Old college buddy Jared visited from Brooklyn, NY for a 3-day backpacking trip, and I was eager to rebound from our previous semi-disastrous trip (see my Waptus Lake -- Polallie Ridge report here from June 2004) , in which we lost a trail in snow and had to take a 20-mile detour. The plan was to do the Jackita Ridge - Devils Dome loop, but sans the East Bank and Canyon Creek sections so as to fit it comfortably in 3 days. We were to park the car at the Ross Dam trailhead, get a ride from there to the Canyon Creek trailhead, and have the Ross Lake boat taxi pick us up on the 3rd day at Devils Landing and take us back to the Ross Dam. But a late start, then unexpected but necessary stops, made us rather late to the trailhead, and we JUST missed our ride. We were unable to get in touch with each other due to the total lack of cellphone reception on highway 20 after Marblemount. We tried to hitch for a little while but it wasn't happening, so we backtracked to the NCNP Visitor Center in Newhalem to look over the maps and find a new trip. We thought about Park Creek Pass but since the weather was also kind of iffy, we decided to head further east and opted for the PCT north of Rainy Pass to Snowy Lakes. This really can just be a 2-day trip, but we were packed for 3 days and figured you can never have too much time in a beautiful area. Tuesday was a very cool, mostly cloudy day. It felt like winter cross-country-skiing conditions when we took our lunch break at Cutthroat Pass. We passed a group camped just above Granite Pass in a scenic spot but not near water. He said he got water ""a half mile below Granite Pass,"" which didn't really make sense bc the trail doesn't go ""below"" that pass really, and we didn't come across water after the Pass until after at least 3 miles. He might have meant Cutthroat Pass. When we told him we were going on to Snowy Lakes, he said, ""Oh, there's a parking lot there, right?"" I was like, uh, I sure hope not. It's amazing how some people venture out into the wilderness even for overnights with seemingly no clue about their surroundings. The PCT between Granite Pass and Methow Pass has several sections of VERY narrow tread in loose gravel. It's reasonably easy for non-vertiginous hikers, but the idea, asserted by the FS at the trailhead, that the trail is maintained for stock is utterly laughable. Makes you wonder why the bothered engineering the obnoxious 10-percent grade when there was no way they could maintain that many hundreds of miles for stock anyway. Oh well. Ultimately not a big deal (except maybe for the horse-riders). The turnoff to Snowy Lakes is found opposite a very nice campsite in a flat meadow before (south of) the final half-mile traverse to Methow Pass. We set up camp above Upper Snowy Lake, which turned out to be somewhat crowded with at least 3 other parties. We still had a great spot, on top of the first hill north of the lake. Setting up camp and making dinner were rushed, as it was EXTREMELY cold. Overall, this was the coldest summer hiking trip I've experienced in the Cascades. On Wednesday, we opted to scramble as far as we could up the Golden Horn. We hiked north to near the top of the ridge and then followed it to near the final rocky summit, which is of course a serious rock climb. Nevertheless, fantastic views (but again, very blustery). We went back down via the broad loose-gravelly slopes of the mountain, doing a gravel version of plunge-stepping (which, as with snow, would have been better with gaiters!). With a more leisurely afternoon available, we made a little campfire to warm ourselves. It remained very cold, even as the skies now mostly cleared for some great views and a lovely sunset. Wednesday night was so cold, there was actually frost! When I had to get out of the tent in the middle of the night, the fly door was actually frozen from the condensation. Nuts! Somehow, despite the frost, the mosquitos managed to return in the morning. They were never all that bad though, I didn't put on the DEET at all. The hike out was uneventful (but, finally, warmer). We were hoping to see some wildlife -- I had heard the area had plenty of goats and we certainly heard marmots -- but no dice. I promise Jared goats but did not deliver. He accused me of photoshopping goats into my Cascade Pass pics. Speaking of pics, they are at http://www.flickr.com/photos/jontoren/sets/72157601380978394/.

