Arrived at the trailhead (Cathedral Pass #1145) at about 5:30am and took a nap until light enough to hike without a headlamp. The road was in excellent condition, unlike in years past. The Scatter Creek ford was dry - first time I have ever seen that. Two vans in the parking lot, both apparently over-nighters.

I started up about 7:15 behind one of the van people and his dogs. Intending to get to at least Peggy's Pond and reconnoitering the path to Circle Lake. The first stream just past the trailhead had a little water in it, and the Cle Elum River was flowing, although low. The trail was quite dusty. Lakes and tarns were a bit low. Fall colors were nice, but a bit muted.

The trail to Peggy's Pond (#1175) was tricky. Narrow gravelly ups and downs, narrow rocky sections with enough exposure to be worrisome. One has to mind one's footfalls here, but it is doable, just look over the tricky parts and think it through. The terrain the traverse takes to Circle Lake from Peggy's Pond was clearly visible. It looks like higher is better to avoid cliffs and a deep ravine. The guys with dogs said as much - "traverse under the rock face". Approaching Peggy's Pond the trail splits. The straight ahead branch had rocks laid across it, but the ascending branch was extremely loose scree/dirt and in places deep powder. May wash out pretty badly when it rains.

Only one person camping at Peggy's Pond. I saw only two other hikers in the area, the guy with dogs returning to the trailhead and one who was heading for Mt Daniels. The pond was a little low, but the water was a pretty blue-green color. I started up the boot track to Mt Daniels and Circle Lake, but turned around before getting very high. Some people do either of those options in a day, but it was clear that for me either way would have to be an overnight with Peggy's Pond as a base camp. Looks like a lot of great opportunities for exploring.

It was around 32 degrees when I started, but warm later in the day, particularly out from under the trees. No heavy smoke, but light smoke in the distance to the east and southeast, and it looked like heavier smoke to the northwest over Deception Pass. I only passed two other hikers on the way down. Coming home over Snoqualmie Pass, clouds of smoke were drifting east over Keechelus Lake, and from there to North Bend the smoke was heavy enough to obscure all of the peaks and ridgelines. Sure will be glad to see it rain this coming weekend.

Bottom Line:

A had a big grin on my face all day long, although I did not see a single person over 18 miles (definitely a first for me... I thought to myself, "Did I miss the memo about a zombie apocalypse or something?") so you will have to take my word for it. Stunning landscapes and fall color, punctuated by Circle Lake which really should take the name "Blue Lake" (a deep iridescent blue) from that other one :) The lake is in a dramatic cirque (with an "infinity pool" outlet that drops steeply down into Deep Lake far below) so exploring the lake via a pack-raft provided a wonderful perspective. Tough for a day hike, although a good chunk of the distance is on the moderate Cathedral Rock access trail. An incredible "just WOW" kind of day.

Stats:

• Distance: 17-1/2 miles
• Duration: 8-1/2 hours
• Vertical: 4525 feet (cumulative; some up-and-down, so definitely save some gas for the return!!); poles strongly recommended
• Road/Parking: The road is in excellent condition as grading is in process, with some heavy vehicles and delay possibilities; there was ample parking for a late season weekday; National Forest parking pass required; it is a fairly long ~12 mile drive in from Salmon La Sac but the current road conditions make it easy
• Weather: Sunny and NO SMOKE to start, some high cloud and smoke later in the day from the northwest near Circle Lake (kind of adding to some of the pics while on the lake); temperatures 50s-70s; some mildly annoying bugs at the lake while inflating the boat
• Trail: The Cathedral Rock trail is moderate but rocky, from the trailhead up to the PCT south of Cathedral Rock; you will pass a small beautiful lake at ~3 miles; on the PCT, there is a right junction marked with a "hiker only" sign (i.e. no stock) that heads up-and-out to Peggy's Pond on the west side of Cathedral Rock; this trail is rough and difficult at times with scrambling and exposure next to a plunging drop-off down to beautiful Deep Lake far below; on this traverse, you can look up to see the Circle Lake cirque far above, the source of (a mostly dry) Spinola Creek cascading off a huge cliff above Deep Lake; from Peggy's Pond, there is a boot-path up the lower flanks of Mt Daniel, where you traverse up-and-south until you reach a corner where you can see the rocky traverse over to Circle Lake; this trail is always evident - if you are searching for the trail after a rock scramble you have gone the wrong way; it is mostly moderate over to Circle Lake with just a couple easy granite scrambles to make things interesting; the trail *descends* down to the Circle Lake outlet where there are campsites and a convenient boat launch point; the remainder of the lake is surrounded by the high cliff walls of a dramatic cirque - truly breathtaking; the lake color is unique... kind of a deep iridescent blue... it was mesmerizing, especially with the reflections (unfortunately with the shorter fall days, there is less time to linger); fall color was blazing in the alpine - I would say near peak if not already there; the Cathedral Rock access trail in the forest is less interesting, with only Devil's Club adding some fall color; I have never seen the creek flowing down Daniel's east flank just beyond Peggy's Pond nearly dry - whoa! Still come flowers hanging on here and there for additional pops of color; the views on the ascent above Peggy's Pond are expansive, from the Robin Lakes alpine just across Hyas lake (a GREAT hike that I suspect will need to wait for a return until next year), to Mt Stuart (see video); WHAT A DAY!!
• Takeaway: A difficult day-hike to a stunning destination only made that much better by getting out on the water in a pack-raft and enjoying that unique perspective; breathtakingly beautiful

