Great early season hikes...get to it before it gets crowded! Surprisingly, there weren't that many cars at the trailhead, and we didn't meet many people on the trail or at the lakes. THE QUICK LOW-DOWN: both trails to the lakes are snowfree, very accessible, with some very small sections of snow, nothing that'll hinder your progress. Small parts of the trail are muddy, few small stream crossing. The trails are maintained very, very well (thanks to the work crews that maintained these trails! You did a great job!) Be prepared for sudden weather changes. Be ready to refresh your soul on these hikes, YOU WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED! THE JOURNAL: Started out at 11 am under semi-cloudy conditions. Took my friend and I about an hour to get to the trail junction (a little over 2 miles) through some rather flat terrain in the forest. We chose Lake Stuart first. Not more than a half-mile from this junction, you break out of the forest and into the beginning what I consider one of the best-kept scenery in the U.S.! This view is quite reminiscent of the Maroon Bells of Colorado. Gaze at Mt. Stuart and Sherpa Peak above a lush green meadow, tall grass, a small meandering creek, and a mix of trees (firs, cedars, hemlock, aspen, etc.) The green coloration is absolutely amazing! Would someone please create a watercolor or oil painting of this area' Guaranteed seller! I'd love to come back here in the fall when the leaves change colors! Continue along the trail (mostly flat), passing by some quiet, smooth fly-fishing creeks and grander views of the Stuart Range. During this stretch of travel, the sun broke out for about 30 minutes before a furious snow flurry storm hit us for about 5 minutes. It then became cloudy. You encounter very patchy snow near the lake, but it's traversible and shouldn't be a problem. Reached Lake Stuart after 4 miles (and 2 hours) of travel from the trailhead. The sun returned! Awesome views of the magnificent mountains and valley, especially the contrast in colors. Sat on a rock at the opposite edge of the lake for some lunch. We were the only ones there the entire time. And...wouldn't you know it, after about 20 minutes, yet another flurry storm hit us! Didn't last long. Campsites seem plentiful, but the USFS will begin requiring permits next week. Left Lake Stuart at 2:30. Encountered our first group of people fishing (trout, walleye, sockeye'!) Backtracked to the trail junction and continued to Colchuck Lake. Very different hike, it's a bit steeper and you must travel over small boulders. Stop every now and then and look at the valley below you--it's so refreshing to know you're miles and miles away from civilization (especially the Seattle area!) We saw a storm approaching from Mt. Stuart and the clouds quickly filling the valley there. Amazing. Reached Colchuck Lake at 4:15 -- it's about an hour from the junction. This lake is bigger than the other one, and it's hard not to appreciate its beautiful blue-green color. Dragontail and Colchuck Peaks dominate your skyline...the scattered clouds hiding portions of these peaks add a touch of mysticism to the environment. Colchuck Glacier is amazing--we even saw a nice set of ski tracks. The way to Aasgard Pass is under considerable snow...we saw a lone mountaineer slowly make his/her way up. Flurries began to come down after 10 minutes, but it was no where near the magnitude of the one at Lake Stuart. Left the lake at 4:45 and made it back to the trailhead at 6:30. What an incredible way to spend your day! This should be on your ""must"" hike list. I've been told the Enchantments are even more spectacular. Can't wait to see it!

Decided to get a workout and try and check out the snow conditions in the Aasgard Pass/Prusik Pass area, in preparation for an upcoming climbing trip. Although the avalanche conditions were listed as hazardous, west of the crest, I thought that if I was far enough east I would be clear of the more dangerous new snow deposits. I was almost right! The Stuart Lake trail is in good shape, with spotty snow on the trail reaching 50% coverage by the Colchuck Lake trail junction. Ascending towards Colchuck Lake, the snow cover increases on the forested, northwards facing slope, until it is almost 100% coverage above 5000 feet elevation. In this warmth, the snow is melting fast, but the trail itself doesn't seem to be suffering from excessive runoff. There are 8 to 10 small blowdowns, but none that are difficult to get over. Colchuck Lake is still well frozen and the shore is buried under 2 to 3 feet of snow. The few spots that are exposed enough to be bare are not ""campable"", so it's all still snow camping. The sight of multiple fresh slide tracks down both the Aasgard Pass and Colchuck Col slopes didn't fill me with confidence, but I decided to see how far I could reasonably get. That turned out to be about 3/4 of the way to the Pass. The snow was generally in good, firm condition, but the fresh snow from last week was very wet and not attached to the base layer at all. An inch or two of loose mush at the base of the Pass wasn't much of a problem. At 7300 feet, where you have to traverse right, across the bottom edge of a stack of cliff bands and waterfalls, six-plus inches of steep,quivering, mush didn't seem very ""reasonable"". There were a few linear slab-cracks just above the route, as well, and I decided not to risk being a statistic. I spent nearly an hour sitting there eating lunch and enjoying the fantastic view - with clouds shreading across the Enchanments ""Rim"", the sun-and-shadow play was grand! The continuous rockfall coming down off of Dragontail, Colchuck, and the Balancing Rock area was dramatic, too. Getting down went fast, especially the 1000 foot glissade, but when I looked back from the Lake, there was a new, good sized slide in the main gully under the Dragontail face. Once that fresh layer either melts down, or has a chance to freeze to the base layer, it will be first class traveling conditions. Right now, a little prudence as to route selection is still in order.