Rainy Pass Trailhead to Canyon Creek Trailhead following Trail # 2000, Trail #755, and Trail #754 8/02/07 we hiked in to Snowy Lakes on Trail #2000. Trail is in good condition. We climbed Golden Horn from upper Snowy Lakes that same day. Camped on rocky ridge west of upper Snowy Lake. Climbed Tower Mountain morning of 8/03/07. Stayed at camp overnight. Note: there were at least 17 people camped around upper Snowy Lake Friday night. Pit toilets would be a good idea for this heavily used area. The lakes are small and are the only source of fresh water in the basin. 8/04/07 left camp at upper Snowy Lakes traveling westerly cross country until reaching Trail #2000 north of Methow Pass. Hiked northerly to trail #755. Missed the turn off because the trail is not marked and the tread is faint. Note also that there are no visible signs (or readable signs) of a Horse Heaven camp at the turnoff (unless tall grass = Horse Heaven). Backtracked southerly on Trail #2000 and found a tread in the vicinity we expected to find trail #755. Followed braided treads and game trails for 700 vertical feet before finding trail #755 that took us to Azurite Pass. Climbed Azurite Peak. Camped 300 feet below Azurite Pass to the northwest on heather and larch bench. Trail #755 ended here. 8/05/07 we traveled north, cross country, following cairns until they ran out, then bush-whacked down Mill Creek in search of Trail #755 and Azurite Mine. Found intermittent faint treads, but trail is mostly gone. About 5 cairns over 4 miles of vegetation marked the way. Bush-whacked through heavy brush, slide alder, and mulberry for much of the 4 miles from Azurite Pass to Azurite Mine. Just south of Azurite Mine we dropped packs and climbed Ballard ascending the most southern stream on Ballard that descends from its southern, west facing cirque and below, to the north, of point 7890. Signed the summit register. We were the 20th and 21st people to have signed the register for Ballard since 1998. Descended Ballard back to Trail #755 and began the arduous 3.3 miles (distance seemed longer) of side hilling steep slopes, major washouts, and thick vegetation. Note: the old,wide road that leaves northerly from the Azurite Mine bunkhouse is actually trail #475 that leads up Cady Ridge. Trail #755 is shown on the map as the main trail, but #755 is overgrown and has many major washouts along it and cannot be readily found at 4,000 vertical feet while traveling north from Azurite mine. Maps show trail #475 entering trail #755 from the north east but now trail #475 is the only detectable / followable trail leaving from Azurite Mine. Mill Creek trail #755 is shown on the map to be the main trail that leads from Canyon Creek to Azurite Pass, but most of the trail is difficult to follow, or is gone entirely. After an hour of struggle in the vegetation we found a tread that was at times good, but overall very difficult to follow. We observed many signs of bear activity in the area and we saw a large, cinnamon colored bear (black bear) below us on one of the steep, sandy wash-outs we crossed. We merged with Canyon Creek Trail #754 at 8:30 PM and arrived at the Canyon Creek trailhead at 10:30. We set up on the side of highway 20 and thumbed a ride. We were picked up at 11:00 PM by two nice young men who were heading to Lake Ann trailhead. They took us to our car at Rainy Pass and we arrived at home in Seattle at 3:00 AM. Great trip. Trail #755 is in very poor shape.