10/12/22 UPDATE: Was finally able to rip the 4K video and have attached. The video covers the trail (mainly beyond the PCT junction) and the Circle Lake pack-raft.

Blog version (disclaimers)

Quick-and-dirty version

Access: Cathedral Rock Trailhead
Round Trip: 18.3 miles
Elevation Range: 3360′-7120′
Gear: helmet
Dog-Friendly: on Ares Peak

Route

1. Hike Cathedral Rock Trail past the PCT fork and cross below Cathedral Rock.
2. Take the lower trail to Mount Daniel's lower east ridge at the next fork.
3. Follow the defined trail and later cross the ridgeline on a hiker's path to Circle Lake.
4. Go west to 6920' saddle north of The Citadel and down the scree slope to Venus Lake's outlet.
5. Climb Ares Peak and cross the 6920' saddle back to the east and round The Citadel's north ridge to the east.
6. Walk up the scree slope to be back on the peak's north ridge.
7. Climb The Citadel and return to Peggys Pond.
8. Attain the west talus field from the lake and south onto the west ridge.
9. Climb Cathedral Rock and return to Peggys Pond to hike out.

Highlights

• Expansive view of Alpine Lakes Wilderness
• Closeup view of Mount Daniel from all three high points
• Mostly sunshine and solitude

Lowlights

• Bumpy drive up to the trailhead
• Dropping into the lake basins and back out

A Salmon La Sac Grand Slam! We had a North Cascades backpacking trip planned, but the recent fires forced us to make a quick plan B. I strung together some trails in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness that needed no permits so we could still make it out this week since we all already had the time off. We saw (almost) all the sights that the end of the Salmon La Sac Road has to offer!

The plan was to hike to Tuck and Robin Lakes the first day, come down and get over to Jade Lake the second night, then take the PCT over to Cathedral Pass and Peggy's Pond for the last night. Creating a sort of loop around Hyas Lake and getting up to all the alpine lakes around it. 

Day 1: TH to Robin Lake 7.88 miles/ 3,279ft+, 850ft- elevation/ 7 hours

We started at the Cathedral Pass TH, walked up the road maybe 100 feet to the Tucquala Meadows TH and started up the Deception Pass Trail. This section of trail is easy going, following up the valley and then along Hyas Lake. At the end of the meadow the trail starts heading uphill until you get to the junction with Tuck/Robin Lake trail. Count your blessings while you go through this first portion of trail, it's wonderfully maintained, and you'll be wishing you were back on it soon. This section was about 4.75 miles, and it took us almost 3 hours with a long lunch break included.

After the junction to Tuck Lake, the "trail" begins gently, but quickly starts ascending quickly and at a steep grade. Roots and rocks are everywhere, however the trail is easy to follow. As you ascend, you begin to get views of Hyas Lake from above and Mt Daniel from across the valley. At the top of the hill, you enter an old growth forest and arrive at Tuck Lake. We stopped for a snack on the South shore next to the outlet unaware of how much more difficult it was going to get. From the junction to Tuck was about 1.75 miles, and took us almost 2 hours. 