Very little snow in this area. There was a nice deep packed down snowshoe track for much of the way. Probably about 3 feet of snow in the valley, but only about 2 feet up near Colchuck Lake. Rocks, boulders, logs exposed everywhere. In several spots skis needed to be removed due to uncovered logs, rocks. The clouds never cleared, so we didn't get a view above the lake, but I suspect there isn't enough snow yet for any good skiing. The snow was dry and powdery.

After a friday night of beer and bouldering on the Icicle, our party of six awoke to clear skies. Ran into town for bad breakfast food and then hit the trail. Trail to Colchuck was it's pleasurable self until we hit the lake. 3 foot whitecaps, unforgiving wind, cloud cover that really sucked. We had thought of ascending Asgaard and bagging Dragontail as in times past but the wind was cutting and the recent snows on Asgaard made the route treacherous. (Really didn't look at all inviting, even by Asgaard Pass standards) After a snack and debates of Dragontail's similarity to K2 in stature (Amazing that so many different people can have such different opinions on such a truly dumb proposition) Some people didn't like the prospect of being initiated into Asgaard under such lovely conditions SO we turned tail and, dropping into the valley, headed to Lake Stuart. The trail was untracked but the beautiful weather offered amazing vistas of Mt. Colchuck, Argonaut, and Stuart. If you have never headed up this way, do so as the view from the large valley meadow around a mile up is simple stunning. We have always climbed from the South side of Stuart and the East side from the Enchantments but we might try Argonaut from the West next year because we were so impressed and the approach looked none too bad. In the end, we trudged on six inches of snow up to Lake Stuart and camped on the West side out of the now howling winds. Thought about trying for horeshoe but we were pretty tuckered at this point. We sat out on the boulders and enjoyed the clear skies and dark views of the Stuart range. After a loads o pasta, OBAN, and vino out of the Nalgenes, we climbed into bed at 11:00 pm just as a sprinkle of rain was felt. Soon the rain sound, however, turned to the metallic of ice and it was snowing. It dumped eight inches of dry powder and the next morning everything was covered with ice with snows continuing. It was so amazing and made us want to grab the skis. The trek out was a blast with light snow and dry cold temperatures that allowed us to relax and avoid the worries of hypothermia from soggy clothes. Last bit of the trek was sunny and very relaxing. Altogether a hearty trip. Without a summit but nonetheless a good fall trip with good friends. Cold bier and chips/salsa at the cars rounded the experience out and we are already planning a winter ski trek back to Lake Stuart.

