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The Suiattle River Road (Forest Road #26) has washed out at approximately mile post 4.5 and is blocking vehicle access to these trailheads. I wanted to share photos of the washout, it will be a decent obstacle for anyone considering hiking into one of these trails. Condition of the road beyond this point is not known.
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Did not notice the Downey Creek Trail being particularly overgrown on my recent visit, just a few slippery boardwalks and an unbridged crossing or two of some side-creeks (easy this time of year). There's some recent blowdown at the start where there are still snags from the 2020 wildfire, but the rest is in pretty gosh darn remarkable condition. The effort that went into whipping this trail into the shape is impressive. Based on the lingering debris, it's pretty easy to imagine how difficult this trip must've been before.
The journey up the creek is a treat. You won't see it often, but that's okay when there's so much old-growth, ferns, mushrooms, and wildlife to gawk at. There's also plenty of water to filter as you'd expect, and some great campsites at the junction with Bachelor Creek. There were also a few good-looking tent spots about a mile or so before. And some neat mountain views! I couldn't see where the trail continued upstream after the camp area, but wasn't looking too hard tbh.
Now climbing the Bachelor Creek Trail (which isn't signed, but easy to find), I knew from research the first leg would be misleadingly gentle. A little steep, yes, but switchbacks! Well-behaved brush! Waterfalls! Even the blowdown here has been tamed by saws for the first mile or so - whoever did this is a saint. But any hand-holding is over all too soon.
Beta from elsewhere on the net hinted that the next section, known for its brutal nature, is in better shape than usual. I'll take their word for it, because it's still *quite* tough. The problem at the moment is not so much the brush as the sheer amount of downed trees causing a way-finding headaches from time to time, with the worst bit briefly scrambling stacks strewn about like matchsticks. Maps show this trail forking about halfway through, with options for a high or low route - I somehow missed the lower path both on the way there & back, but I can attest the high route is reasonable.
It's trickier than it reads on (e-)paper, since the narrow tread constantly negotiates rocks, roots, & mud; it's never level. You can count the minutes of pleasant hiking on one hand. It had also rained the night before, so aside from slick surfaces there were several showers worth of moisture clinging to the brush, waiting for a poor sap to unleash. Waterproof gear is *essential* in this scenario. Also many, many, many spiderwebs once things dried off. (always with the spiderwebs!) It can be both physically and mentally exhausting.
Things ease slightly upon reaching Bachelor Meadows, with its gentle creek and endless ripe blueberries. I huffed & puffed up & down the pass to Cub Lake, where I camped two nights - there are several good flat spots, with an assortment of boulders perfect for a makeshift table, stool, or sunbathing lounger. I had plenty of time to explore the basin too, but note that seemingly every trail in these parts are about as steep as it gets, just short of scrambling or rock climbing (although expect to use your hands or butt-scoot at some points anyway). Some talus fields to cross as well.
I followed one bootpath around Cub & down to gorgeous Itswoot Lake - rather than the dangerously steep (imho) & boulder-y direct descent, with a good topo map I recommend going up a hill to the right and arcing left down its far end. It's through sparse woods and still steep, but relatively saner. Back at Cub, another path marched on to scale Itswoot Ridge, with its views of Dome and distant Glacier Peak. When the way splits about 3/4 of the way up, I recommend the right fork; neither way is easy, but the left-hand option climbs a somewhat exposed ledge section that felt sketchy.
Honestly I'm not sure the effort was quite worth the payoff, with my level of conditioning, although there were plenty of great views and moments - so many stars at night! To be fair, it was shoulder season and I'm guessing the basin is even nicer when everything is green and flower-speckled rather than brown, with Cub Lake stagnating. Wildfire smoke flooding in during the back half probably didn't help either. If it were me, I'd at least consider aiming for an earlier, slightly lusher time of year :-) Lake-heads in particular will be in heaven.
The most memorable moment was actually on the way back. Rounding a corner about halfway down Downey Creek, I first heard and then saw dark blobs frantically scaling a tree uphill to my left, practically dangling above the trail... black bear cubs! I briefly felt bad for startling them, but then it was my turn to be startled when I realized Mama Bear wasn't in sight. I did my best slow, non-back-turning, hasty retreat.
The undergrowth was so dense I couldn't see if they were still there, or had left, or were maybe headed my way, plus the rushing creek blotted out all sound. After a few heart pounding moments of "what do I do now?!", logic slowly began to creep back in. 'Black bears are mostly shy, I think?' 'You're supposed to make a lot of noise while in grizzly country, right?'
If it *were* grizzlies I'd have been way more cautious, but I resolved that yelling & smacking my trekking poles together while slowly forging ahead would probably do the trick, and it did. Aside from some disconcertingly hefty & uncub-like scat further down the path and distant, furtive rustling on the shady slopes above, the little ones had disappeared. Looking back, what I mostly feel is lucky for such an amazing close encounter (I read afterwards that black bear attacks in general are rare), but I thought it worth sharing anyway - we're not the only ones using these trails!
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This is an unmaintained trail for the most part but it was great for about 3 miles. No downed trees. Then as I approached the first tributary things got way overgrown. I could hear that I was approaching some waterfall but until I was literally there at the edge, I couldn't see it. The log bridge that crosses this stream looked sketchy and I couldn't see the other side because of the overgrowth so I turned around at this point. It's a beautiful 3 mile walk in the woods but after that point I can't contribute any help.
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Well, people are reluctant to acknowledge it properly on this site it seems, so I will break the good news to people:
This trail goes. It goes all the way to Bachelor Creek, and if you walk quick you can reach the Bachelor Creek intersection in 2.5 hours. Several people interested in maintaining this brought big tools (looks like chainsaws too, which are NOT allowed in Wilderness areas) to fix this trail. I have mixed feelings on it, but after getting my a$$ handed to me at Sulphur the day before for 1/2 the distance, I am relieved to be on a proper trail.
This trail is truly gorgeous. It gains a few hundred feet quickly, then stays at a mild grade the rest of the time, taking you across a steep old growth hillside and into the valley floor. What a wonderful trail to have.
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This is an incredible hike that begins to get overgrown at mile 3.5 or so.
I ran it, and could not continue running past mile 3.5 due to the vegetation that has overgrown the trail (hiking this before spring foliage comes back to life is the key to avoiding the stinging nettle mess for miles)
It would be epic to have this foliage beaten back a bit until at least the Bachelor Creek Confluence.