I've wanted to go up Granite in the winter ever since seeing a photo of the rime-ice covered lookout a few years ago. Finally I did it! I received some route and condition info the night before that cast my plan in doubt, but I decided to head to the trailhead anyway and if things looked bad I'd follow in Sadie's steps up to Pratt Mtn instead. I arrived at the trailhead fairly early to find a very stiff wind blowing and freezing my face. Not a good sign, so I loaded up more or less all the winter clothes I own, crampons, ice-axe, and snowshoes and set out. My plan was to head up the trail and hope the wind would die down. Amazingly it did! When I reached the Granite junction it was dead calm.
I'd bummed along with two younger climbers and a retired guy named Jim, who turned out to be a great companion for the trip. Something about the name ""Jim"" that must dispose people to be seriously into the outdoors, go figure. Soon we popped out along side the avalanche chute and could see our ascent route. There was a good set of steps kicked in all the way up! Less encouraging there was also a fairly significant amount of frozen blood on the snow here.
We ascended up beside the chute, taking care to stay as close to the trees as possible. The chute was filled with debris and I think I could see up higher where cheakamus hit the slab avalanche. We kept going up along behind the cornice, expecting to rise over it higher up and get blasted by an icy wind - not so! We reached the start of the exposed rocks to find sun and only a calm breeze. I'd doubled up with my thickest base layers and found myself wishing I'd worn less! Jim actually went with short sleeves and no gloves from here on up.
On the right side of the rocks the snow was softening in the sun with a nice crust that the crampons bit into handily. To the left it was fairly icy but my steel crampons still punched through without much trouble. I stayed on the snow as much as possible, but had to go onto the ice for a short bit. Up above me Jim took a short slip and cut his knuckle on the ice. We pushed up over a little rise and found ourselves out of the surface ice, but in the middle of some spectacular rime-coated trees. We slowed our ascent here to take alot of photos with the lookout now in sight. The tower itself was still coated in rime, with the ice on the west side protruding off around six inches. Plenty of icicles all over the place and encasing the stairs. We dropped down a bit onto the ridge overlooking the summer route to get a photo of the monster cornice on the east side of the mountain. Up at the top another one was curling up high.
I was expecting to be up at the top in bitter cold with nasty winds, wanting to beat a hasty retreat back down. It turned out as one heck of a nice bluebird day! Only a slight breeze, warm sun, and spectacular views and cloud formations. We stayed quite a while taking lots of photos and watching some skiers head down. Another set of prints were either ascending or descending via the ridge to West Granite, and the bowl between the two peaks was filled with ski tracks.
Eventually we started down, which was more difficult than the ascent. We picked our way down through the rocks to stay off the ice, in a few places venturing out onto it to get around some bigger rocks. The snow had softened quite a bit in the bright sun but was very inconsistent. We could go ten feet on great plunge-stepping stuff, then hit a hard patch, then back to soft stuff. My crampons were also starting to ball up, making the going slow. I did manage to fall on my butt a few times, arresting just to make sure my axe would bite. It did. Once we were off the steepest bit we ditched the crampons and worked our way slowly down the softer snow. Beyond the end of the rocks we did a very slow glissade - better than just falling down randomly. I only let myself slide about fifty feet, then stop, repeat, until were were in the trees again.
I put my crampons back on here, and Jim his YakTrax. I wished I'd remembered to bring mine. Back at the Wilderness boundary the other pair of climbers we encountered had stashed their snowshoes against the tree. Some nice looking wooden ones too. As we poked along the wind came back strong - glad we got down when we did! What a great trip!
More trip photos at http://www.pbase.com/billcat/granitemountain2