This was a 3 day backpack trip up to Cutthroat Pass on the Pacific Crest Trail, Sept. 11-12-13th. Joanna was not sure she would like it. Carrying ""all that stuff"" on her back ""didn't sound like fun"" to her. She likes the North Cascades, so I picked this area for her first trip. We left our homes early but somehow it was a pretty late start, 9:45 a.m. when we started up the trail. It is a long drive up to Rainy Pass on Highway 20! The morning was beautiful, warm sun, cool breeze. After being cooped up in the car, it seemed chilly but before long we were shedding our long sleeves! The lower portion of the trail is in deep forest of mostly Doug-Fir, starting at 4,800'. Chipmunks and squirrils scurried about at our intrusion. Within the first mile, is a beautiful creek and little water fall. We easily stepped over it on large rocks. In 1.5 miles is Porcupine Creek, which can be crossed on a footlong. We simply stepped on boulders and large rocks, to make our way to the other side. I really wanted to stop and spend some time here but pressed on instead. After this creek the trail gains some elevation. Around noon we stopped for our first real break, taking off our packs at another small creek. We topped off our water bottles, and quickly had a bite to eat while enjoying the sceenery. This creek slid over large slabs of rock, like a water slide, disappearing over the hillside. A few miles further at the base of the switchbacks up to the pass is a large camp where 5 or 6 llamas were camped, along with a group of people. This was the last ""real"" water on the trail. Beyond this were only small puddles and tiney trickles. This is where the views really begin to open up! This most difficult part of the trail is also the most beautiful. The Blueberry bushes, a deep red color, made a striking contrast to the white rock glinting in the sun. The day was hot, so I appreciated the occaision cool breeze or the thin cloud that would shield the sun for a few moments. Larch trees began to appear, just beginning their golden tint, set the foreground for the rocky peaks and ridges jutting up to the sky in the background. We passed some campsites just this side of the pass. They were tempting, but we trudged upward to camp in the pass itself. Remembering the first time I saw the moon and all the stars from White Pass further south on the P.C.T. I wanted Joanna to experience that same awe inspiring moment! After reaching the pass, at 6,800'we erected the tent, had dinner with my new ""Pocket Rocket"" stove, we roamed around watching the sun set and taking pictures. Joanna has a passion for photography! I hoped if I could take her to a place that was scenic and spectacular, she wouldn't mind ""carrying all that stuff""! As the sun set it grew cold. The pass was windy, with continual gusts up valley from the S.W. which swept over the pass and down into the valley which dropped off the other side of the pass to the N.E. With so much beautiful detail, it is hard not to let this report get to long! The night was spectacular! The moon came up straight outside the door of the tent. We scrambled out to see the stars, billions of them! Teeth chattering we scrambled back into the tent! The next day we hiked further north on the P.C.T. to get a view of Tower Mt. and ""see what was around that bend in the trail"". We met 2 through hikers, who started in Mexico in May, heading for Canada! Wow, I get so excited seeing them! They just had the ""look"" of through hikers but I was puzzled by thier gear and running shoes. Then I learned they were of the new ""ultra-light"" breed of hiker. They had the same book I have, by Ray Jardine, the difference is that I read it and dream while they read it and DO it! Our 2nd night it was obvious that the weather was changeing. Clouds blew in. The wind howled most of the night. We kept our raingear handy but never needed it for the hike out. Starting early in the a.m. we dropped about 1,000' down then stopped for a long breakfast break of hot cocoa and scrambled eggs, and oatmeal. We took our time hiking out, nibbling blueberries along the way, taking pictures, and stopping when ever something called to us to investigate it. We spent probably an hour at Porcupine creek. Having not been able to hike much at all this summer, this hike was hard for me physically as well as just feeling disorganized. Yet it felt so great to be out there again! On the way home, Joanna was planning what sort of water system she wanted to buy, as well as concidering the ""ultra-light"" gear the guys had talked about. -I think she is hooked!!

Spent 5 nights in 3 trips at Snowy Lakes between Aug. 28 and Sept. 9, 2 alone and 1 w/ Jimmy. Cutthroat Pass is great. No water from before the pass to almost the lakes (5+ miles). There is camping at the PCT but also both Snowy Lakes. I camped all 3 times beyond the upper lake behind a small treed bump that hid my tent from most. Startled a few folks who weren't expecting me there. Climbed Golden Horn on the second visit-grand views from its 8366' summit but for the smoke from nearby fires. Did a little swimming (brr!).

A warm day found three other vehicles in the Rainy Pass parking lot. Plenty of water all the way up, and on top. In fact, the first crossing you come to is pretty actually pretty bad, got my boots wet. Couple of snow fields to cross. Outstanding views from Cutthroat Pass. Can't count all the peaks, and a rare look at the huge glacier on Dome. The smoke from the Omak fire was visible, as well as climbers on Cutthroat Peak. Some single camp spots. No wood, and...is that wet heather all around?...Mosquitos attack when the wind dies down night and morning. They encouraged me to leave by 7:30 am. Allow 2 1/2 hrs each way for the five mile, 2000' gain.