For weeks owls had been coming to our house dropping off letters with the same message, “We are sorry to inform you that your request for a permit to the Enchantment Lake basin is DENIED!” The situation had deteriorated so bad that we actually tried to go to Malwitch Lake, only to be turned back by hordes of apprentice wizards from the House of Slytherton with red caps and shoulder stripes. Imagine our surprise and delight when the friendly giant httpwwwfsfedusr6wenatcheerecreatereportshtml appeared with the news in a glittering green letter with the runes USFS on the corner. “No permits required after October 15!” The letter went on to say that there was little snow on route. A quick check of the omens from the gnome Noaa showed that the weekend of the 23-24 was predicted to be relatively clear with only the barest chance of green lightning and storms of bewitchment. The children were sent off to stay with their aunt and uncle who tucked them safely in the cupboard. The route chosen was to be first through the blackened forest to the reflecting Pool of Colchuck. Then we will climb to the Gates of Enchantment guarded by the dwarf Aasgard. The wizards Manning and Spring warned that the way was hard, steep, fraught with difficulties, and above all disrespectful. “Hoggwarts!” we replied, the route they recommend past the valley of Nada and Lakes of Snow would take us too long. Besides we had been this way before and knew it was barely passable with several feet of new snow. The next step was to pick our supplies. I checked to see if Page the Elf had finished my boots and found they were not yet ready. I promptly packed up six dead batteries for ballast. We did not bother taking our brooms for we knew a stopping spell placed on the area would prevent their use. Unbeknown to me Lynda packed her pack with Camembert, Cabernet, and Chocolate for a birthday surprise. We drove in darkness through the passes of Snoqualmie and Squawk to the village of Leavenworth without incident. The valley of Icicles was to be our intended camp for the first night. The caps were either closed or full so we silently rode through the blackened forest to the start. There we spent the night under a full witching moon. Other travelers arrived in the night and eyed us suspiciously. In the morn we started up on our way passing the black trees that bore the evidence of the curse of fire from He Who’s Name We Do Not Speak. A few years earlier this had been a beautiful forest of pine and fir with a scattering of the Golden Trees. Then he came and filled the valley with fire leaving a ring of ghost trees warning of his wrath. The path split and we dared the footlog the other path being for ponies and centaurs. The paths rejoined and we were presented with a dilemma, one path went to Colchuck Lake the other labeled Colchuck Creek. We paused and chose the lake path but noted it had changed as a high bridge now spanned the creek where before there was a nasty ford. We feared the bridge troll but drove it away with our crude spells. The way now went up, up, UP through dark forest passing a sign at 5000’ that stated “No Cauldrons Allowed”. Finally from a high rock we could see the valley and Tor Ingalls and Tor Cashmere scenes of other old debacles. The air was still and sharp as we arrived at the Reflecting Pool of Colchuck. There reflected in the celestine water were the Pass of Aasgard and the icy Col of Colchuck. To get there we must traverse the Maze of Boulders. In the maze there were paths in all directions all marked with cairns. We became separated and confused with all paths leading back to the lake but some with pitfalls and unseen dangers. At the lake we found each other and stopped for a spot of tea. While enjoying our tea, two runners in shorts passed and ran up to the pass in great haste. We lifted our packs and began the long trudge up to the pass. The shifting scree squirted out from our boots as it was three steps up for one back for a half mile up and out. A German gnome headed up toward the frozen waterfall but soon returned to the cunning path. At one point where the way was glazed with verglas, a spell was required, I pronounced the word “Thrutchalayback” and the way yielded. Arriving at the pass we were surprised by a small man in blue. He told us this is the way. Our mission had been conveyed by owl to Aasgard who aided our passage. Passing a group of climbers enjoying a Frosty Fosters we started a search for a secure campsite away from the winds we knew would befall us. We found a spot on above misleadingly named Tranquil Lake frozen solid. We had a good view of The Witches Tower. We stopped for lunch and I was surprised by the contents of Lynda’s pack. We set up camp. We continued on to the Enchanted Lakes. The first few lakes too were locked in an icy spell. We attempted to lift the spell, to no avail. Soon we passed groves of trees of gold sparkling in the sun. These enchanted trees look like evergreens but first turn gold then leave the golden needles for all to see. Clearly strong magic was at work here. We gazed at the scene knowing that each of these lakes had a muggle and a true name. The muggle names are prosaic like Perfection, Isolation and Inspiration while the true names are filled with magic like Rune, Valkyrie and Excalibur. Tempus Fugit and we had to return to camp. Clouds were building in the west and we knew the night would not be easy. A cold blast came and the stove was hard to light and slow to cook. It grew dark. We grew hungry as the rice stayed hard. Someone knew we were here and wanted us OUT. After ages we began to eat and the snow began to fall. Tiny flakes that stung in the wind. The lights of strangers approached looking for camps. They passed and were never seen again. In the sky above were lights of red and green flickering in the north. When the hot chocolate froze in our cups we retreated to our tent. Snow constantly hammered our tent making sleep difficult. When we emerged to look around the ground was white, but the moon was bright. The snow kept falling against the tent but the sky was bright. By morning only a frosting was apparent. Were the flakes only in a whirlwind around our tent' Alas, it was time to go we had to free our children from muggle custody. The way down the pass was easy as the spells were lifted. We lingered long at the Reflecting Pool of Colchuck to view the wonders around us. The sun shone brightly and we flew down the trail. Driving down we saw the devastation of that terrible time years ago when the valley was filled with fire.