From Tuck, we went around the South side of the lake and were led on what seemed like a goat trail, but there were cairns, a faint path, and GPS confirmation the whole way. This might have been more challenging because none of us were mentally prepared for how steep and rugged the trail was, and because we were carrying packs with 4 days of supplies. The path was fairly easy to follow; if you round a corner or a rock and can't find a reasonable way up/down/around, just look behind you, you probably missed a turn a few feet back. Once you reach the smoother white rocks, you're nearly there! One last little pitch of elevation, a short "traverse", and you're on the hill overlooking Robin Lakes (there are 2)! Seemingly plenty of camping up here, no toilet though. We picked the closest reasonable spot and called it a night. It took us another 2 hours to get up here from Tuck Lake, just under 1.5 miles. 

Sunset and sunrise were beautiful from Robin. I would have liked to spend more time up here with all the work I put in to get here, but I built a busy itinerary, and we would be leaving in the morning. Trico and Granite Mountain looked like fun objectives, but I didn't have time. 

Day 2: Robin Lake to Jade Lake 9.97 mi/ 2700+, 3410- elevation/ 8 hours

The second day started with descending the trail we cursed all day yesterday. Descending from Robin to Tuck took about an hour, my Garmin tracked it 0.3 miles shorter than yesterday; maybe I took a more direct route down, maybe it didn't pick up as much noise from me standing around catching my breath. From Tuck back to the junction was another hour, and my Garmin tracked it 0.4 miles shorter than yesterday. Once at the junction we took a right, and heading North towards Deception Pass, only about a half mile away. 

Deception Pass was a busy intersection with 4 trails converging. We continued North taking the Marmot Lake trail. It began in some meadows that were a welcome relief from yesterday. We snacked on lots of huckleberries throughout the first half of the trail. A couple ponds remained in the meadows. We stopped at an open creek crossing for lunch. The trail loses a surprising amount of elevation in the first half, about 600 feet. But what goes down must go up! We started gaining elevation again on the well graded trail, first in an old avalanche field overgrown with bushes and no shade, and then in old growth forest. You end up at a junction between Clarice and Marmot, we took the left up to Marmot Lake and were there within half a mile. This portion, from Deception Pass, took us about 3 hours including all our berry picking, lunch stop, and water breaks. Marmot Lake was much larger than I expected, lots of nice campsites around too!

We continued around Marmot Lake, lots of ups and downs, narrow rugged trail, until we reached the inlet to follow up to Jade Lake. The climb to Jade starts with the steepest section in rocks. Cairns guide your path up, but it's generally easiest to stay to the climbers left once you're in the gully. The grade lessens the higher up you get. We hiked through a little meadow, past a no name lake and then crested the hill to see the brilliant color of Jade Lake. Camping was a little limited up here given the amount of people present, but we eventually found one that was suitable and outside of any of the "restoration in progress" areas. It took us almost 2 hours to get around Marmot and ascend to Jade Lake, clocked in at 1.86 miles. 

We enjoyed the sunset and dinner, set up camp, and it started to get cold. I was hoping to get up Dip Top Gap from Jade, but it was too late today to do so. We considered changing our itinerary but decided against it. Another objective to come back and complete someday...

Day 3: Jade Lake to Peggy's Pond 13.40 miles/ 3410+, 3340- elevation, 9 hours

Today was a long day. We descended from Jade to Marmot (taking us about an hour), running into all the day-trippers up to Jade; I was jealous of their small packs. And then all the way back to Deception Pass, taking about 3.5 hours. The elevation that we lost on that portion of the trail yesterday was surprisingly easy to make back up. 

At Deception Pass, we continued South, but hung right to get on the PCT and get around the West side of Hyas Lake. The PCT was pretty well graded, had more fallen trees across the trail than I was expecting, and was more a slog than anything. It did have an interesting water crossing that could be challenging early season. Tons of water running through this part of the trail, but it resulted in tons of little waterfalls. Shortly after, the trail goes through a massive avalanche debris area, it looked like it could have been from this year, all the wood was super fresh; trail maintenance crews did an excellent job cleaning up this massive mess. The trail starts gaining elevation through switchbacks after the avalanche area until you reach Cathedral Pass. The PCT portion took us about 3.5 hours, 6.26 miles. 

