After the rock scramble, we got to snow. Decision time. The most traveled route veered left up through snow to the rock ridge, and followed that all the way around to the far side of the bowl. Another option is to veer right, and climb up a steep snow colouir. Although this looked fast and more direct, it was already 11 a.m., and we didnt trust the snow conditions on that steep narrow chute. Instead, we decided to go right up the gut of the bowl, over the glacial remains. Crampons and ice axe were key, even at this late hour, as the slope is still quite steep. We decided not to rope up, although we had brought rope and harnesses, as the glacier here has withered to nothing - its now really just a snowfield - no crevassing of any sort.
Toward the top of the steepest section, approaching the ridge, we had to help another climber down. He was having a panic attack as he realized how steep the slope was and how he was crossing above a rocky cliff band. A slip here (or anywhere along the ridge traverse on the snow) without self-arrest ability could be fatal. On up to the ridge we went, enjoying a lunch stop with views of Rainier and other peaks to the East and South, and then we continued traversing and climbing slightly over to the East Peak. We jettisoned the crampons there, and traversed on a loose rocky trail to the Middle Peak, and over snow and trail and rock scrambling ultimately to the West Peak (true summit). 1:30 pm, and we were the only people up there at that late hour! It took us about 3 hours from Peggys Pond to the summit.
We signed the register, took photos, and rested a bit. The weather was mixed, and thin clouds were swirling around the summit, somewhat obscuring our views of some of the bigger peaks in the distance, but the views were wonderful nonetheless! 2 pm rolled around - our predetermined turnaround time - and we began to head back down. We were feeling pretty wasted already, and any uphill sections, even brief ones, were really killing us.
After clearing the traverse section above the rocky cliff band in the bowl, we glissaded down to the bottom, stripped our snow gear, and began the hike back through the rocks to Peggys Pond, being whistled at by the marmots (pikas'). 1.5 hours from the summit to the pond.
The ugly Peggys Pond trail section from the piddle back to Cathedral Pass nearly killed us - we were pooped, and the sun was beating on us. Too many short and steep uphill scrambling sections for that late in the day! But we finally reached the pass, and after a short break, continued on down to the trailhead, ultimately stumbling out to the parking lot about 2 hours after leaving Peggys Pond.
What a day trip! Total of 11 hours round trip, including several stops. Its probably about 15 miles, and around 5000 feet of elevation gain (including all the ups and downs). A long trip, no doubt, but a good way to go if you want to avoid shlepping overnight gear and avoid bugs (we experienced no bugs to speak of at all).