Once at Cathedral Pass, we continued for 3 more switchbacks until we were on the back side of the pass and found the junction to Peggy's Pond. The sign only notes that stock is not allowed on the trail but does not identify it as the trail to Peggy's Pond. This trail is rocky, rough, with ups and downs. On the way there we took the right fork at the end (what I think is the new trail), and it is very steep at the end, it dumps you out right at the Southern shore. We took the old trail on the way back and I preferred it, but maybe I had fresher legs. We looked around a bit for a nice campsite and settled on one by the North end and settled in. The short trail from the PCT to Peggy's Pond is just over 0.5 miles. 

Day 4: Peggy's Pond to Mt Daniel to TH 10.39 miles/ 2800+, 4876-ft elevation/ 7.5 hours

Since we hadn't been able to do any of the side trips from our overnight locations the previous days, I was hoping to get up to Mt Daniel on our last day. One person in our group was feeling too tired to attempt the summit, and my dog couldn't be bothered to wake up; they stayed behind for a relaxed morning at Peggy's Pond, while the other two in the group got an early 6am start to Mt Daniel. Going up what seems like the main trail along Peggy's Pond to the end of the lake, there is a trail that takes off the to the left, marked by 2 white rocks, is what we took up to Daniel. The first part of the trail is steep, going through small trees, ascending quickly, but we were feeling good having ditched the heavy packs for the first time in the trip. It quickly becomes more sub-alpine in nature, winding up on all different kinds of rocks, some small scree, some small rocks, some slabby walking. The route is really well defined. We made it up the hill and began the ridge walk, keeping on tops of the ridge the entire route. I found a few rough campsites at the junction to Circle Lake. Eventually we were able to see the East Summit of Daniel. Snowfields were still present under the summit, a well-defined route was seen traversing and then climbing the snow fields. From my memory of the last time I climbed Daniel, I didn't remember there being so much snow to cross, I only remembered one snowfield; maybe my memory failed me, or maybe this year more snow stuck around. I was nervous about attempting the snowfields since it was so early in the day, the sun just came up so things would not have softened yet and we had no traction, just trail runners and hiking poles. We decided to descend the couple of steps to the snow and see how it felt, constantly evaluating our comfort level. The snow felt fairly good underfoot, and there were some old frozen footsteps dug into the path to help hold traction. We decided to go for it. The snowfield wasn't nearly as tough as what it looked like from afar. Once on it, I felt really good and slowly made my way to the pass below the East summit. No problems getting off the snow, no post-holing, the entire snowfield was feeling solid. We got off the snow at the pass and crossed over to the other side. At this point, it's a pretty easy to follow scramble traversing across the backside of all the Daniel peaks. The only interesting part of note is right at the beginning of this section, next to East Daniel, there is a short part of this traverse that looks like there are footsteps carved into the dirt across the steep hill, where you can really only walk in those steps. At the West summit there's a large wide hill that has a rock-built windbreak. A super short class 3 scramble up the final block led up to the proper summit; solid hand and foot holds, only one large step at the beginning of the scramble. We had great luck with weather up to this point, but smoke blew in this morning casting a heavy fog over everything around us. It made for beautiful sunrise colors but obscured all the valleys. Peaks were still able to poke through the smoke, an interesting way to view the region. We stopped for a snack and started making our way back down to camp the same way we came. The snow had started to soften up for the walk back, made steps a little easier to kick it. Continued down until we reached camp where we made breakfast and started packing up. We were able to make it up in about 3 hours, took a bit of a break to soak in the views at the summit, and then made it down in 1.5 hours. 

Back to being loaded up with heavy packs, we began the end of our trip. We took the old trail out of Peggy's Pond and preferred it over the way we came up yesterday. We quickly made our way to the junction with the PCT. Stayed on the PCT for a few minutes until we hit the junction with the Cathedral Pass trail. We took this trail all the way down to the TH. Turned into a slog, we were all ready to get some pizza and beer. I tracked this section around 5 miles, made it down in 2 hours, with a couple water breaks included. Minimal water on this trail, just Squaw Lake 2 miles in, and the Cle Elum River crossing right next to the trailhead. 

I wouldn't recommend bringing any dog on a trip like this. It definitely pushed my dog's limits; lots of miles and lots of rocks. The trails here are not kind to a dog's feet; I live in Eastern Washington, so my dog's feet are pretty tough from all the rocks out here which is the only reason I felt comfortable putting him through these trails. 

The trip was a great way to see so much in the area. If I had done more research into this area, I might have planned more time around each lake to see the surrounding sights, but this trip was thrown together in a day, so we didn't expect it to go perfectly. 

Peggy's Pond has been on my list for a while.  Because it makes for a long day hike with long arrival and return commutes I had it penciled in as a good spot for backpacking but decided (wisely as it turns out) to check out the area first.  With moderate temps and good reports for the road through Scatter Creek off we went arriving at 9:30 to mostly full parking areas - it's pretty much all backpackers here.  Luckily for us some late day departures from the evening prior had opened some closer in road side spots so we didn't have to hike very far to access the trail head.  As we geared up forest rangers arrived to restock the out house and ticket all the vehicles without passes, or with the wrong kind of pass.  It's not state land folks those Discovery Passes don't work here.

The climb to Squaw Lake (respects to nAIs) was shaded and a fairly gradual, but constant climb with some rocky sections.  Watercourses are all dry in this section and beyond so water can now only be sourced from the lake and trail side ponds.  Bugs were minimal but a yellow jacket took offense and stung my partner on the ankle - we did not notice a nest or anything but a reminder that until that magic first frost we are not out of the buggy woods.  An hour later we arrive at S-Lake, it's a pretty spot but as we had miles to go so we pushed on.  The trail then alternates in and out the sun as you climb higher through the meadow section toward Cathedral Rock now looming in the not far distance.  Flowers are pretty much done but this still one of the nicest sections of the trail.   Temps increased and I started to flag finally breaking for a snack at a point that turned out to be only 100 yards shy of the PCT junction, 4 miles, 2 hours and two thousand feet+ from the trail head.

Once at the junction and onto the PCT you switch gears and it's almost like you're on a different hike.  There is still a short climb to the pass itself but there's so much to look at, open meadows with distant mountains and jaw stopping views as you crest the pass to find Deep Lake sitting thousands of feet below your now tired feet.  The waterfall crashing its way down the mountain side from invisible Circle Lake on the flank of Mount Daniel can simply not be captured. 

Dropping down from the pass we found the side trail to Peggy's Pond (marked with a ominous hikers only warning).  This traverse trail was a huge challenge for me it was only because I really, really wanted to get to the pond that it quelled the feeling that I really did not think I could do this part.  The trail is rocky, narrow with some steep inclines/declines and very exposed.  Knowing that backpackers regularly pass this section without falling off the mountain helped a bit.  We took it slowly with poles and caution.  There are two sections where class two scrambling is required, both are rocky outcroppings with slanted rocks not super high (maybe 8 feetish)  but enough that on the way out I had to ditch my pack to make the grade on one, and ditched my poles to use a large exposed root as a belay on the other (pictured).  My partner was not as phased and on our exit we followed two backpackers who soon disappeared down this section of trail so it's probably more mental than anything.

On our way in toward the pond-end of the traverse there is an obvious branch in the trail where the lower section soon enters into the safety of the trees so "done" with scary stuff we followed this route.  I had the Caltopo maps of the pond basin in detail so knew more or less that we could still gain access this way.  We passed the remnants of the cabin (mentioned in the trip description) and then always taking the most obvious trail worked our way past a lovely "hidden" tarn topping out on a grade above Peggy's Pond.  From this small ridge it was easy to see how to connect to one of the many trails that headed to the pond and we were soon passing tents and then down to the lake side for a very late lunch.  So many backpackers, some of the pot smoking type - yuck.  We did not stay long at the pond as it was a long return trip.  We followed two backpackers and exited the pond basin closer to Cathedral Peak which was the main trail and soon dropped steeply down on very soft dusty tread to rejoin the narrow traverse at the Y we had avoided coming in.

At the end of the traverse safely back on the PCT I sat to take a moment to compose myself.  This less than one mile of trail in and out had taken everything I had.  There I watched an older PCT hiker come past headed to the pass.  Moving slowly and calmly making his way on his own adventure at his own pace, and somehow that reset everything.  Now all that was left to do was cover the long miles back to the car which we did arriving two and a half hours later.

The road is in great shape just some minimal wash-boarding toward the beginning, helpful pie plate mileage markers keep track of the distance and it's plenty wide enough that meeting another vehicle is no issue.  Scatter Creek itself was an easy drive through (we have a Toyota Highlander), so much better than last year's line it up and hope for the best, and the parking was full of lots of smaller SUVs and some sedans.  The drive out was very dusty.